OK my car starts up, turns over no problem, but then dies right away. i can keep starting it, but then it just dies again. it seems that pressing on the gas does not help at all to "keep it alive".

would it be like fuel pump? of course thats just speculation cuz im a novice. any ideas? please help!

thanks.

 

First, if your date is more impressed with your car than you, you're already in trouble...

Second, it would help to know what year/engine/fuel system you have. I'm guessing it's a fuel delivery issue, but it could be ignition depending on your modedl.

 

I'm just going to take a guess here that you have a MAF car since you didn't specify. If I'm wrong, don't bother reading on. Have you tried cleaning the sensor, starting without it? Are you getting a code 33 or 34? Any engine lights at all?

 

OK. Its a 1986 trans am. 305 engine, not sure the code. fuel injection. hope that helps if not what else. its got high mileage 150k. not sure whats been changed on it as i just got it a few months ago but it seems most everything is original.

it doesnt sputter and die or anything, just starts up, then rpms go back down continuously and she turns off.

thanks.

 

i do not believe the dummy lights are on when the car is actually turned on but i will double check.

 

Okay so it is a MAF car. Try starting it with the sensor disconnected and seeing if you can get it to run by giving it some gas. Does the check engine light flash when you start the car? It needs to, otherwise the bulb is probably burned out and not sending you codes.

 

can you give me specifics on where the sensor is located and what it looks like. appreciate it.

the check engine light is on when i turn the key but then goes off when the car starts. (bulb works)

 

ok well now i cant start my car at all - the starter turns the belt but it wont start up...

could be me but it seem like its not getting fuel..

any ideas?

 

Do you hear the fuel pump priming the line? When you get in the car, turn the key to run, but not crank. Listen. You should hear the fuel pump buzz for about two seconds. My next suggestion would be to check the fuel pressure if you have a guage to test it with.

 

I do not hear any noise or buzz coming from the rear when i turn the key to run!!

from what i read you can have a bad fuel pump relay or fuse. i know where i can check the fuse but where is the relay?

also i read you can jump the aldl to test the fuel pump. do you supply ground or 12V to pin G?? i tried ground and nothing happened.

i kinda remember a "whirring" coming from the back when i accelerated before this happened. would this be any clue to the pump goign bad?

thanks fellas.

 

My car does the same thing right now too although not all the time. For me it is the fuel pump going out. It makes a jingling noise and the relays and fuses are ok. Sounds to me like your fuel pump is going.

 

That's not a good thing, but in order for the pump to run its prime cycle, the ignition needs to be turned off for at least 20 seconds. Turning back on before then will not proviede the two-second pump cycle.

Try looking here:



To operate the pump, you must provide a 12VDC + (positive) source to the 'G' terminal:



That can be normal, or a sign that the pump is failing, filter clogging, or the pickup screen is clogging. Until you determine whether the pump is getting power, it really doesn't mean much.

 

i had a somewhat similar prob turns out my injectors needed to be cleaned.

 

I have an idea, "IF" gas is coming to engine, the distributor have a "resistance" that is used after the sucessfull start up, when in start up, the baterie power is being drain by the starter so the dist will use the remainings lets say 9volts. Then after the start up the baterie have 14volts to give with alternator, but for the dist parts not to be worn to fast, the "resistance" will lower that voltage back to, 9 or 10 volts i dont recal...

I dont remember the name of the resistance and i dont know where it is located, but i know the ignition syst on my car is designed like this...

Well maybe! why not.
if you say it's crank , start up, and stop right away... no more fire!?

 

i had the exact same problem...it is the maf or the burn off relay...id check the burn off before replacing the maf or ull be out another 300 bucks...replace the maf urself with a already modifed one from tpis...my suggestion

 

I believe you are describing the older ignition systems with a ballast resistor. Very few systems use the resistor any more, GM HEI systems included.

 

If its the MAF the check engine light should come on.

 

well i pressed down on the schrader valve and ..... nothing! (sorry guys i didnt know about that earlier).

i will try replacing the relay and jumping pin G next...

i got a bad feeling its the pump though

 

Don't overlook the relay, fuse, tank connections, and the fuel filter.

 

did you get it fixed yet? waiting to see how this turns out!

 

well i switched the relay and tried jumping the pin and neither helped.

so i took to mechanic who confirmed that it was the pump.

FYI, he said he banged on the trunk area and it started up again for a minute then shut off again which is part of his diagnosis on the pump.

$95 for labor / $95 for parts, think thats a good deal, and hopefully monday she will be up and running again.

thanks for all the input!

 

Actually, that is a pretty good price for changing the fuel pump, considering that the exhaust, track bar and brace, fuel tank, filler neck, and at least one shock will have to be removed and reinstalled. That's a lot of labor for $95.00. Make sure you get that quote in writing before he starts, since the price is likely to go WAAAY up once the mechanic realizes what he's in for.

Before the car is finished, you may want to check in with the mechanic to make sure the exhaust gets realigned correctly, and that the track bar and brace are properly adjusted.

And you might want to specify an AC replacement fuel pump instead of whatever their parts supplier might send them. Expect to pay a little more for that - something more like $150.00. You should also have them install a new fuel pickup "sock" filter and new fuel filter while they're at it. It will be worth the minimal (about $20) extra cost in the long run.

 

this isnt true just to let u know...mine went twice with no SES light