Ok, 85 Z28 with 350 carb from tpi setup. Last night I was hooking up my fan to run on a toggle. All in all shocked myself first HAHA. Then fan came on but some smoke started out by the A/c and heater. Turned everything off disc. the battery too. Wires were a little hot. Got to late. Next morning came out to start wouldn't. Hooked up battery charger for 6 hrs. The meter says its good to crank. Nothing happens at all. Accessiory lights work and ext. lights too. I put in the key and no little buzzing sound. Turn the key, no drain from lights or nothing. Then I thought of the smoke! Yep, looked at all fuses good. Don't know about the bigger silver ones?? Any inline fuse that can hold me back? Battery still good. I ripped out all TPI wiring 3 days ago. Started after that. One thing I don't know. Little black box with a red, ppl, orng, blk wires going into it. I thought it was for A/c and fan. While hooking up toggle I wired the hot into ignition??? By the fuse in the block.

 

dude, get some wiring diagrams and get a clue before you start ripping **** out of your car and trying to rig stuff up. Sounds to me like you blew a fusible link, and if you did it's because you somehow caused a big short that wasnt on a fused circuit and it blew the fusible link rather then exlode the battery.

 

I think your fusible link will be down inline near the starter.

Follow the red wire coming off the starter solenoid heading to the driverside junction at the firewall. The Battery cable is on the same post.

Do yourself a favor, and find the cause of the short before you SOLDER in a new fusible link. If indead it's fryed.

BTW: If your switch is a lighted one, you might need to change the pos & acc wire around. I did the same thing with a lighted switch cause it was labled stupid. I did catch it in time when my battery talked to me (threw a hisssyyy fit) when I tryed to hook up the ground cable.

hmmm, if the fusible link is gone you probably wouldn't have any power running to the fusebox? I think, buts it's worth looking into.


Ron

 

I do have many diagrams for this damn car. The TPI removal and wires went pretty smooth. The car started right up after getting ride of all the wires. During my toggle switch wiring is when it happened. It is just a regular on/off switch. I've checked all my fuses. With the little black box. Comeing off the A/c housing. What is it?? Like I said, there's a RED,PPL,BLK,ORG wire going into it. Are the inline fuses like the little round tubed glass fuses?? On the wiring diagram from Haynes. It show that there is a inline coming off the starter solenoid. Can you see the fuse once the wires are thaken out of the black plastic wrappin? When I push in the key into the ignition. Nothing. Turn the key nothing. Not a click, buzz or anything.

 

The slick way to operate the cooling fan(s) is to switch the ground wire coming off the relays which used to go to the ECM.

This way you're less likely to blow fuses, since you're only switching ground. Should be green/white coming off the primary fan relay and going to the ECM, don't recall the aux relay color but it goes/went to the coolant temp switch in the passenger side head.

The fusible links on the starter positive pole look like regular wires but will be physically weakened if they are blown. Might show some evidence of burning if they died on a short to ground.

 

Heh, no. What you are looking at is a Fuseable Link, it is a metal fuse device crimped into the wire run. When they blow you have to cut them out and get new ones put in, either by using HEAVY guage butt splices or solder.

~M~

 

With this fuse linkup how can you tell if its bad? Can I just cut it off and splice the wire back together without the fuse? I have the whole wiring harness out of the car and see nothing wrong with it. Tryed to jump the starter by a screwdriver. Just sparks and all no ingaging of the solenoid? When I turned the key with ignition to on. I get no power to the fuse box. I used a multimeter to see only power I have is for all lights and accessories?

 

The easiest way to tell a blown fusible link is to disconnect it and give it a pull. If it is blown it will prolly pull apart. sometimes they will burn right through and come apart when the blow and still other times they will kind of discolor in the area where they blew. Really no one way to diagnose it - just gotta inspect it really closely and tug on it a bit. Could always use an DVOM and Ohm it out......

 

Do not just splice the wires back together. The fuseable link is there as a last ditch effort to keep from burning things up. There is a reason it blew, find it, fix it then put another fuseable link in. If you just splice the wires and something is still shorted you might see flames.

~M~

 

Make sure you find the short before you splice it back together. This isnt thirdgen, but I remember on my boat during a bass tournament I blew the fuse on my trolling motor, because my wiring was bad. Well, I by-passed the fuse and low and behold it worked. For about 10 minutes. I used a fishhook as a fuse and the damn thing got hot enough to catch on fire. A trolling motor battery is 2X as large as a car battery, and no fun when burning. I put the fire out, and I firmly beleive if my gas tanks were not metal, I wouldve been dead, as they were right next to my gas tank. Be careful, a battery or something else can catch on fire by jury rigging things up.

 

Well I was told that I could check the fuseable links with multimeter. Continutity check I did this and got all good readings. So I'm installing the wiring harness back into the engine bay. I'll see if I can get power from battery to starter. Then from starter to dist. then the main block going to fire wall. Does this sound like the route I should take?