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This thread is about crossfire intake manifolds and the engines they attach to, and you're unlikely to get a crossfire manifold to bolt to OEM Vortec heads, or cover the extra-tall Vortec ports.
Sure, you can weld and kludge the manifold and the heads to make it all fit...but most folks wouldn't.
It's actually not hard at all. Double stack some intake gasket, drill the heads or the intake for the respective bolt pattern, and it works....good. I know this b/c I'VE DONE IT.. (84 4+3 is right; it was on CFI-EFI's car)
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Last edited by Tom 400 CFI; Sep 12, 2022 at 09:21 AM.
Thats what die grinders are for. Porting the base makes a HUGE difference on both 305 and 350 cars. My current LU5 (305) T5 T/A is running 14.30s with a ported base, stock cam, stock 416 heads, 3.73s, shortys and 3” exhaust. I average 18mpg city and 25mpg highway with an 8746 ECM. Daily driver, and reliable as can be.
That is very impressive for a bolt on stock 305. That's L98 territory.
That is very impressive for a bolt on stock 305. That's L98 territory.
That's pretty standard for a properly set up CFI. The factory set them up way, WAY too conservatively and thus, they respond really well to very little work.
I put a mild cam, edelbrock intake, 650 Holley and headers on an LG4 Formula back in HS and only mustered a 14.8 My 91 Z28 LB9 ran a tick better bone stock 14.76
I put a mild cam, edelbrock intake, 650 Holley and headers on an LG4 Formula back in HS and only mustered a 14.8 My 91 Z28 LB9 ran a tick better bone stock 14.76
That's something. What was your MPH?
I did a cam ONLY, 160 stat, timing, no fan and no mufflers in my LG4 and went 15.3@85. That cam chopped almost a second off the car's time (16.2 before the cam)....but I'm sure the stock exhaust manifolds and Y were killing the thing! But if I saw you go 14.8's in an LG4 auto, back in the day? I'd be pretty impressed.
The cool thing about the CFI car is that it was do about that (14.8ish) with just the headers, timing and fuel pressure.
I put a mild cam, edelbrock intake, 650 Holley and headers on an LG4 Formula back in HS and only mustered a 14.8 My 91 Z28 LB9 ran a tick better bone stock 14.76
Back in the day when these cars were new I was into the performance and building up a stock motor with bolt-ons, etc, these days 300 HP is nothing
and IMO, all the work, effort and $$$ it takes to get these cars to produce 300+ HP is just not worth the effort and $$$, I'm fine with a stock 230 HP car
and just cruising around the local auto shows and car cruise nights - if I want to street race, I can go out and pick up a newer
500+ HP (and much more) car to play with and build upon that.....but I appreciate the work, time, effort and $$$ that guys here put into getting 3rd gens to produce over 300+ HP
Back in the day when these cars were new I was into the performance and building up a stock motor with bolt-ons, etc, these days 300 HP is nothing
and IMO, all the work, effort and $$$ it takes to get these cars to produce 300+ HP is just not worth the effort and $$$, I'm fine with a stock 230 HP car
and just cruising around the local auto shows and car cruise nights - if I want to street race, I can go out and pick up a newer
500+ HP (and much more) car to play with and build upon that.....but I appreciate the work, time, effort and $$$ that guys here put into getting 3rd gens to produce over 300+ HP
I feel the same way now Im older. I built my 350 a few yrs ago basicly stock even running the TBI system the car came with just upgrading it enough to make it a fun driver. 250-275hp, good gearing and nice transmission setup. Still gets 23mpg and has enough power to do burnouts and outrun most pickup trucks Lol
Back in the day when these cars were new I was into the performance and building up a stock motor with bolt-ons, etc, these days 300 HP is nothing
and IMO, all the work, effort and $$$ it takes to get these cars to produce 300+ HP is just not worth the effort and $$$, I'm fine with a stock 230 HP car
and just cruising around the local auto shows and car cruise nights - if I want to street race, I can go out and pick up a newer
500+ HP (and much more) car to play with and build upon that.....but I appreciate the work, time, effort and $$$ that guys here put into getting 3rd gens to produce over 300+ HP
I just like to torture myself. Granted it's a corvette not a thirdgen so it's a lot more car to start with anyway....
I've been in some really fast cars. Then I've been in some really really fast cars. 2100lbs with me in it and 650 at the tire N/A.... Thats a hell of a car and way too much for me... and apparently anything else on the road too. Anything beyond 400 at the tire is beyond what the average person could handle comfortably anyway. Well without traction control and all the other nannies that go with it.
It's pretty cool to be growing up in a time where you can walk into a showroom and buy a 600+ hp vehicle and still be able to drive it all year without fear of dying. It rains and I have to park the vette because those Sport comp 2s just don't do well no matter how easy I touch the throttle lol. That's like 80% of the fun though, knowing the only thing keeping me alive is my control of my right foot.
None that I know of, or trust not to go all "photobucket" on my later. When ownership at the bucket when crazy, holding images captive for insane new membership fees, I switched to Flickr. Costs me a few bucks a year, but is very stable, and I have unlimited space.
Originally Posted by KITT1983
I need help with ebl flash tuning I got the lc2 wideband o2 installed
Holy WAYBACK machine! Isn't this the old Crane FIREBALL 296 camshaft?
Looks more like an aftermarket clone of the 350 hp 327 grind. Which is similar to the L82 grind I had in a TBI 305 with 081 heads long ago. Those cams are happier around 11:1 then they are at 8.5:1.
Here is a generic description for your camshaft: (from Elgin) Look at E-903-P
Range C (Hydraulic: 210° - 225° Effective Duration)
(Mechanical: 220° - 235° Effective Duration)
Fair idle quality with lope. Good mid-range torque and response in 2400 - 3200 RPM range. Operating power
range 2000 - 4800 RPM. Good fuel economy cam with correct equipment. Good choice for light towing.
Compression 10.3 to 1 or less. Will work with stock or slightly modified engine, stock automatic or manual
transmission. Recommended spring pressure 110 lbs. for valve on seat; 280 lbs. for valve open. Axle ratio
3.70 to 1 or higher is best. Recommended for mild bracket racing.
If you'd like, I'll drop the base tune I used on my engine. The cam is larger but it ran decent enough to drive and then hone in with the wide band. It was kind of fat.
If you'd like, I'll drop the base tune I used on my engine. The cam is larger but it ran decent enough to drive and then hone in with the wide band. It was kind of fat.
Isn't this the old Crane FIREBALL 296 camshaft?
