My car was running great until today. I started it, the CEL came on and it is running like garbage. It takes several tries to get it started. Sometimes the injectors don't fire, as if it is not getting a reference from the distributor.
I checked the codes, and the 42 is est, and the 44 is o2 sensor lean. I am not sure if the two are related. I haven't had a chance to do much troubleshooting with it.
I drove it on the highway, and it runs ok over 2500 rpm. But anything below that and it falls flat on its face. I can give it gas and it just feels dead.
I also noticed that the torque converter is not locking up, possibly because it is not getting its reference from the est system. I plan on swapping out the ignition module with a new one, and I was also thinking it might be the pick up. It is not an expensive piece, but I would have to pull the dizzy to get it out.
Any advice where else to look?
I am going to do some looking around at the wiring around the distributor also.

 

I would replace the ign module first. Use a Delco if possible. It can be checked at the auto part store. The 02 sensor may be seeing a misfire and reading excess 02. TC not locking up may be another symptom of the misfire.

 

42 can be triggered by the magnetic pickup coil. My 82 did it but never did what you describe. mine was carb'ed though but it missfired heavily and sometimes felt like it was running on anywhere from 4 - 8 cylinders and bad fuel smell.

 

I ordered both the pick up and the module from Rock Auto. I will be swapping them soon. I will let you guys know what happens.
I had a code 42 on the car years ago, and changed the module. It did resolve the issue. But the symptoms weren't as bad.

 

Just an update - I installed a new pickup, module, cap, rotor, and wires. I set base timing to 6 degrees. The car starts right up and idles fine. But when I drive it, when I get on it it falls flat on its face - it feels kind of like it is not getting fuel.
I am not discounting what I did, because the car actually starts and holds a good idle now.
But I am starting to think there is a fuel issue - possibly a weak fuel pump. I put a new fuel filter in it. The old one seemed fine though.
I bought a TBI fuel pressure gauge and adapter from Jegs and it came in too late today to check fuel pressure. So I am going to check it this weekend. I know I am shooting for fuel pressure around 12 PSI. But what pressure is considered too low for the car to run properly? What should the TBI injectors look like when giving it gas? I think the fuel pattern looks a bit weak.
Also - what are the symptoms of low fuel pressure?
Anyway - any thoughts and experiences with this are appreciated. I will let you guys know what fuel pressure I get. I have a feeling I am going to be installing a fuel pump soon - sure not looking forward to it.

 

Make sure you check the fuel pressure between the two throttle bodies as the regulator is in the passenger side TBI IIRC and checking before the TBI won't give you an accurate reading.

Might be a pain in the **** to get that fuel line off that runs between the two TBIs. Mine ended up twisting as the nut wouldn't break loose from the line. I just replaced with high pressure fuel line and high pressure fuel line clamps and no issues many years later. If you have to replace like I did, don't use low pressure carb stuff, that is just asking for trouble over time.

You also want to see what kind of pressure you get at idle and kicking the accelerator linkage to put a load demand on the fuel. It should drop under load, but not a ton. If you had 10-12 psi at idle and it fell a few pounds will under load you are probably ok. Less than that and your crossfire will not be operating to full capacity and you should consider a new pump.

Right now I have 6 lbs at idle and it drops to near zero under acceleration. I can drive it around town, but after about 10 minutes of driving at 70 mph it will literally stall dead. It also barely gets out of its own way to get moving with the pressure that low.

It doesn't idle rough or anything like that, just doesn't accelerate and like I said will stall out at highway speeds as it can't keep pace and probably overheats and just can't put out enough fuel.

That is my experience to date anyway.....

I know I have to replace the fuel pump, but am trying to complete a 9 bolt set up with PBR brakes so I can do a swap at the same time and kill many birds with one stone. That way can address the fuel pump, add a slightly stronger rear end and have brakes that actually give me a brake pedal with emergency brakes that can actually hold or stop the car! lol

 

DCS crossfire diversified solutions sells a line between the two TB's with FPG adapter soldered in.

Personally i would run a line to passanger window or have passanger hold the FPG while you do a hard accelleration. I dont believe it should read under 12 lbs in any case unless the FP is set to a lower #. I would replace with a TPI pump(if needed) and set to 13 lbs.

 

All good points.....

