Build me a 350
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Build me a 350
Ok, sometime in the near future I will be building up a 350 on the budget of ~$2000. It is going to be carbed. I already have the carb but I need everything else unless I use my 305 heads. What would you do with this budget?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 285
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Also, I went to a couple of junkyards today and none had any 4 bolt main 350 shortblocks! WTF is with that??? For such a widely used motor I would think they are easier to find... How much do they usually go for? BTW, I wanted the shortblock so I would already have the crank.
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
a complete motor around here would run $125. complete from intake to oil pan. so i would say 50-100 bucks for just a shortblock from a salvage yard..
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,353
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you really gotta have a 4-bolt main, keep looking, they're still around, but a 2-bolt main would work fine for a budget eng.
Used block= ~$50
Vat,maganaflux,bore,hone= ~$250
Master eng rebuild kit (or a stroker kit) $350-500. (powerhouse.com)
Cam, lifters, springs, roller rockers=~$400
Good aftermarket iron heads off Ebay =~$800
New Intake=~$150 Used intake =~$75
Timing gears/chain kit.=$100-150
Water pump=~$50-75
It adds up quick!
Keep in mind; you still may need to beef up the exhaust, cooling system, chassis, tranny, and rear-end.
Used block= ~$50
Vat,maganaflux,bore,hone= ~$250
Master eng rebuild kit (or a stroker kit) $350-500. (powerhouse.com)
Cam, lifters, springs, roller rockers=~$400
Good aftermarket iron heads off Ebay =~$800
New Intake=~$150 Used intake =~$75
Timing gears/chain kit.=$100-150
Water pump=~$50-75
It adds up quick!
Keep in mind; you still may need to beef up the exhaust, cooling system, chassis, tranny, and rear-end.
Last edited by ZZ28ZZ; Sep 5, 2002 at 11:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 285
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Well from what I've seen in high hp applications a 4 bolt seems to be the best bet so that's why I wanted one. But a 2 bolt would hold up fine?
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,231
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From: Manassas, VA
Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...tart&catid=120
I have been debating the same thing. Well kinda..... I Could get some vortech heads, manifold, cam.... and spend a load of money or just buy a crate engine for about the same price. So I'm looking at that 330HP 350 and its looking a little better then heads and a cam. Easier to install too.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...tart&catid=120
I have been debating the same thing. Well kinda..... I Could get some vortech heads, manifold, cam.... and spend a load of money or just buy a crate engine for about the same price. So I'm looking at that 330HP 350 and its looking a little better then heads and a cam. Easier to install too.
Last edited by redbird_400; Sep 5, 2002 at 04:30 PM.
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I have been debating the same thing. Well kinda..... I Could get some vortech heads, manifold, cam.... and spend a load of money or just buy a crate engine for about the same price. So I'm looking at that 330HP 350 and its looking a little better then heads and a cam. Easier to install too
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,306
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
hey, just to be argumentative my friends got a 7500 rpm spinning 2-bolt main pushing 750+ horsepower!
the main factor of the engine was cheap horsepower. simply big everything, big cam, big intake, big CC cast iron heads, big compression etc... its very easy to build a cheap high revving horsepower monster... its by no means a street car though... and he changes bearings about every 50-80 runs just to tear it open and check things out. it is a 2 bolt block however, and even though I think hes crazy using it, he hasnt had a problem yet. his last block was a 2-bolt, but the powerglide spit 2nd gear, the engine free-revved, and snapped all his valves off (1 piece manleys!) off at the face which did considerable damage at 12'000 rpms (it was a 10K rpm monster! this new engine is a kitty kat compared to the old one... )
just some background info, dont try this at home kids
the guy is 57 years old, does this for a living. (building engines that is, not racing) and has been doing since he was 19. (he helped my build my 500 horsepower blown 355 small block! so far... so good!)
the main factor of the engine was cheap horsepower. simply big everything, big cam, big intake, big CC cast iron heads, big compression etc... its very easy to build a cheap high revving horsepower monster... its by no means a street car though... and he changes bearings about every 50-80 runs just to tear it open and check things out. it is a 2 bolt block however, and even though I think hes crazy using it, he hasnt had a problem yet. his last block was a 2-bolt, but the powerglide spit 2nd gear, the engine free-revved, and snapped all his valves off (1 piece manleys!) off at the face which did considerable damage at 12'000 rpms (it was a 10K rpm monster! this new engine is a kitty kat compared to the old one... )
just some background info, dont try this at home kids
the guy is 57 years old, does this for a living. (building engines that is, not racing) and has been doing since he was 19. (he helped my build my 500 horsepower blown 355 small block! so far... so good!)
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