dormant car oil change
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Georgia
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dormant car oil change
OK, I bought a car from a guy who had left it sitting for over a year (with oil in the engine) due to electrical problems. Now I'm pretty close to fixing that problem but what do I do about changing the oil. By now I'm assuming its pretty thick...so do I have to worry about getting it all out or can I just get out what I can and add as much new as required from what was taken out and then run it and change it again...thats what I was planning. Any better suggestions are more than welcome.
#2
My thoughts...
Repair the problems. Top off all the necessary fluids. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Drain the oil while warm and change the filter. While you're under it, pump some fresh grease through all the steering and suspension fittings to drive out the old, dried grease. Lube the suspension and body bushings and mounts with silicone as recommended in the factory service procedures. Might as well do the body seals and gaskets while you're at it with the silicone. Use clean engine oil in the hinges and latches, and you should be set. (Spray lube on hinges is a quick road to hinge pin replacement.)
Plan on changing the other fluids as required, based on time/mileage, along with the other recommended routine service procedures.
I have a few cars in storage, and change oil regularly. My '96 Impala has 4,100 miles and has had five oil changes to date (soon due for the sixth). I use synthetic to reduce acid and sludge formation during storage, and still start the engine about once a month, and move the vehicle every few months to help keep things free and lubricated. As long as you "wake up" the car gradually, you should have minimal start up problems.
Repair the problems. Top off all the necessary fluids. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Drain the oil while warm and change the filter. While you're under it, pump some fresh grease through all the steering and suspension fittings to drive out the old, dried grease. Lube the suspension and body bushings and mounts with silicone as recommended in the factory service procedures. Might as well do the body seals and gaskets while you're at it with the silicone. Use clean engine oil in the hinges and latches, and you should be set. (Spray lube on hinges is a quick road to hinge pin replacement.)
Plan on changing the other fluids as required, based on time/mileage, along with the other recommended routine service procedures.
I have a few cars in storage, and change oil regularly. My '96 Impala has 4,100 miles and has had five oil changes to date (soon due for the sixth). I use synthetic to reduce acid and sludge formation during storage, and still start the engine about once a month, and move the vehicle every few months to help keep things free and lubricated. As long as you "wake up" the car gradually, you should have minimal start up problems.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
maroe624
Transmissions and Drivetrain
4
04-16-2017 08:29 AM