I am getting Dart iron eagle 64cc heads that are set up for over .600 lift. I want to get a Comp Cams XE cam between .507-.51 lift(284). Now, Should I go hydraulic or hydraulic roller. Hyd roller will cost me about another 250 bucks in lifters.

What are the cheapest components that i can rely on for a hyd/roller setup. I am looking in Jegs/summit and its a little hard to keep track

So if I you think I can just go hydraulic I'll get good Roller rockers and a cheapy set of hyd lifters (pending i don't go roller), not to mention the budget comp pushrods.

If you think my setup is biting off more than I can chew tell me what you think I should get with the new heads.
:hail: Thanks a lot guys!!!:hail:

--Dan

 

you get what you pay for. i'd buy lunati, comp, crane in that order and forget most everyone else, not that there aren'r soem good cam grinders out there. for roller rockers only ones i'd consider other than jesel is comp.

 

What ede said.

Going to a roller cam usually means more than just a cam and roller lifters.

Some roller cams need shorter pushrods since the lifters are taller. Roller cams need bigger valve springs which means the heads need to be machined to use these springs. Depending on the installed height of the spring, longer valves may be needed. It all depends on the cam choice and what the heads can be machined to.

As mentioned already, you get what you pay for. My car originally had Crane Gold rockers. When I broke one after dropping a valve I went to Comp Pro Magnum stainless rockers. They cost more but will also take more abuse.

I'm considering building a Comp Eliminator dragster over the next few years. The entire valvetrain will have to be titanium to withstand the abuses. There's nothing cheap about that.

Cheap parts may sound like a deal at first but when they fail, you'll wish you bought better parts. There's a limit to each part. Stock type replacement parts are designed for stock applications.

I run a flat tappet hydraulic cam. I could have gone with cheap factory type hydraulic lifters but decided to go with Comp Cams Pro Magnum lifters because of the high rpms I shift at.

Personally if you have to stick to a budget, stay away from the die cast rockers. Extrude Aluminum are only slightly more expensive but are a much better rocker.

 

What do you guys think about the Crower hydraulic roller lifters?

 

crower makes good stuff, it's just not on my "A" list

 

By taking your advice i found a way to spend what i wanted.
Here's the setup:

DART IRON EAGLE HEADS -2.05” INTAKE VALVES -1.60 EXHAUST VALVES -STAINLESS VALVES -ANGLE PLUGS - 10 DEGREE VALVE SPRING RETAINERS -215 CC RUNNERS -64 CC CHAMBER HEADS -COMP CAM PUSHROD GUIDE PLATES -COMP CAM 3/8” SCREW IN STUDS -VALVE SPRINGS ARE 1.473 INSTALLED (HEIGHT GOOD TO OVER .600 LIFT)

Now, with that I am getting a Comp XE cam (284, hydraulic) for 5.07/5.10 lift. (I am getting the cam and lifter kit)
--Tell me if i should not get the cam and lifter kit, but should get different lifters, I just figured they would be matched well from the kit

As for valvetrain components, Harland Sharp Roller rockers (1.5 ratio) 3/8" stud. And Crane cams heat treated chromoly steel pushrods. I was told by Sean at Jegs (great guy) that with those heads and cam I will only need stock length pushrods.

What do you guys think?

Thanks
--Dan

 

i'd say you'll need +.100 longer push rods ,i'd not run harland sharp rockers and it's .510 not 5.10 lift, big differance.

 

it's early here. What rockers do you recommend besides Jesel? i want to keep the rockers under $250 if i absolutely need to.
About the pushrods, how did you guess +.100? Do you try to match pushrod length with the cam, heads or both? If I get those pushrods, how will I know that they are to big and i need stock length. I am asking because I never swapped heads/cam before and I am using this as a way to kill the weekends.

Thanks ede!

--Dan