Spark Control Module
Spark Control Module
Hey guys, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the spark control module located somewhat behind the master cylinder on an 86 IROC with a 305 TPI?
My second question, if the car becomes hard to start, could that be caused by the spark control module? I don't mean to be ignorant, but I don't know what it does. Thanks!
My second question, if the car becomes hard to start, could that be caused by the spark control module? I don't mean to be ignorant, but I don't know what it does. Thanks!
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
IGNITION MUDULE! under the distibutor cap..check out this link...https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...readid=115254.
The ESC, electronic spark control is behind the master cylinder as you assumed. The ignition module is what's in the distributor. Hard starting can be caused by a lot of things, and without spare parts to swap out, it can be expensive to troubleshoot by guessing and replacing stuff. (That's why I grab lots of extras at the junkyard
) Are you having any drivability problems? Is your cold start injector working? does it run rough until it warms up? Any more info you can add will help to get suggestions to follow. Hope this helps some.
) Are you having any drivability problems? Is your cold start injector working? does it run rough until it warms up? Any more info you can add will help to get suggestions to follow. Hope this helps some. Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
ESC....I may be barking at the moon but I'm pretty it has something to do with the CC timing. At least you have to disconnect it when timing the motor.
Ok, you guys ready for this, it's going to be pretty long. For starters let me give you some information about the car. It's an 86 IROC, the person I bought it off of put a 350 TPI in place of the 305 TPI without changing the computer or EPROM. I started working on it to make it run better and that's where it all began. Just about every sensor and electrical part is new. I kept throwing a code 33, and the computer constantly went in and out of learn mode. The car also overheated, after a couple of weeks of troubleshooting, I discovered the EPROM could be the problem. The code 33 was brought about because the 350 was letting more air in than the 305, plus he changed the injectors to 22 lb/hr, the computer read it as running lean, but the AutoXray said it was rich. After that I changed the MAF sensor. Before I heard about the EPROM, I changed the MAF relay, but didn't know which one it was, plus Auto Zone had two but couldn't say which one would fit the car. So I took my chances and bought one and installed it, and it drove great, then I blew the gauge cluster fuse. So I bought the other one and tried it, and the same thing, fuse blew. I've even disconnected all of the relays, had the computer out, had the cluster out, and disconnected the wiring from the brake relay all at the same time and it still blew the fuse. Finally I tracked it down to the air pump and disconnected the to connectors and the fuse quit blowing. Hooked everything up and the car ran fine, but when I would turn it off and try to start it, it would turn over all day but not fire. So from reading stuff on message boards I figured it could be the module or coil, so I changed both of them, plus retimed the car to spec. Same thing still happened, it just would not start, so I figured the alternator wasn't charging because the engine would turn over slowly, I took it off had it checked and there was a short in it. I changed it and the car ran fine, drove it for 40 miles, 20 on the hwy, turned it off, and it still wouldn't fire until I let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Once I finally got it started, it ran like sh*t and the damn fuse blew again. Now as for the relays, the stock part numbers on them were all the same, the aftermarket relays are all the same, and all three of my relays have 5 wires. Last night I figured out the MAF power relay was bad, so I changed it and took it for a ride. The car ran horrible, the volt reading was below 8 volts so I pulled in AutoZone to have them test the alternator. When I came out to start the car, I got nothing. We tried to jump it, and even put a new battery in and still nothing, not even a clicking noise. When I turned the key it would kill everything automatically, and I don't have VATS. I know this has changed into a whole lot more than what I originally asked, but this is the reason behind asking the question. If you guys have any info, please let me know. Thanks
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Oh MY G0d...sounds like an electrical nightmare to me.....wish I could tell ya what to do , but I have no Idea....things like this really suck! So many things it could be..from fusible links to ECM. Hope someone can help ya out.....I cant, sorry.
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