So I have a few timing questions. First, if I were to turn the harmonic balancer? should I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise when looking at it from the left. What would happen if I turn it the wrong way?

Next, I'm trying to set my timing after replacing my distributor. I guess I'm setting it from scratch. I did a search and from what I can tell I should turn the harmonic balancer, (is that what it's called) until the slit lines up with 0 degrees. Then I should point the rotor on the distributor towards the one position.
If this is the case, then where does the 6 degrees before TDC come in that is printed on my hood. Do I then use a timing light to adjust for that 6 degrees?

Thanks a lot. I really need to get my car running. I took off the whole fuel injection system, and sent my injectors to Rich from Cruisin Performance (I actually got better ones back), I also fixed my intake leak, installed new gaskets all over, and replaced the EGR. Everything's back together except the timing is wacked.

Thanks,
Dave

 

I meant do I turn the harmonic balancer looking at it from the front of the car. I'm not sure that's what it's actually called anyway. Its the big pulley on the bottom where the belt goes around that hooks up to the crankshaft.

Thanks,
Dave

 

Turn the balancer clockwise viewed from the front of the motor. I hope you're not using the balancer bolt, you could find yourself suddenly in a world of s*** that way. Make sure you are at #1 firing, not #6 firing which is the other instance of #1 TDC per engine cycle (2 revolutions). Leave the crank set at about where you want the timing to end up; 6°, 12° BTDC, whatever. Turn the oil pump shaft so that it points about 30° from straight front-to-rear, with it from pass rear to driver's front. Drop the dist in, with the housing in its correct orientation as it should be after installation, with the rotor pointing about 20° toward the front of straight toward the driver's side. As you drop it in, the shaft and rotor will turn CW, it will engage the oil pump rod, and when it settles all the way down against the intake, the rotor will be pointing about 30° to the driver's side from straight ahead. Tighten the hold-down bolt as tight as you can and still be able to move the dist housing. Pull up on the shaft and hold it as far CCW as you can; while holding it like this, rotate the housing CCW until the teeth of the "star wheel" just line up. Tighten the bolt the rest of the way, assemble the rotor, cap, wires, etc. #1 will be just to the driver's side of straight ahead.

 

Just wondering why you can't use the balancer bolt? How do you recommend turning the balancer? (I'm new to all this)

 

If you turn it counter clockwise you will probably just lossen the bolt holding it on. Best to turn it clockwise. And it is easier without the spark plugs in. Better yet it is easier using the starter to bump it over but not as easy to line the timing mark up.

If you put the mark on the harmonic balancer at 6 degrees and line your rotor to the number 1 plug terminal you should be pretty close. At least close enough to get it started and check with a light.

edit: oops you already got your answer while I was typing.

 

Balancer bolts have a nasty habit of either stripping the threads in the crank, or snapping off, when abused that way. Not much fun wither way.

Use one of those chain wrenches around the balancer; or bolt something to 2 of the pulley bolts; or something like that.

 

Use a timing light, it's easier.