1. Do all the oilpan boldts need to be removed so that the whole pan hangs, or should i just remove the front boldts and pry the pan a little?

2. In my gasket set there is a thick black U-shaped peice of rubber, where does this go?

3. How do I get a tool between the pan and the X-member to loosen the pan boldts?

The only thing i'm worried about is the oilpan dropping part. I am fairly confident that the rest will not be so hard.

I'm going to have about 5 hours on saturday to get this done.

I've bought a new cam gear and chain and i have black RTV.

Anything I should know about possible mistakes?


Thanx guys,


My machanic is not happy with thirdgen.org

 

You don't have to remove the oil pan at all. It may make changing the chain easier, but doesn't need to be done.

 

huh I was under the impression that it needed to be done.


I appreciate it

 

Putting the cover back on will be a little tuff, takes some wiggling and cussing to do it.

 

i dont mean to be an idiot but.... is there a lip on the front cover that just slides between the motor and the pan???

because if thats the case.....

i like to take the cussing way around things...


Rob

 

Sorry, not exactly sure, I'm just recalling the way my brother did it.

 

yeah there is a lip on the cover that slips in between the oil pan lip. is the motor out of the car or in it. if out it is definitely easier to take the pan off and add a new gasket for reassurance of no leaks and if it is in the car and few min of wiggling and some sillicone will do the trick but dont forget the few swears tho. they come with every job

 

yeah its in the car... still a little nervous..about doing it ..because i need the car back on the road....

thanx for the info guys

Rob

 

That u shaped rubber piece goes on the bottom of the timing cover, between the cover and the oil pan. It is not 100% necessary to lower the pan, but it does make it easier. It can be pretty difficult to slip that lip over the oil pan and the cover over the crankshaft all while keeping track of that silocone that you're getting everywhere.

 

Better of doing the job and knowing the chain is good than having it break on you! The oil pan doesn't have to be dropped, however you do need some clearance between the pan and the block on the front of the engine. When I changed my timing chain, and the cam a few months later, I used metal wedges and jammed them in the pan to hold it down. It sure made the timing case cover a lot easier to put on, and then I put silicone on the pan before I bolted it back up. Hasn't leaked yet and this is back in the fall I did the job. Good luck and may I suggest... having the front of the engine apart is 1/2 way there to a cam job .

Oh yeah... the dowel pins will be a true pita if you don't at least drop the front of the pan.