About to finish up first round of mods (listed)--what should I check before driving?
About to finish up first round of mods (listed)--what should I check before driving?
After seven months of modding when I haven't been studying (and asking stupid questions here as of late), I should have it on the road tomorrow! :lala:
This is what I've done:
-ported, siamesed plenum & ported upper runners
-powdercoated (blue over silver basecoat) tpi & VC
-SLP 1 3/4" AIR shorties and Y pipe (I'll be driving with just the Y pipe until next thursday
) (moved column and ground shaft--still only have 1/4" clearance)
-SLP TB airfoil
-Pro 5.0 shifter
-steering wheel from non-airbag car
-plugs, wires
-Global West steering brace
-new gaskets on everything I took off except EGR
-Lokar engine dipstick
-March power & amp crank and alt pulleys with new belt
I plan to change oil and rear end fluid very soon.
Could you guys list some things that I should check (or some common mistakes) one last time before I drive the car?
(I know that this doesn't look like a lot of stuff, but I've become pretty familiar with the car (first thirdgen) and I am maintaining a 4.0 at TCU while taking nothing but math, science, and one engineering class--studing takes up plenty of my time.)
This is what I've done:
-ported, siamesed plenum & ported upper runners
-powdercoated (blue over silver basecoat) tpi & VC
-SLP 1 3/4" AIR shorties and Y pipe (I'll be driving with just the Y pipe until next thursday
) (moved column and ground shaft--still only have 1/4" clearance)-SLP TB airfoil
-Pro 5.0 shifter
-steering wheel from non-airbag car
-plugs, wires
-Global West steering brace
-new gaskets on everything I took off except EGR
-Lokar engine dipstick
-March power & amp crank and alt pulleys with new belt
I plan to change oil and rear end fluid very soon.
Could you guys list some things that I should check (or some common mistakes) one last time before I drive the car?
(I know that this doesn't look like a lot of stuff, but I've become pretty familiar with the car (first thirdgen) and I am maintaining a 4.0 at TCU while taking nothing but math, science, and one engineering class--studing takes up plenty of my time.)
Last edited by cort351w; May 2, 2002 at 09:43 PM.
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From: New Mexico
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: peanut cam LB9
Transmission: 700R4
That's pretty impressive on your GPA. I don't have anywhere near that attention span.
LOL Anyway really all you need to do is just give everything a good once over, kind of go around the engine bay and under the car and re-trace your steps. Also make sure you don't find any loose wires or hoses. Once you get her on the road drive it until it gets to operating temp then head home. When it cools down enough to touch re-torque and tighten everything. You may have to do this every hundred miles or so on the headers themselves. They can be bastards about loosening up and burning up gaskets. Also give your plug wires a periodic check to make sure they're not on the headers or that the heat from the headers isn't destroying the insulation on the wires. Hope this helps,
Jason
LOL Anyway really all you need to do is just give everything a good once over, kind of go around the engine bay and under the car and re-trace your steps. Also make sure you don't find any loose wires or hoses. Once you get her on the road drive it until it gets to operating temp then head home. When it cools down enough to touch re-torque and tighten everything. You may have to do this every hundred miles or so on the headers themselves. They can be bastards about loosening up and burning up gaskets. Also give your plug wires a periodic check to make sure they're not on the headers or that the heat from the headers isn't destroying the insulation on the wires. Hope this helps,Jason
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
That GPA deal will only get harder.... try out two calcs and the rest engineering and still have a social life and we'll see where that GPA goes.... lol
. Just funnin ya... never know, maybe you can do it! Not me....... tried it....... I'll take an easy (cough cough) business degree, thank you very much.
Anyways, if you had the intake manifold off (any time you crack open an engine), you should change the oil. Never know what kind of contaminents got down into the oil when you did that and the bottom line is: OIL IS CHEAP!!!
So change the oil before you fire it up and again with the filter after you run it for a half hour or so. Never can be too careful, and like I said: OIL IS CHEAP!!!
. Just funnin ya... never know, maybe you can do it! Not me....... tried it....... I'll take an easy (cough cough) business degree, thank you very much.Anyways, if you had the intake manifold off (any time you crack open an engine), you should change the oil. Never know what kind of contaminents got down into the oil when you did that and the bottom line is: OIL IS CHEAP!!!
So change the oil before you fire it up and again with the filter after you run it for a half hour or so. Never can be too careful, and like I said: OIL IS CHEAP!!!
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