Hello
My lo3 305 tbi blow so I got a lo5 350 tbi swapped it in.
I used the same computer that came from the 350 . I'm also using the same intake from the 350 just pulled the 305 an used the connectors. The only thing im using from the 305 is the cam an lifters i just installed about 2 weeks ago .I did a rebuild on the 350.
Anyways it runs vary good. It does have a small sputter/ miss
Like ---miss---miss--- you get it? Vary small. Also it tried to stall at a light. I got home an it sat for about 4 hr I left again. When pulling out my drive way it dyes no warning nothing just stopped. It started right up an was good. Floored it she burned all the way to the stop light. Took off from the light she pulled side ways. So I think it's something dumb I'm missing.

Keep on mind every thing on the motor is new.

 

Connect a scan tool and look at the data stream. Short- and long-term fuel trim, O2 crosscounts and voltage, etc.

What is the fuel pressure?

Power wires to distributor/coil in good condition? Plug wires, cap 'n' rotor in good condition?






When it was my '88 K1500 that had a misfire, the problem was the magnets in the pickup coil. They often crack, reducing the strength of the magnetic field. Eventually, the pickup coil doesn't provide a proper signal to the ignition module. I needed a distributor mainshaft to fix it, although a replacement distributor would also work--if the replacement is in better condition than the faulty one.

 

Dizz is not that old maybe 3k miles on it. Cap ,button, wires an plugs are new. Wires from coil to dizzy look in good shape . I tryed both dizzy a an still does it. I fixed some of the stalling my tach was not reading right so I turned down the idle witch made it stall. I'm thinking it may be the plugs I was thinking they took autolites 26 but I picked up 24s by mistake. The old 305 had the crapy bosh plugs.

After I fixed the stalling by the idle screw it will now some times sputter at a light like its was trying to stall but picks its self up.
Also some times when starting its hard to start hot or cold. Like the battery is dead or other times it will just fire up. I played with the timeing an get it right but after I turn the car off then try to start it up its like the timeing was reset. Also as for fuel it's at 13psi.

 

AC Delco CR43TS, Delco cap, Delco rotor, Delco wires.....Not cheap parts house stuff...Also you say you used the 350 intake, but what about the injectors, knock sensor and knock module?

You set the timimg with the EST timing connector open. 0* or TDC. You might be able to tweak it up to 6* or so for more torque.

 

350 injectors 350 knock sensor
I did not set the timing with it unplugged.

 

Your timing is off then. That wire needs to be disconnected to properly set base timing. All of those symptoms could be the direct result of your timing being off.

 

I don't have a timing light. Do u think it will help if I set it by ear with the wire off or u think it will mess it up more. I'm good at setting it by ear

 

Don't open the hood until you get a timing light.

 

Ok I won't mess with it till I get a light. Lol

 

I think I found out what maybe wrong with it. I have been driving around to an from work car ran good no stalls after I bumped up the idle some still had the small miss.

Well to day I was coming right down the street the car stalled an would not start. Well I popped the hood took the air cleaner off an seen the injectors where not flowing gas when trying to crank. So I took the gas cap off an turned the key no fuel pump sound. So I got my hammer beat the bottom of the tank then the top where the pump is . I then turned the key the fuel pump made sound. But the injectors where just putting out a small amount of gas no start. I ran home to get the truck to pull it . got back to the car an just tryed it one more time this time it started after a few more cranks ran good got it home let it set for an hour went out it started right up.
Won't a car run like crap like its running out of gas befor the pump goes up? This didn't it just dyed like you turned off the key.

 

You could have saved a lot of time, and maybe not have been stranded.

 

Fuel pressure was at 12 psi. It stalled about a 2 min walk from my house

 

Were you at highway speed, accelerating hard, when you took the fuel pressure measurement? It's important to place a high demand on the pump so as to assure that the pump is delivering pressure AND VOLUME; and volume is not measurable separately without serious equipment.

 

When I checked it I was idleing in the yard . Would reve it up an hold it then let go.
Now when it stalled today I was at a stop light when I was taking off about 15 mph that's when it stalled an the pump would not come one.
Now a few hours ago I stared it up an went to the store an back no prob was running better then befor no miss. It started doing the small miss on the way back.
So I think that pump may be weak at times idk any ways I'm going to replace it this week end.

 

Don't forget to verify proper power and proper ground to the pump via the vehicle wiring harness. You're looking for loose connections and voltage drop, including voltage drop from battery to pump relay, voltage drop through the relay, and voltage drop from relay to pump. Pay special attention to the wires inside the tank as they're well-known to corrode and reduce voltage/current to the pump.

In-tank fuel pump wire from my 120K mile Lumina compared to the new wire, as an example:

 

Well I will get the new pump that comes with the wires an hoses from the tbi to the tank.