mitchberry

iTrader: (1)

hell no, i'm broke, so cant buy parts / haven't had time to touch it. I've been out of town every day since the last post,

so it's still broken. and my computer is still sitting by my left foot as we speak, ever since the last post where i had the bright idea to yank it out of the dash to figure out what the numbers on it were.....

the gas will probably be bad again by the time i get it running. pretty sad because this was supposed to be the dependable car that i could drive all winter instead of riding my motorcycle in the freezing weather all winter................... again.

fortunately i've been able to borrow a truck for the winter... so it's sitting in my garage getting dirty and banged up while i work around it.

alexquade

iTrader: (2)

these cars are just menstraul. thats my motto when it comes to my rs. well, mines just possessed. my radiator was only half way full of water when i last filled it and it ran fine. when i topped it off, it started overheatin! my head gaskets are SHOT. i burn an oil change in an oil change. but i have another motor i'm boutta start building so i'm not worried about that. haha. money... i know that feeling! i spent $400 in like 3 days, and i feel stumped. as to where it went. haha. i read u buy ur parts from autozone... i had a 1994 GMC sierra with a tbi, and the sensors kept blowing back to back, for no reason. and come to find out my ecm was out. so i got a new one, and within like MAYBE 8 months, i went through 4 of em. autozone kept giving me the wrong one. had to take it back, get the money back, and get one from carquest. also, quite a few people told me to quit buying anything electronic from autozone. and i have and haven't had any problems with any other vehicles. could be just the one here, though. but idk. anyway, i traded it for a 2002 grand prix a month r so later. a few swaps later, and i have my rs. ur gas goin bad, go get this red stuff called stabilizer (i THINK thats the name. i believe i saw it on the label). its used for storing stuff for a while. my dad has to use it for his generator since it stores it for like years at a time. haha. IF that can't be used on a car motor (no idea if it can r not) go buy this stuff called "HEET". it'll help with moisture and stuff. good luck!!! keep us updated!

lectric80

iTrader: (1)

The product is called Stabil and works well for short term gas stabilization. I use it in my mower and a few other things and it always fires right up the next year.

MuncherRS

Did you try changing the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor? My car did the same thing and the ect sensor ended up being bad causing the car to run rich

Martin Hensley

hey man i had the same prob same symptoms turns out it was my distributor thr plate under the spark module was bad replace distributor ill bet that will fix it

3318RS

Update.....

I finally fixed my issue. Just as an fyi I posted some time back & had a similar issue to the OP. Here is what I DID & so far (driven now for 2 + weeks with No issues) its fixed.

1. Changed the plugs (old ones were extremely fouled).
2. Changed the plug wires (the ones on the car looked good).
3. Changed the rotor in the distributor (This was F up big time)!
4. Changed the cap.....looked to be original (a lot of corrosion on the inside contacts)....over 20 years old..
5. Found a huge vacuum leak on the back side of the TBI.

Mike

rough

Nice Rs on your fix!!

Mitch,
Your cat could be blocked or plugged, tis the season for plugged cats!!

Las VegasCop

Hello Ladies and Gents.....

New member here but NOT a newb....

Yes I know this is an old thread, but here we go....

I am in my possession a friend's 1989 Camaro RS 305 TBI auto (He thinks I'm the bestest mechanic ever!!!)....and is having same issues as other million threads I looked through!!!!
Let me tell about myself a bit.....I've been involved in cars for the last 25 years or so...I have studied electronics, engine builds etc...there's nothing I can't do, well, till this thing showed up at my door step!!!!!

When warm, she will hesitate and stall at stop (red lights, stop signs etc) I went through the normal checks:

1. Fuel pump pressure solid at 11 PSI cold and driving around. I rented a fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone and drove around while the gauge was staring me in the face through the windshield...we know the fuel pump is good!!

2. Replaced the fuel filter...

3. Replaced the IAC (idle air control) ...yes I know everyone knows what that is but people in the future that pull up this thread might not know it....

4. checked for vacuum leaks by having the car idle and spraying carb/chock cleaner around the TBI.....no change in RPM....I presume no leaks!?

5. I pulled the ECM, but it seems someone already changed it to a remanufactured one so it's not original that came with the car....hmmmmmm

6. Appears the coolant temp sensor next to the thermostat has been also replaced....

7. MAP sensor looks fairly new.....all lines hooked up...matter of fact, I think someone already changed them from all rubber to black silicone.....

