I changed my egr valve after a failed emissions test and the guy suggested I change it to pass next time.well I did then I went to do round two at the emmision shop cut car off it sat for ten min or so and did my emmision test and passed but I cut the car off and it wouldn't start again..

 

You keep cutting your car off, and you'll have to sharpen your knife.

 

I'm sorry don't understand.

 

a failed or misinstalled EGR valve wouldn't prevent it from starting, it'd just run like crap. something else must be wrong.

 

OK I understand the reason I said that was because it didn't start falling on its face till I changed out the egr valve I Assumed it was a vacume leak see the thing is if I unplug the vacume like from the MAP sensor it idles fine for 15 seconds and then leans out and dies if I plug it back up it won't idle for crap so that made me think of the egr selonid

 

Did you get the right EGR Valve?? Read this.

NEGATIVE BACKPRESSURE EGR VALVE

The negative backpressure EGR valve has the bleed valve spring below the diaphragm, and the valve is normally closed. The negative backpressure valve
varies the amount of exhaust gas flow into the manifold depending on manifold vacuum and variations in exhaust back pressure. The diaphragm on this valve has an internal air bleed hole which is held closed by a small spring when there is no exhaust backpressure. Engine vacuum opens the EGR valve against the pressure of a large spring. When manifold vacuum combines with negative exhaust backpressure, the vacuum bleed hole opens and the EGR valve closes. This valve will open if vacuum is applied with the
engine not running.
RESULTS OF INCORRECT OPERATION

With too much EGR flow at idle, cruise, or cold operation, any of the following conditions may occur:

• Engine stops after cold start.
• Engine stops at idle after deceleration.
• Vehicle surges during cruise.
• Rough idle.

If the EGR valve should stay open all of the time, the engine may not idle. Too little or no EGR flow allows combustion temperatures to get too high during acceleration and load conditions. This could cause:

• Spark knock (detonation).
• Engine overheating.

 

Ok cool that clears up some things but I have a pos. Egr valve and I've changed IAC valve ignition module egr valveand my map sensor will the egr solenoid make it not idle that's the only thing left to change besides spark plugs

 

I'm trying to tell you that "cut the car off" is a poor way to phrase "shut the engine off."

 

Ok well I see what you mean

 

sure, if it's leaking heavily due to being stuck open

or perhaps connected backwards (but i think that just bleeds off vacuum @ the manifold for a small vacuum leak)

of course dont just go replacing it, test it with a vacuum pump like a mightyvac or something. if it's leaking you'll know real quick.

 

Ok sure will do that

 

Well turned out to be the fuel pump after all thanks for help guys the connecting hose was eroded and was leaking fuel back into the tank and or ducking air though the hole in the rubber connector never would have guessed that