Ok, refer to my earlier post called 'Blowback? Cracked Head?'
I had decided it was my pass side exhaust donut. While looking for the easiest way to get to the donut, I found the real problem.

It's the air thing off my manifold. I checked those down where they connect to the manifold but never thought to check the upper 'other end' of the aluminum tubing. The 4 tubes come off the manifold, all join into a ~3/4" collector that is threaded. Attached to that is a flange looking connector that connects to a ~1/2" rubber hose. That thing is broken off at the threads. The exhaust was blowing out that roughly 1/2 inch hole, thus the loud blowback sound I was hearing out of the top ot the engine.

Looks like the whole thing will be easy to replace, but the real question is can those things be bought? Or is there an 'alabama remedy' for this.

I've tried to attach a pic.........

Anyone?
RB

 

Stainless Steel is what the tubes should be made from.
That thing you are holding in the picture is a checkvalve, to keep the exhaust gasses from going back up the lines to the PEDES valve and into the pump.
Should still be able to buy them, if not go to the local auto graveyard (junk yard) and see if you can find some. You don't want to Rube Goldberg these since they are checkvalves.

~M~

 

Since this is broke off at the threads, (theres only 2 threads left in the tube) do I have to buy the whole setup or just the checkvalve?

I have removed it, thus the pic, is there any harm in driving without it for a while, til I get it fixed? (There is quite a bit of exhaust blowing out of the open tube now)

RB

 

you have to get a whole new AIR tube setup or depending on your exaust manifold setup a new exaust manifold the thereded portian is pipe thred and is therefore tapered so a new ck valve will not fit over the 2 remaning thereds, I personally would just cap off both sides, it wont hurt anything (unless you have to deal with smog ****'s who will say it is tampering with stock emmisions even though it won't effect them.)

 

RB,

O.K. So one of my guesses was close. For reference, C.A.R.B. is the California Air Resources Board. A certification from them for emissions compliance on aftermarket parts is generally accepted in all 50 states. If the parts have a C.A.R.B. certification number, they should be legal to use on the highway anywhere.

The AIR check valve - the thing you're holding in the photo (no, not the camera, the other thing) is usually available as a replacement part from almost any dealer or parts store - pretty reasonably too. The last valve I got from Rockenbach was about twenty bucks, but you should be able to find them at Checker, AutoZone, Pep Boys, or even a real parts store for a little less. If the problem is with the injection tube manifold, however, it is going to be a lot more difficult to find except at the dealership. Any boneyard replacements are likely to be fairly corroded and thin, too.

If you can temporarily live without the A.I.R. system (I won't tell the smog cops if you don't) you can probably find a 1/2" NPT pipe cap to install in place of the check valve. If you don't seal the tube, you will likely permit air into the exhaust manifolds after the engine has warmed up. This can skew the O² sensor reading if the leak is on the left side, and can contribute to cat converter overheating and exhaust valve damage on either side. Don't lose any sleep over plugging or capping the rubber hose from teh A.I.R. diverter valve and pump. It won't be a problem except for a little air noise when the engine is cold.

When you install the replacement check valve, try to coat the threads with anti-sieze compound to prevent further thread damage.

Incidentally, that's what I like to see - a woman hard at work, unless that's a hockey stick and she's lining you up for a slpashot in the background....

(NOTE TO SELF: Don't let my wife see this one.)

And since you'll still be using oil on your aging engine once you get this little item repaired, you might still want to research the feasibility of a re-ring for your engine, or your other options. You only have another 100,000 miles or so before the real problems begin.

 

the actual threaded part broke off? Heh, that ain't good. Replacing the air tubes going to the manifold is gonna be a real fun job, Stainless threaded into cast iron..... If you opt to try and replace the air tube assembly on the manifold, cut them off the manifold so you can put a SIX point socket or box end wrench on the nuts, soak the nuts in penetrating oil for a few days and see if they will unscrew. Doing the replacements from a junkyard manifold will be tough since you can't cut them off. For them get some tubing wrenches of the proper size and soak the nuts for a few days in penetrating oil.

Good luck.

~M~

 

I guess I'm a little unclear on this. Is it the check valve itseslf that has corroded threads or the stainless steel standpipe that has corroded away?

 

Its the standpipe. From the looks I initially said aluminum. Wow stainless.

Yup, shes hard at work there Vader. But shes the banker too. I've been getting a rash from her over this exhaust thing for a week now. (She got a new Durango last month so money is tight)

Thanks guys.....
RB