8. ICM (ignition Control Module inside the distributor) replaced! When I took it out I thought that was it!! It was still the original unit....

9. Timing checked.....here is the kicker....weird... I unplugged the gray connector as you supposed to in order to do the timing adjustment. I have a nice SnapOn timing light. The timing was off a lot, so I moved it to ZERO as per manuals and threads The engine started to run like crap!! I had to move it back to about 6 deg advance....Very strange!!!

10. Injectors have been replaced (not by me) and spraying, showing good cone!

11. Catalytic converter appears to be replaced (not by me)

12. Looks like torque converter was also replaced (not by me)

I have a feeling that someone was chasing the same issue and gave up, sold the car to my buddy, who in turn brought it to me hahahahahah ***!!
Anyways, I've been a Camaro lover since high school. I had an 86 red IROC, 87 Camaro 5 speed, 93 and 97 SS 6 speeds.....all were totalled in accidents!! None were my fault in the Police reports....after my last Love, the 97 I gave up!!! I went to the dark side and now I am a BMW fanatic. If anyone wants to check out my engine builds or swaps (M3 engine into an 83 E21 model) my thread is: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...0-build-thread

That's only to show ya I'm not a rookie builder, I tend to know what I'm doing...tons of experience, but this RS really got under my skin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Usually I am the one who helps and gives advice, this time I need help with this....so please give me something to go on with? I think I changed and checked everything!!! Short of blocking the brake booster vacuum line, but I presumed it's ok, since the stalling only happens when the car warms up.....again, HELP!!!

RFmaster

Well you did a rookie mistake - should have started a new thread vs. tagging at the end of the very old one! Anyhow, welcome to TGO.

Sounds like you have a car with a checkered history of repairs. Couple of things to check.

1) If car stalls at idle but runs kinda fine above idle I would check ignition system. One of the more insidious failures is a broken reluctor magnet in the distributor. We have seen a fair share of third gens and C/K trucks that use small diameter dizzy with very rusty reluctor rings and missing-broken magnets. Basically reluctor coil gets induced voltage on its winding as rotor rotates. Missing or rusty ring will screw up this pulse train. Since dizzy is in the back of the engine bay it is a royal PITA to inspect reluctor state.
2) check spark plug routing and order

//RF

Las VegasCop

Copy....but to answer to your first statement
It's not a rookie move to revive an old forgotten thread..why? Because people involved in it still have it saved so when a guy like me posts, everyone gets an email!! Smart, huh?? This is at least a 3 year old thread without a happy ending....tons have happened with people's experiences and advancements.....I was hoping to dip into that
Now, Vegas is a very hot environment...no rust here sir.....

When I took dizzy apart, oh yeah, the cap and rotor again appeared to be brand new!!! All internals seemed in perfect shape.....I am planning on taking a trip maybe to the junk yard and grab me another ECU and dizzy just to compare, ya know???? Gotta check those magnets.....

And I thank you so much for bringing this up! Since the ICM was still original, it would be safe to presume that no one messed with the distributor all all, just the cap n rotor part????

Las VegasCop

So I guess my replies without quotes have to be approved by the moderator....Lordy....

Las VegasCop

So I presume no one on this thread had resolved this issue??? I can't even tell you how many threads is out there ref the stalling when warm at a stop light.....What the heck is the problem with this 3rd Gen?!?!?!?!?!!?!?

So I've also noticed the engine temp gauge go up all the way with hard acceleration!!??? Sooo strange cause as fast it it goes up, after deceleration it goes down to about 190....Never seen anything like it!
I checked all wires in the engine compartment....nothing broken, frayed or naked....so what gives?!?!?!? hahahahah I gotta laugh cause what else can you do?????

What about EGR??? Would that cause the issues??????

RFmaster

A leaky EGR could cause rough idle and stalls. It is easy enough to verify. Tougher to diagnose is a leaky intake manifold gasket where intake port sucks fumes from the lifter valley. Rare but it happens.

Instrument cluster gauge runs of a separate sending unit. Check for loose grounds and incorrect part used as a previous replacement. OE PN is 14043275 after market parts are known to give false readings, but loose grounds can contribute to weird gauge behaviors.

On timing - someone (probably) installed incorrect replacement balancer- pointer combination or the outside ring have slipped. You'll have to find TDC on Cyl #1 to validate balancer TDC mark. OE timing chains stretch over time and miles.

Las VegasCop

It was the EGR !!!!! Engine runs like a champ.....no more stalling at stop lights!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!