darnit. Ok, my car is still giving me a code 33 all the time, even though i replaced the MAF sensor. I have an 86 IROC, and I was told that some of the ECMs from that year were defective in that the computer wouldn't get rid of certain codes after they had been detected. So I"m assuming thats what that problem is

Yesterday I went to start my car and i noticed the fuel pump that always comes on when you turn the key sounded weak or sickly. Being the ignorant person that I am, I didn't do more than just notice it at that point. This morning when I was getting ready to go to work, I went to start it but it wouldn't start. Plenty of crank, no fuel pump whine at all.

I've had trouble with cold starts in the past too, sometimes it would take me a couple minutes to get it to start up. Strangely it seemed fine the past few days before this happened.

The thing is its now throwing me a code 36 which reads on the list of trouble codes:

36. Burn off at mass air flow sensor OR
Problem in transmission shift OR
Fault in direct ignition system OR
Missing pulses in electronic spark timing signal

I don't quite get why there would be so many things wrong listed together with one code #. Is it something along the lines of them all being on the same circuit? I dunno...


this is the other code I'm getting.

33. High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)

I don't fully trust the ECM at this point, so what are some other ways I can check to see whats wrong?

Thanks again guys

 

I'm not sure if this has much to do with that, but I've also been having overheating problems, for which I am going to install a fan switch. Just figured I'd try and be complete in my description of my car's condition.

 

I would try replacing both your fuel pump relay, and your maf relay and see if those clear up any of the codes.

Ben

 

ok, i found the relays, which wires should i jumper to bypass it to see if the fuel pump goes on?

 

I have no idea. I just thought that that might be a cheap part to try buying to see if it fixes the problem, especially since you alreaddy replaced the maf sensor.

Ben

 

I gave myself a break (got lazy and frustrated) and took the bus to work for a week. Now I got the gas tank out and the fuel sending unit out too.

I hooked both my old pump and the new one i just bought to my battery to see if they both worked. they both spun.

my new one sounds much smoother and stronger than my old one, so im glad i'm replacing it. But the old one still goes when hard-wired to the battery. It wasn't going at all when i would turn the ignition on.

My fuel pump relay looks almost brand new, but could it still be that?

The old one sounds weak and noisy, it definitely needs replacing, but i'm wondering why it wouldn't go at all when i turned the key.

Any advice? none of the parts stores around here has a relay, so I have to order it from somewhere. Any suggestions?


thanks,

Tom

 

someone hurryhurryhurry i'm excited to get my car back on the road!!!:lala:

 

I am not an expert in any way, but from the sound of it, your relay is bad. Try this: disconnect the fuel pump relay and use a fused jumper wire to connect CKT 120 to 12 volts. This should be a tan/white wire at the ecm (might want to verify this with your shop manual). If the pump runs, then the relay is bad. If not, check for a bad ground at the fuel pump. Hope this helps. Thomas

 

While you're looking at that relay check the wires on the connector too. I went through a similar problem a while back that was a bitch to find. Turned out to be the wires on the connector that the relay plugs into were totally decomposing. I replaced the connector and it solved the problem. Just a thought. Good luck

 

yeah, they're in pretty sad shape. Where would i get a connector like that though/