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What is going on? (Battery?)

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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 10:41 PM
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MetalliCamaroRS's Avatar
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
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What is going on? (Battery?)

Heres the story:

The car has run fine since I bought it in November. Never had a problem starting it up, not even when it was 10 below outside. Today some buddies were over and one wanted to hear my exhaust (he had only heard it once before) so I went to start it up. *click* is all I hear. I shut it off, then try again and it turns and eventually starts, but the sound is different. More like a pu-pu-pu-put-put sound, then it gets normal. So he hears it, I shut it off, and we go back to what we were doing. Then when they all leave I go to take my girlfriend home and it starts, but my voltage gauge is at like 10 instead of the usual 13. My gauges are dimmer, and when I hit the turn signal, it takes about a second for them to come on and they are much slower.

What could be causing this problem? The only other recent problem with the car is that the power hatch pull down motor doesn't come up unless I pull it up and it won't go all the way down. But I checked and the little light that comes on when the hatch is open is not lit up so thats not draining the battery. I did not leave my lights or radar detector on while parked. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 10:45 PM
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Mark A Shields's Avatar
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Car: 99 Formula
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If I'm not mistaken , I believe some people have said that the hatch motor will continue to run sometimes, that would cause it. Something to check out.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 11:00 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
What fuse is the hatch motor on?
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 11:09 PM
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
You got me... anyone??
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 11:13 PM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Could it be the Alternator?
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 11:16 PM
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take the rear trim panel loose from the trunk and unplug the connector for the pulldown motor that will stop the drain on the battery (don't disconnect the one going to the contact pads on the trim piece, that controlls the rear defroster and third brake light). then reattach the trim piece and thats it. you may have to adjust the catch for the hatch so it will close all the way.
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 11:29 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Okay, since its in the garage, I disconnected the motor and the light until I can work on it more tomorrow. This should be fine for now, right? Thanks.
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Old Apr 18, 2002 | 03:54 AM
  #8  
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I'd second the alternator, take the alternator and the batt down to the local autozone and they'll test it for free, and if it's bad that's an excuse to spring for a 140amp one
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Old Apr 18, 2002 | 11:41 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Well I fixed my hatch motor, put it all back together, and the battery is charging right now so I'll see how it all goes.
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 12:58 AM
  #10  
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Car: 1991 Pontiac ta 5.0l 2005 pontiac gxp 5.3l ls4 dod 2003 GMC Envoy 4.2l
thats what my alt did before it died the readings were lower than the norm 12-13. Pull the alt and have it checked it can't hurt.
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 10:26 AM
  #11  
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I had the exact same problem, I'd leave the car overnight with a battery charger on it just so I could get to work in the morning. The car's battery would be deader than a door nail if I never put the charger on it.

My hatch was doing the exact same thing yours is doing.

This week with the warmer weather here, the hatch decided it wanted to work again, and guess what? The battery draining has now disappeared!

I am going out today with a multimeter to double check if that was actually the problem or if it is something else still draining slowly, because I have been driving more often (charging the battery more)
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 11:58 AM
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
I would take the alternator into a auto store and have them check it out. But I beleive the right fuse it a 20 yellow that may say curtosy lights. If not just start pulling fuses with the old trail and error technique. The plactic switch on your hatch motor may not be shutting off the motor. A easy way to check that is when you go to your can in the morning and it will not start take off all that plastic that covers the electric hatch assembly touch the motor to see if its hot. If it is you found the problem.


>You know I had a electric problem in my car. Took the tops off to go for a cruize and the battery was dead. Then I hear this clicking noise, So I look over at my electric locks. The little sob's were locking and unlocking by them selfs! There is a good security system for ya. I just took hammered on it put it back in and it works fine now.
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 12:47 PM
  #13  
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700R4 3500 stall, TransGo shift kit
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 4.11:1
Well after charging all night, I went to start it, and it slowly started again. So I took it in to the school auto shop and checked the alternator and you guys were right. It was only putting out 40 amps. So I got a new one today and all is good. Thanks for the help!
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 03:00 PM
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Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Originally posted by MetalliCamaroRS
Well after charging all night, I went to start it, and it slowly started again. So I took it in to the school auto shop and checked the alternator and you guys were right. It was only putting out 40 amps. So I got a new one today and all is good. Thanks for the help!

Wow I was actually right about something!


I'm gonna go celebrate :lala:
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 07:08 PM
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ME TOO
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