Yeah! It happened earlier today. I thought a wire had set on the header and burned through, cuz I was breaking in my cam, and was running the engine at 2G and the next thing I know my wires are on fire. I bought a new set today, and went to keep it running, and they appeared to be turning a dark orange as though they were burning up from the inside out (they were very hot as well). But they only appeared that way and felt very hot all down along the engine, they were perfectly normal up at the distributor. The engine was running overall a lil hot between 200-220. The valves from the cam job need to be adjusted, and timing is not adjusted either. Anyone have any ideas?? Need help asap. Thanks

 

Holy crap, bursting into flames, I've had several burn before but never that.

Set the timing, most likely you're running lean, the headers arent' glowing are they.?

 

what does it mean when the headers are glowing? I had that happen to me when I broke in my cam. Looked like two particular tubes on each side, the others seemed ok. Got a big 750 on it with 8psi of fuel, and my timing was about 0 TDC when it happend. After that I advanced it to 16 where it runs faster but that was during the day so I don't know if it fixed the glowing pipes. Could my plug heat range be too hot? My other car never did that.

 

Means you're running lean or their is an exh restriction, but since you did a cam install, I would say it's 99% your're running lean, and just need to correct the timing.

By the way, see you're from NJ, check out my sig and the links.

 

Sounds like the ignition timing is way retarded.
This too-late, too-slow burn will heat up your headers real fast.
A lean mixture will also cause the headers to run hot.
Some possible causes are intake manifold vacuum leaks.

Late ignition timing is the most probable cause.

 

That would explain why I haven't noticed it after I advanced the timing. The only reason I had it set at 0 TDC in the first place was because after i did the cam and put the distributor back in I was so paranoid that I'd be off a tooth so I made sure everything was lined up with #1 at TDC, cause I knew almost any engine will at least start with that. Comp kinda scared me in their "distructions" when they say something to the effect of "if you don't start the motor in the first 30 seconds of cranking you need to re-lube the cam".

Getting back to the topic at hand, there's no way your wires could be glowing hot FROM the engine end of the wire, seeing as how the current is distributed from the distributor. I think they are too close to the headers.

 

you didnt remove your ground straps did you?

 

I have the wires all loomed up around the headers, granted they weren't in perfect position becuase they couldn't be bolted to the valve cover since I have to adjust the rockers, but yeah, the wires were close to the headers, and they were turning orange and very very hot. Up at the distributor they were perfectly normal. Could the spark plugs be grounding out too easily, or one other thing I was thinking is this: I have my distributor hardwired directly to the battery because my car woudln't start. It would crank and crank and not start, and I had no gagues. I checked my spark, and had none, so I replaced the starter switch on the steering column, and it still didn't fix it, so my local mechaninc said to just run a hardwire for the distributor to the battery, so I did and it worked perfectly fine for like 2 weeks. Then I took it off the road to do the cam and trans, and now it's doing this. So could the coil have gone bad and be causing this?? That it's sending out too many amps or something and that the power is being backed up at the plugs?? I don't konw, i'm cooming up with stupid ideas, but i'm at a loss and I need to get soemthign figured out soon. The headers were normal while running also. I do not know where the timing is set though. Anyone have any other ideas?? Thanks guys

 

while the car is running try turning the distributor counter clockwise a little, see if the idle speeds up. You really need to see what your timing is at. You have the same motor as me and it likes 16-20 degrees advance. Riley might be on to something about the ground straps not being re-installed properly, if you think your plugs are getting hot because of the ground. I'm not sure on the locations of your straps, mine was bolted to the back of the manifold. Worse comes to worse pay a shop $50 for diagnosis, that way you have someone to complain to if they tell you the wrong cause. Everyone that I've asked has laughed at me thinking I wasn't serious, so I don't think it's a common problem you have there. Let us know what ends up being the problem.

 

Check all of your grounds located on the back of each cylinder head. The firewall ground should be on the passenger side.

 

since the system is high voltage/low amperage, teh wires woudlnt burn because of the increased resistance. Having your timing too retarded will have thge same effect. I had mine improperly set and it reduced my wires to molten goo. This is because combustion is still taking place when the valves open, hence the headers get red hot. I advanced the timing and boom, headers no longer destroy my wires, well, as long as theyre not touching.

 

92RSFivePointSlow: So you have the same engine as I do?? Out of curiosity, you said it likes 16-20 degrees advance... what RPM do you set that at?? I know the book you get with the engine says optimal is 10 degrees at 700 RPMs, but what do you set it at. And also, what other kind of set up do you have on the enigne, and what's your drivetrain?? So overall, I'm lookin at what's your best Quarter Time?? Ok, well lemme know, i'm gonna try the valves and timing and see what that does for me.

 

I set my advance at +16 at idle, which for me is about 700rpm with the vaccuum line plugged. I stay at 16 because I know it's more then the engine is supposed to run with, and I don't trust the curve on my old HEI distributor. But, the idle increases when I advance it past 16, meaning it makes more power too. I've got a 230/230 @.050, .480/.480 cam, stealth intake, holley 750 carb, headers, and dual exhaust with 3" flowmasters. Using MSD wires and bosch #7 platnums. The heads suck as you know, but I have a pair of heads in the mail that will give me about 9.9:1 compression. Has 3.73 posi, a TH200-4R trans, and weighs 3700 with me in it. Due to the stock torque converter I only run a 14.8 @94mph, with a best of a 2.3 60ft. Yours should be alot faster cause you have a lighter car and a better cam for the motor. I'll have it running a 13.9 before it snows, I swear!

 

That sucks. I melted the spark plug wires on my T/A when I cooked the last motor, so don't feel bad...yes, MELTED the boot.

Do you have an MSD? MSD ignitions are only compatible with certain types of spark plugs wires, I think due to resistance (heat)...if not, I'd say check you timing, and make sure you timing connector is plugged in and the ECM is adjusting the spark accordingly. Try it at 10 deg. BTDC if all else fails, and retard if it pings.