OK here is the skinny : all new sensors , new IAC, new TPS, new distributor, new ICM x2 , new coil, new ECM , new fuel pump, new fuel filter. noid light checks , voltage checks , no check engine light. runs 30 seconds then shuts down. STILL BEING A GIANT PIA!!!!! ready to pull hair out and take hammer to all fuel injection parts and buy a carburetor ! but wanted to check here first before I did. trying to retain the tbi but man I could have bought a carb and manifold and distributor and been down the road cheaper than all the above at $50 - 60 bucks or more for each part! hate for all that money to just go down the drain.

 

Connect a scan tool and a fuel pressure gauge and see what's wrong. Way better than butchering the engine bay for a carb.

Then again, if you'd connected a scan tool and fuel pressure gauge BEFORE buying all those parts, you'd have probably found that most of them were still serviceable.

 

Might need a throttle body rebuilt kit. Ohm your injectors, check their spray pattern. May need new injector seals, filters, and/or FPR diaphragm. It sounds like it's either starving for fuel or air. Good luck.

 

Map sensor? Egr stuck open. Egr solenoid stuck? Scan it and report back

 

I have a 91 camaro. I have to prime it to start once started it runs on drivers side tbi. I checked ohm on injectors and was 1.5 each. Did the battery test injectors clicked. Used a noid lite and no power to thepassenger side injecter. Once running it stays running on one injector. I have noticed when I try to start the car it is sometimes dead and won't turn over but if turn the wheel and keep turning wheel it will start only when primed. Any solutions?

 

Why are you derailing this thread instead of starting your own thread?

1. Find out WHY you have no power to the passenger side injector. Trace the wiring--that thing should have power whenever the key is in the "on" or "crank" position.

2. Find out WHAT is wrong with the fuel pump, because turning the key to "crank" should prime the fuel system. (Unless you're pouring gas down the passenger-side throttle body, since that injector isn't working the only time it's going to get gas is when you provide it by priming.)

3. Are you saying the engine won't crank unless you turn the steering wheel, or that the engine cranks but won't start unless you turn the steering wheel? If it won't crank, the entire wiring harness from ignition switch, through the neutral safety switch, to the starter "S" terminal is suspect. I still don't understand how turning the steering wheel would make a difference. Perhaps the linkage from lock cylinder to ignition switch isn't adjusted properly.

 

the car was a basket case under hood when i got it that's why all the new parts, injectors are also new throttle body rebuilt, no codes I'm guessing maybe because it hasn't run long enough to begin with? O2 sensor is also new and not the cheapie. in fact most of the parts are delco

 

"MAP" sensor I understand not its real name is also new. basically if there was a plug for a sensor there was not a sensor there when I started out. fuel pressure 12psi , EGR and related apparatus is new.

 

Also I used a bypass module and removed the VATS, its a dual mode bypass module.