Rocker adjustment... need help
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Rocker adjustment... need help
had my heads on my 305 rebuilt... put everything back on, but now i do not know how to adjust the rockers ...
some one said i need to turn the crank over.. and watch the rods seat down then tighten them... but im not sure.
some one want to shed some light for me? thanks
some one said i need to turn the crank over.. and watch the rods seat down then tighten them... but im not sure.
some one want to shed some light for me? thanks
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Christiansburg, VA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73:1
First, place the engine at 0 degres BTDC. The mark on the balancer should be lined up w/ zero on the timing indicator. Also, the distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one spark plug wire. Both valves on number one should be shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now, turn the crank one complete revolution so that the timing mark is at zero again.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve
The adjustment is to tighten the rocker arm until there is zero lash. This is where there is JUST THE FIRST amount of resistace to turning the pushrod. Then, tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
Let me know if u need any more help.
-Carl
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now, turn the crank one complete revolution so that the timing mark is at zero again.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve
The adjustment is to tighten the rocker arm until there is zero lash. This is where there is JUST THE FIRST amount of resistace to turning the pushrod. Then, tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
Let me know if u need any more help.
-Carl
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,055
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From: Naples, FL
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by Truckman
First, place the engine at 0 degres BTDC. The mark on the balancer should be lined up w/ zero on the timing indicator. Also, the distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one spark plug wire. Both valves on number one should be shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now, turn the crank one complete revolution so that the timing mark is at zero again.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve
The adjustment is to tighten the rocker arm until there is zero lash. This is where there is JUST THE FIRST amount of resistace to turning the pushrod. Then, tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
Let me know if u need any more help.
-Carl
First, place the engine at 0 degres BTDC. The mark on the balancer should be lined up w/ zero on the timing indicator. Also, the distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one spark plug wire. Both valves on number one should be shut.
Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve
Now, turn the crank one complete revolution so that the timing mark is at zero again.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve
The adjustment is to tighten the rocker arm until there is zero lash. This is where there is JUST THE FIRST amount of resistace to turning the pushrod. Then, tighten 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn.
Let me know if u need any more help.
-Carl
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guys ... you are awesome... i could not have done this with out each of your advice..
i think its very very unselfish and giving that each of you took the time to help me out. i really enjoy this organization, and i havent seen too many people give thanks when they get advice..
so really.. thanks to each of you. thank you for taking the time to explain, in depth, on how to help.
i think its very very unselfish and giving that each of you took the time to help me out. i really enjoy this organization, and i havent seen too many people give thanks when they get advice..
so really.. thanks to each of you. thank you for taking the time to explain, in depth, on how to help.
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,565
Likes: 10
From: Texas
Car: 1992 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305CID (LB9)
Transmission: World Class T5
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt, 4.10 gears
Does any one have step by step instructions on doing this adjustment without pulling the engine out of the car. I've noticed that alot of stuff is in the way of getting the valve covers off. I need to access the passenger side. I know the worst one it seems to work on. Any advice is of course appreciated.
Presuming you have an '87, the AIR injection check valve and hose, AIR diverter valve assembly, and alternator may have to be removed. Actually, the alternator only needs to have the belt removed and then swing out on its mountings. Once that is clear, you can remove the right rocker cover.
The AIR diverter valve only has two self-tapping screws. and there is but one hose clamp on the AIR check valve hose. The check valve itself may take some penetrating oil to get moving, and should have anti-seize applied to the threads when it gets reassembled.
The AIR diverter valve only has two self-tapping screws. and there is but one hose clamp on the AIR check valve hose. The check valve itself may take some penetrating oil to get moving, and should have anti-seize applied to the threads when it gets reassembled.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,823
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
does this technique also apply to doing the adjustment while the engine is running? ie. loosen adjuster nut till the rocker clatters then tighten it till it stops. then tighten, in 1/4 turn increments, a total of 1/2 a turn???? is this the proper way to adjust valves while the engine is running?? thanks for an insight or info 
sorry to highjack your post...

sorry to highjack your post...
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