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Build me a 350

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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 03:03 PM
  #1  
pauldaniel26's Avatar
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Build me a 350

Ok, sometime in the near future I will be building up a 350 on the budget of ~$2000. It is going to be carbed. I already have the carb but I need everything else unless I use my 305 heads. What would you do with this budget?
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 03:15 PM
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pauldaniel26's Avatar
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Also, I went to a couple of junkyards today and none had any 4 bolt main 350 shortblocks! WTF is with that??? For such a widely used motor I would think they are easier to find... How much do they usually go for? BTW, I wanted the shortblock so I would already have the crank.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 03:40 PM
  #3  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
a complete motor around here would run $125. complete from intake to oil pan. so i would say 50-100 bucks for just a shortblock from a salvage yard..
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:03 PM
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ZZ28ZZ's Avatar
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If you really gotta have a 4-bolt main, keep looking, they're still around, but a 2-bolt main would work fine for a budget eng.

Used block= ~$50
Vat,maganaflux,bore,hone= ~$250
Master eng rebuild kit (or a stroker kit) $350-500. (powerhouse.com)
Cam, lifters, springs, roller rockers=~$400
Good aftermarket iron heads off Ebay =~$800
New Intake=~$150 Used intake =~$75
Timing gears/chain kit.=$100-150
Water pump=~$50-75

It adds up quick!

Keep in mind; you still may need to beef up the exhaust, cooling system, chassis, tranny, and rear-end.

Last edited by ZZ28ZZ; Sep 5, 2002 at 11:41 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:08 PM
  #5  
pauldaniel26's Avatar
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Well from what I've seen in high hp applications a 4 bolt seems to be the best bet so that's why I wanted one. But a 2 bolt would hold up fine?
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:18 PM
  #6  
redbird_400's Avatar
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From: Manassas, VA
Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...tart&catid=120


I have been debating the same thing. Well kinda..... I Could get some vortech heads, manifold, cam.... and spend a load of money or just buy a crate engine for about the same price. So I'm looking at that 330HP 350 and its looking a little better then heads and a cam. Easier to install too.

Last edited by redbird_400; Sep 5, 2002 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:43 PM
  #7  
pauldaniel26's Avatar
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From: Allentown, PA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 355 in the works...
Transmission: T5
Are 400 sbc's hard to come by at junkyards?
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 05:06 PM
  #8  
Hulk0202's Avatar
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From: Tampa, Fl
I have been debating the same thing. Well kinda..... I Could get some vortech heads, manifold, cam.... and spend a load of money or just buy a crate engine for about the same price. So I'm looking at that 330HP 350 and its looking a little better then heads and a cam. Easier to install too
If your talking aboutr adding that stuff to a short block you already have, your way off on the price. Hell, Im building a 4-bolt 383 with vortecs and I'm still coming in under the price of a chevy crate engine. Plus Ill pound one of those little 330horse jobs. 330 at the flywheel isnt all that impressive either. By the way, I'm only using the 4-bolt because I got it cheap. I started a post on this a while back and asked for REAL stories about blowing out the main caps because they had a 2-bolt instead of four. Im still waiting for the first story.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 05:08 PM
  #9  
Hulk0202's Avatar
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From: Tampa, Fl
Are 400 sbc's hard to come by at junkyards?
Depends where you are. Some will say "Hell yeah". Others will tell you where to find four just sitting in a bone yard.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 09:40 PM
  #10  
gmgod's Avatar
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
Well, will somone please tell me where a standard bore 2-bolt 400 motor is; or hell just the block.
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 11:58 PM
  #11  
ZZ28ZZ's Avatar
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
A 2-bolt main should be OK till you reach >500HP and >7000RPMs.
Don't think you'll be seeing those #s on a $2K build-up.
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 07:29 PM
  #12  
Hulk0202's Avatar
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From: Tampa, Fl
Well put.
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 12:19 AM
  #13  
Kingtal0n's Avatar
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
hey, just to be argumentative my friends got a 7500 rpm spinning 2-bolt main pushing 750+ horsepower!
the main factor of the engine was cheap horsepower. simply big everything, big cam, big intake, big CC cast iron heads, big compression etc... its very easy to build a cheap high revving horsepower monster... its by no means a street car though... and he changes bearings about every 50-80 runs just to tear it open and check things out. it is a 2 bolt block however, and even though I think hes crazy using it, he hasnt had a problem yet. his last block was a 2-bolt, but the powerglide spit 2nd gear, the engine free-revved, and snapped all his valves off (1 piece manleys!) off at the face which did considerable damage at 12'000 rpms (it was a 10K rpm monster! this new engine is a kitty kat compared to the old one... )
just some background info, dont try this at home kids
the guy is 57 years old, does this for a living. (building engines that is, not racing) and has been doing since he was 19. (he helped my build my 500 horsepower blown 355 small block! so far... so good!)
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