Black Box next to valve cover:?
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,520
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From: 600 yds out
Car: Bee-Bowdy
Engine: blowd tree-fity
Transmission: sebin hunnerd
Axle/Gears: fo-tins
That's the AIR diverter solenoid I think. Smog pumps are a crock. I think if you lookup smog pump removal or AIR pump removal you can get all the info on taking it out.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 731
Likes: 2
From: Blacksburg, VA
Car: '92 Rally Sport
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
I believe you are referring to the AIR system. It's used to pump fresh air into the manifolds and cat to help the cat "re-burn" the exhaust. You can remove all of that... hoses, black box, smog pump, etc. You wont throw any codes, you'll lose about 12 pounds, and get rid of engine clutter. Remember to cap the inlets on the manifolds and on the tube running to the cat. The smog pump delete is not difficult, just remember that you make have to reinstall it come inspection time (only takes about 20 min.) Refer to the smog pump delete article in the tech articles section.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
While you're at it, remove the crappy stock heater hoses and go the classic way. 2 hoses from heater core into intake manifold and waterpump. No need for the stupid switch which is controled by the hvac climate controls! Did you know that no coolant flows into the heater core UNLESS you have the heat/vent/defrost selected! That's bull. I don't want cold air blowing on me until the engine warms up. For this reason I just have 2 hoses going from the heatercore into the engine, just like how the small block was designed for.
As for the AIR pump, remove it, it's junk. I passed my car with the vortec heads (no EGR) and no air pump. The only thing I had was a cat. Ran my engine at 200 degrees and passed the NJ sniff on dyno test.
As for the AIR pump, remove it, it's junk. I passed my car with the vortec heads (no EGR) and no air pump. The only thing I had was a cat. Ran my engine at 200 degrees and passed the NJ sniff on dyno test.
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Saint Louis, MO, USA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by JPrevost
I don't want cold air blowing on me until the engine warms up. For this reason I just have 2 hoses going from the heatercore into the engine, just like how the small block was designed for.
I don't want cold air blowing on me until the engine warms up. For this reason I just have 2 hoses going from the heatercore into the engine, just like how the small block was designed for.
I believe it's because air is still flowing through the heater core when the AC is on, and you don't want it heating up what is supposed to be cold air. If you move the temp selector to hot while it's on MAX or AC, it'll let the coolant flow through. Why would you do that if there's a HEATER and VENT selection? Because when you involve the AC it dries the air. This is really nice in extremely humid areas where without it, you'd just fog up the windows. That's why the DEFROST selection also turns on the compressor.
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