Hey yall!!!! I'm about as green as it comes to tuning. I have ebl flash for my fresh built 1998 vortec 350. I'm not sure where to start with tuning. Engine is 1998 vortec 350 mild port and polish over sized valves, zz4 Cam, ls7 lifters, 1.5:1 rockers, edlebrock rpm none air gap intake, 1" carb spacer polished, tbi unit, injector spacer 350 55lb injectors, flat top 4 valve relief Keith black pistons, tip fuel pump, external fuel pressure regulator. Trans is a t56, aluminum drive line and stock 4th gen rear end. If anyone can help I really appreciate it!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!

 

350 injectors are 61# fwiw. You are going to need fuel pressure in the mid 20s to feed that monster. No mention of your exhaust setup but I am hoping every last piece of your L03 exhaust hit the scrap pile.

 

Start with the EBL_F_3000 BIN as it has the Vortec spark tables. Change what is required, such as disabling the TCC logic (this enables the stick logic), the BPC vs VAC table for the engine displacement and fueling (use the EBL Utility).

Along with the other items mentioned in the Intro to Tuning Part 2 on our web site. Flash it in and see how it runs. Proceed with VE Learns and tweak as required.

Note that V2.4 of the EBL Flash firmware will control the T56's reverse lockout solenoid via the TCC output pin (A7).

RBob.

 

I stand corrected on the injectors thanks!! The exhaust is hooker shortie comp headers, Doug's y pipe, 3" mandrel bent piping to a hooker aero chamber. Should be pretty good for my set up. Thoughts??

 

Awesome thanks rbob!!!! I appreciate it!!! This is the last step in my build. Will the 350 injectors work for my build??

 

How exactly do you turn off tcc?? Or do I need to sense I'm running a t56?? My reverse lock is not wired to anything.

 

1) Which version of TP do you have?
2) You need XDF definition file from Rbob distribution disk in a working directory for TP.
3) TunerPRo is NOT used to upload bin files from your PC to EBL board. TunerPro is only used to edit values in BIN files. Once you are done with editing upload BIN file to the flash memory in the EBL you'll need to use EBL WhatsUP program. Display->Flash will bring a screen which is used to flash BIN files into EBL. RFM

//RF

 

Awesome thanks! I got it to upload the correct bin finally. I've been playing with the values of a few parameters. If I set the temp for egr activation to the Max it shuts the egr system right? My car has no emissions controls or provisions for them.

 

Yes, that will disable EGR. You also need to disable CCP purging solenoid and Lean Highway cruise until you get your baseline tune dialed in. All of this is covered in tuning pages on Dynamic EFI site.

//RF

 

Un-check this flag:

Option Word 2 - Bit 7 - TCC

That switches the ECM to use the manual transmission logic. Which changes the TCC output pin from running a TC lockup to using that output as the reverse solenoid lockout.

RBob.

 

Should work out pretty well. One of the guys in the carbureted section built a car that his daughter ran 12.90s in with factory L98 TPI style manifolds and cats with a muffler swap. His motor was the 250K L31 out of his GM Truck with a take-out ZZ4 cam, a low rise Q-Jet intake and I believe a CCC Feedback Q-jet. While shorties and a single 3" exhaust will ultimately hold back your ultimate HP potential and track times it should work quite well on the street. You will likely have better scavenging in the low-midrange with the Y-pipe and 3" system than you would with true duals and that equals more torque where you will be driving 95% of the time. With the Aerochamber I bet it sounds wicked. I had dual Aerochambers on my 350 Vortec in my Express van but pulled them off because they were too loud on 5 hour highway runs with 6,000+ lbs being towed behind it.

 

The 350 injectors will work fine, you will just have to bump the pressure high enough to support the 350-375 HP your setup is likely making. I would do the calculations for 350 HP @ .45 lb/hr/hp bsfc and 85% duty cycle.