 

I tried getting the DCS gauge - it is backordered. I have to use the one I bought for now. It might be tough finding a gauge set up long enough to read in the car unless it is home made
This is what I bought -
http://www.jegs.com/i/Sunpro/885/CP7817/10002/-1
Hopefully I will be able to find the results I need without driving the car. I think it will be low.
Good point about the line between throttle bodies - I don't think they have ever been off. I will be careful with them.
My symptoms are exactly like n1ffer has on his car.

 

yes homemade and temporary. very temporary. You can use summit fittings and summit push fit hose. You could buy a foot of hose at a speed shop as they have bulk. I did. thread size of TB I am pretty sure is on Z28boy.com. Not sure if CF is same as standard 305 TB unit. Might take TB to speed shop with you. I might have it at home on my parts order list when I converted CF to XRam

feed is 14 mm return is 12mm

 

I have an old gm fuel pressure tester that threads into the fuel outlet port of the passenger throttle body and into the inlet of the driver side. Basically it is the same thing as the DCS piece but with flex hose instead of the solid line.

Pretty sure you will need something like this because you still need to pass fuel through it to feed the other throttle body.

Take a look again at the DCS version, it is different than what you purchased. I can take a pic of my tester for reference as well if you need it.

 

The tester I purchased is just an add on between the female port of the throttle body and the fitting. It adds a testing port. Fuel pressure still flows through it like normal. The port is like those found on later port injected motors. The gauge also has a flow through feature - the plastic line gets put into a bucket and fuel flows through the gauge so an accurate reading can be attained. I think it should work good.

 

This is the important part of the gauge that adds a schrader valve for testing -

 

Do you have a part number or link for that connector?

 

That should do it then by what you are saying and showing. I don't think you should worry too much about testing the pressure while driving. I did mine under the hood, in park, e-brake on and wheels chocked.

Just flipped the accelerator linkage and was able to see the pressure drop....

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Sunpro/885/CP7817/10002/-1
This gauge comes with the adapter. I will let you know this weekend how it works out.

 

Guess who's doing a fuel pump. This guy - that's who!
That fitting I bought did not work out. It is too big to fit anywhere. I wound up buying a few fittings in Home Depot and tapping into the rubber hose going to the fuel filter. I got a consistent 5 PSI at idle and it would drop down to 4 under load.
I am going to install the 85 Vette fuel pump. So before I do that I am going to rebuild the throttle bodies to make sure the diaphragms are up to handling the added pressure. I probably won't get to the pump until spring, as I have to do it outside.
So - I guess I won't be updating on the results any time soon.
In the mean time, I hope DCS gets those gauges in stock so I can install at the same time.

 

Another thought on that adapter between the TB's is to call a carb shop and see if they can make one for you or a company that deals in hydraulic hose might do as well. I would do a screen shot of the DCS product and show to them. I have not touched CF for quite a few years but why could you not just cut the stock line between the two TB's and use a compression fitting with appropriate fittings on each side of the stock line with a gauge between? I use a C fitting on my stock CF lines at AC compressor when I first added the XRam. It was an Aeroquip mfg fitting.

 

Even if you go with the TPI pump, you really can't go much above 20 psi after the fuel pressure regulator without blowing out the tbi bladder.

You should be able to do it with the appropriate fuel line and clamps rated up to 30 and a fuel gauge.

You could also put a remote gauge in the interior with an aftermarket gauge and a fuel isolator under the hood to feed it. That way you can always see it!

 

I want to set pressure at 12 PSI. I am hoping that DCS gets those gauges in stock again or I will have to get creative

 

I always have a lot of hope with DCS and check their website for part availability about twice a week. The new intake has been a work in progress for well over a year and the balancing can has been showing coming soon for at least four months now.

If I remember correctly, they are a one or two man operation that started out with their own cars and took a leap to start a business that would cater to the crossfire crowd.

It is a tough step starting a new business and they are probably growing in the pain stage at this point.

They certainly fit a niche and I wish them the best for themselves, but also for me selfishly because they have some pretty cool stuff and I want it!!! lol

Good luck on the fuel pump change. That is my winter project also, which has now morphed into a 9 bolt swap with PBR rears and to complement the PBR rears, I have a full PBR front to match waiting to install.

 

I have the original Renegade intake from DCS. I bought it but never installed it. I was hoping to build a 383 for it, but got sidetracked with the paint and interior work. Maybe someday...

 

I never updated this thread. The fuel pump was bad on the car. I changed the pump, upgraded the intake, upgraded the exhaust, changed all the vacuum lines, detailed the engine bay, and she runs great now.