Still no spark
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Still no spark
I’m trying to diagnose why I still don’t have spark and I’m running out of places to look.
I replaced the…
whole Distributor with new unit
New Wires
Coil
Rechecked all my ground wires and scrapes ( 4 from the firewall, battery and ground strap on the frame. I’ve connected the coil wire with a spare spark plug I had to touch to the engine and still no spark.
I removed the smog pump and hoses, would there be anything on that section of harness that needs to be hooked up?
I replaced the…
whole Distributor with new unit
New Wires
Coil
Rechecked all my ground wires and scrapes ( 4 from the firewall, battery and ground strap on the frame. I’ve connected the coil wire with a spare spark plug I had to touch to the engine and still no spark.
I removed the smog pump and hoses, would there be anything on that section of harness that needs to be hooked up?
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,526
Likes: 238
From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Still no spark
I would check the +12V ign going to the distributor
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 89
Re: Still no spark
Is there an echo in here?
Does the engine not crank, or does it crank but not start? HUGE difference in diagnostics depending on which failure you have.
Kinda guessing that it cranks, but won't start and run.
1. Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank the engine?
2. Have you ever removed and reinstalled a distributor before, and did the engine run afterwards? (i.e., did you install the distributor with the engine at TDC-Exhaust rather than TDC-Compression, or similar synchronization problems?)
3. Are the spark plugs worn, or fouled from excess cranking?
4. Is there power to the distributor module in addition to the ignition coil?
5. What is the resistance of the coil wire, and the plug wires? Insulation burned/cut/abraded?
6. Does the coil have enough spark power to reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI? There's multiple kinds of spark testers, avoid any that use a crappy light-bulb that glows to indicate spark. You want one that causes the spark to jump a calibrated gap. My favorite kind is
7. Is this "new" distributor made in China, with a lousy bottom-feeder ignition module included? Same for the "new" ignition coil. You're probably better-off with your original module and coil unless you can show that they're defective.
Does the engine not crank, or does it crank but not start? HUGE difference in diagnostics depending on which failure you have.
Kinda guessing that it cranks, but won't start and run.
1. Does the distributor rotor turn when you crank the engine?
2. Have you ever removed and reinstalled a distributor before, and did the engine run afterwards? (i.e., did you install the distributor with the engine at TDC-Exhaust rather than TDC-Compression, or similar synchronization problems?)
3. Are the spark plugs worn, or fouled from excess cranking?
4. Is there power to the distributor module in addition to the ignition coil?
5. What is the resistance of the coil wire, and the plug wires? Insulation burned/cut/abraded?
6. Does the coil have enough spark power to reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI? There's multiple kinds of spark testers, avoid any that use a crappy light-bulb that glows to indicate spark. You want one that causes the spark to jump a calibrated gap. My favorite kind is
7. Is this "new" distributor made in China, with a lousy bottom-feeder ignition module included? Same for the "new" ignition coil. You're probably better-off with your original module and coil unless you can show that they're defective.
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Eggplant Jeff
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Sep 27, 2004 05:16 PM