I have 91 Firebird 305 TBI and the car will start fine when cold. After driving a few minutes and not all the time, the car appears to loose power for a few seconds and then runs fine again. Once I shut the car off and restart the car it rough idles and will barely accelerate with a raw gas smell for a few seconds and then smoothes out quickly, raw gas smell goes away. I can leave the car for awhile and then the car will start fine again. It does appear to be a temp related issue.

I am looking at replacing the spark plugs and wires anyways but was wondering if any O2 sensors could cause this?

 

Have you checked to be sure that the injector pod isnt leaking? Almost sounds like its leaking fuel down into the intake if it smells like raw fuel on startup. Pull the air cleaner off after youve shut it down and see if there is fuel puddled in the TBI, or any sign of fuel leakage. Could also be the charcoal can filling up with fuel, and not purging properly.

 

or about a hundred other things.... does anybody check for error codes before they start asking questions? I've been reading a lot here mostly up in the ECM and Prom area but ventured down here and see a lot of blunt quuestions that could use a lot more information before starting to diagnose over the net.

Just my

 

I had the same problem with mine. I changed the egr valve and o2 sensor. Problem was solved.

 

I agree with eaglemark check for codes, golden what may of bein causing it on yours could be something else on his if it's running rich maybe his coolant sensor is telling the computer its cold and thats why thiers a lot of things than can cause that. the best bet is to look at the error codes than go from thier, thats my 2 cents

 

I have to agree - if you can pull the codes, that's the first place to start. If not, I remember having a nearly identical problem on 2 other cars (neither F-cars) that ended up being EGR related.

 

you can always tap on the egr valve with a hammer while the engine is running to see if the engine stops surging and smooths the idle out

 

That will work if it's stuck, but I had a car that the spring was getting weak. The normal vacuum caused the diaphragm to open the EGR all the time. Solution was to install a Tee in the vac line and create a bleeder line with a cap on it. I used a tiny drill (around a #55) and put a single hole in it. I kept increasing the size by trial & error until it was just large enough to bleed off the excess vacuum and let the EGR work correctly. (Before anybody hates on my solution, I was a college student with a very limited budget at the time).

 

Since you explained why you did it I'll give you a pat on the back for being very resourceful as a collage student!

But most guys with enough knowledge to work on their own car would just disconnect it...

 

Thanks, but I can't take the credit for it. The local dealership in Grand Rapids MI did that for me. (only charged me minimally for troubleshooting it). It was on an Ford EXP that was getting tired. He put the bleeder in and told me what I needed to do to adjust it. It took about 2 or 3 adjustments with a drill to tweek it in but the problem was solved. Much cheaper than a $100 part + installation. I've kept that idea tucked away for just such an emergency.