350hp/2injectors*.45 lb/hr/hp bsfc/0.85 dc = 92.647 lb/hr or round to 93 lb/hr

SQ(93 / 61) * 13 = 30.2168 or simply round to 31 psi

The 61# injectors will need to operate at 31 psi to provide you with 93 lb/hr of flow that is needed to keep you under 85% duty cycle at 350 HP.

 

Well my goals for the car are to run 13s in the 1/4. I'm also located in Utah so I'm at around 4000 feet. Thanks for all the input!!

 

Thanks fast355 for the input!! I figured I would have to bump the fuel pressure that's why I did an external fpr vacuum ref and a tip fuel pump. How much pressure can a tbi unit handle tell it starts leaking???

 

Awesome thanks!! I was trying to figure out how to disable all the emissions garbage. Anything I need to do with not having air injection????

 

Assuming you have the thing resealed with new o-rings and gaskets and a new regulator. GM ran the later 454 TBI units and the Marine TBI units at 28-32 PSI. I have a 2" TBI unit off of a 502 Marine engine that had high pressure 61# injectors in it. In an older setup of mine I ran the factory regulator to 35 PSI for over a year without failure. In the mid 30s I would suggest moving over to a block off plate for the factory regulator. I have run 61# injectors as well as high pressure 46# injectors at 50 PSI without issue other than having to mess with the short pulsewidth compensation tables to account for the slightly slower opening. When a 61# injector sprays at 50 PSI it looks like a fire hose compared to what they look like at the factory 10-11 psi.

 

Thats going to be a fun challenge. In the warmer months when you factor in density altitude it is likely to be over 7000 ft DA. When you account for the hot underhood temperature it will be more like 10,000 DA. You will need to concentrate on finding a way of getting your engine air from outside of the engine compartment .

 

Just a spectator, but a very interesting, educational thread.

 

I'm running a 6" functional cowl hood to help reduse heat from building up under the hood. Also for air cleaner clearnance. Should help out a bit

 

How would a cowl-induction hood reduce heat build-up?

If the base of the windshield is a high-pressure area (it is, that's the reason cowl-induction hoods actually work) then any additional air brought into the engine compartment that isn't used by the induction system...is excess pressure inhibiting airflow through the radiator.

The rubber seal at the back of the OEM hood is there to prevent air from backing-up under the hood, which would do the same thing--reduce air flow through the radiator.

 

To let heat escape. If your moving air being pushed through the radiator can escape through the cowl versus being trapped under stock hood.

 

The cowl is a high-pressure area. Radiator heat isn't going to escape through a high-pressure area. The whole reason that cowl induction works is that fresh air is entering the back of the engine compartment BECAUSE IT'S A HIGH-PRESSURE AREA.

The original cowl-induction hoods were sealed to the air cleaner to prevent all that air from entering the engine compartment and screwing-up the air flow through the radiator.

 

Doesn't really make sense to me I'll do some research

 

Think about it further...
Where is the pressure the highest? Directly in front of the rad or in front of the windshield? I think it's a safe bet, especially with a laid back windshield like on a 3rd gen, that there's a significant difference in pressure between the two areas. The pressure is most certainly higher at the front of the rad.

Now if you are to seal the carb to the cowl, you eliminate the air pressure differential between the front of the vehicle and the windshiled in terms of air flow. The air being rammed through the rad at 70 mph (and the subsequent pressure that builds up in front of it) passes through it and escapes through whatever route it would take without a cowl. The windshield then acts as the high pressure reservoir for the intake.

I've seen the effects of the open cowl and the way the rain behaves on the windshield when at highway speeds. (My carb is not not sealed to the cowl). There's definitely air moving out from under the hood.

 

That's what I was thinking, tho I've never ran a car with a cowl hood. I did some research on this topic, all my findings say that cowl hoods make a high pressure at the windshield and with a sealed carb or tbi unit it will allow for cool high pressure air to enter the carb or tbi unit. Sort of like a cold air intake. But with my cowl being 6" tall I have a hard time understanding how it won't let air flow out from under the hood versus into it. Guess I'll find out when I get her out on the open road.