I've just bought an 86 IROC 305 TPI about a week ago. Still working on gremlins but running very good. I have a couple questions. I got an EGR code 32 after I was messing around by the distributor. Looks like a vacum line goes to the back of what I think is the EGR relay. Can someone tell me where this line would be routed from because I don't see a line anywhere that may have come off.

Also can someone tell me how in the h*ll to get to the distributor bolt to adjust the timing. There is just about zero clearance and it looks to be the stock dist. (Delco-Remy). I just can't get a wrench in there to loosen it and it looks like my base timing is way off. It goes past the notches off the scale. Looks to be around 15-17* and if I've read correctly it should be around 6* with the EST disconnected? Can someone walk me through setting the timing process. I've looked but can't seem to find a clear procedure, or can you link the post that explains this well.

Any help is appreciated and this site is incredible for info gathering. Thanks to all of those that share the knowledge.

Tim

 

In regards to the EGR, maybe it came off the EGR valve itself? Dunno what to tell you there.

But the distributor bolt can be reached with a special wrench. It's got two steps in it so it'll reach the bolt. They sell em at Autozone, one side is for Ford, the other is for Chevy.

 

You should have a vac line coming from the front of the plenum to the EGR solenoid, which is on the same mount as the ignition coil. You can see that line from the front, drivers side.

There should be another line going from that solenoid to the EGR valve, it's attached to the intake manifold underneath the plenum.

What I did to set the timing was remove the Torx bolts holding the coil/egr solenoid and move that assembly out of the way. It's a major pain in the ace though. Do it right the first time so you don't need to do it again.

PS. Remember to disconnect the EST wire while checking timing.

 

SAR,

Welcome Aboard!

On either your upper radiator support or the underside of the hood, there should be (or, should have been) a VECI label with this diagram:



Near the distributor is the EGR solenoid. One of the ports has the vacuum line from the underside of the throttle body as Alex indicated. Another port has the vacuum line to the EGR valve itself, and the third port originally should have had a small foam cube glued to it to act as a filter. This is merely a vent port, and must be open to allow the EGR valve to close and dump vacuum when the solenoid releases.

 

Thanks for the info. That is exactly what I was talking about. The back side of the EGR silonoid looks like something plugs into it, so I guess it was the foam filter you mentioned, which is not there. Is it important to have that?

On another note: I finally got the tool from Advanced Auto Parts to reach the distributor bolt. I checked the timing with the EST unplugged and it looked to by about 17*-18*. It was past the site tab which ends at 12*. So I put it to 6* and drove it and it would hardly move. No knocks or pings but absoloutly no power. So I put it back to about where is was and all the power in the world. I bought the car with a HyperTech Stage II chip already in it. So is that the cause for more timing? Not many more mods other than upgraded injectors and fuel pump, flowmaster exhaust still with a cat.

Will taking the belt off of the air pump and unplugging it cause any problems and will it help reduce load to pulley for a little power.

Thanks for the info from everyone.

Tim

 

SAR,

The little foam cube on the vent port of the EGR solenoid is not necessary. I'd guess that 95% or more of the vehicles originally equipped with these are driving around with no problems, even though the "filter" has long since fallen off or disintegrated.

Your timing advance probably shouldn't be that high, unless something serious was done to the cam. You may want to check the alignment of the timing mark on teh damper to verify it hasn't slipped. (If you're using an aftermarket chromed timing cover and timing tab, they are seldom correct.)

As for the A.I.R. pump, my position is that at worst it will rob 1-*2 HP at peak RPM, so any gain would be negligible. Pumping air to the exhaust during warm up only heats the O² sensor faster and prevents contamination of it. You'll have a more accurate sensor and longer life, as well as faster closed-loop and better fuel mileage.

 

Before you blame a slipped balancer make sure you disconnected the correct wire to kill the timing.

Disconnect the timing wire. WHile you're shooting the balancer with the timing light rev the motor up a few times. The timing mark shouldn't move (advance). If it does, you unplugged the wrong wire.

When you're done plug the wire back in and verify that the timing DOES advance now with the timing light. If it doesn't then you've got some sort of ECM, wiring or ESC module problem.

 

Thanks for the timing question. I didn't know how to make sure it was the correct wire. That procedure helps. I'll be re-checking it tomorrow. Also keep getting a code 44 but still reading up on other post to try and fix that.

Thanks,
Tim