how do i go about removing a bolt?
t-stat bolt broke and i keep going thru bits and not getting anything acomplished

 

did it break flush in the manifold? or is it sticking out some? If it is sticking out they do sell a tool that pushes on over the stud and you can remove it most times with that. now if it is flush you want to use a center punch on it. then drill it with a small drill bit first. then a slightly bigger one. Then you can put an easy out on it. Which is a special removal tool. twist that sucker in and twist the broken bolt out. local auto parts store should have these tools. they may even be able to show you.

 

man it broke in side. cant be more than 1/2 in left of the stud. I tried the easy out method and the easy out broke off and left maybe1/4 in and was able to drill most of it away but these drill bit i've been using are crap. I am going to have to catch the bus down to lowes and buy a cobalt bit says it'll go thru stainless and hardened steel. i bought a thread insert to rethread. with

 

just keep stepping up the size of the bit til you can drill as much as possible out and then the threads could walk out. Or drill it bigger and install an insert.

 

yeah i think im going to need the insert. I hate dealing with stuff like that. i used thread sealant last time and one side comes out clean and this side breaks on me

 

well you dont need to use thread sealant on thermostat bolts.

 

Tell me about it... two of the bolts holding my 350 to the engine stand gave out last night, leaving broken bolts in the block... unfortunately I burned up my corded drill and my cordless doesn't have the power to turn a bolt extractor, so I'm still tryin to figure something out.

 

I would soak with BP blaster for as long as you can afford to given time constraints B4 removing any bolt that is not coming out easily.

 

There's no penetrating oil on earth that's gonna make drilling a broken easy-out any less painful. A cobalt bit MIGHT do it. I'd use a welder, try to stick a welding rod to the E-Z Out, and turn it backwards--hopefully twist the broken E-Z Out back out of the bolt.

I have on occasion used a hammer and chisel/punch and shattered the E-Z Out; then drilled the relatively soft metal of the bolt.

Using thread dope on thermostat bolts is rarely a bad thing--depending on the chemical used. SOMETIMES the bolt hole actually breaks through to the coolant passage, in which case either Loctite 592 or 567 are miracle workers. If the bolt hole does not break into the coolant passage, I'd prefer anti-seize to thread sealer.

 

I guess. I know ive done over 100 chevy thermostats and have never used thread sealant on any bolts with no problems.

 

i just used the sealant sine it was on there when i 1st replaced the factory t-stat. and the dumb &itch sold me a screw extractor when at home depot they had everything I needed. they sell screw and bolt removers and their Rigid brand cobalt drill bits are too good tore the easyout to shreds but struck the jacket so idk if it springs a leak only thing left is that metal putty or a new manifold.

so many lessons learned...

 

I think the problem was i went to FSM torque values last time and the 9c1 guys said it was not good that I had previously did that. crazy thing is the other side came out perfectly fine.
I did spray pb prior to 1st attempt at removal and followed with a back and for motion to slowly loosen
thats a crazy night and day difference.
idk what i will have to do if i spring a leak from that slice into the water jacket

 

My statement was specific the the bolt issue prior to insertion of the EZ out.

 

I like deep creep. i have used this since and no problems. definitely will go to my local exhaust shop and have then deal with it. now I have to decide if the manifold needs to be swapped

 

^^^^^