installing a damper?
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From: Hayward, CA
Car: 91 camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: T56
Does anyone know of a way to install a damper without buying expensive tools to do it. There is no rental place around here that rents the tool.
j/k Do a search, I remember reading a post a long time ago about making an installer tool from a long threaded rod or something like that. I decided to suck it up and buy an installer tool when I found one for $35. I've used it several times, so it's pretty much paid for itself. Oh, and a word of advice, oil the threads on the installer tool, it helps the balancer go on easier.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 893
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From: Hayward, CA
Car: 91 camaro
Engine: 383
Transmission: T56
I got bored and did a search for you.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=balancer
A couple different people here mention how to make your own tool. Also, as for heating up the balancer, that should be fine. I had some problems a while back getting my balancer to go on, even with the installer tool. I called Scat, my crank manufacturer, and they suggested heating the balancer to about 400*. That seemed a little hot to me, considering it has that rubber ring in it, but they assured me that they do it all the time without a problem.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...light=balancerA couple different people here mention how to make your own tool. Also, as for heating up the balancer, that should be fine. I had some problems a while back getting my balancer to go on, even with the installer tool. I called Scat, my crank manufacturer, and they suggested heating the balancer to about 400*. That seemed a little hot to me, considering it has that rubber ring in it, but they assured me that they do it all the time without a problem.
damper tool
Thanks viscious z I will try the threaded rod and heat idea I already planned on the threaded rod trick didnt think of the heat thanks for the info. I doubt that even 400 degrees would be to hot for the rubber in the damper. I think that 300 will do the trick though. I will let you know how it comes out.
if you can afford expensive tools why not buy cheap ones? don't remember what mine cost but it was around 20 dollars from a dealer at Carlisle. not using one and messing something up will only cost you more.
The threaded rod, washer and nut worked great no heat used at all threaded the 7/16 NF rod in put the damper on the crank and drew the damper on to the crank witha nut and a crescent wrench the rod and nut cost me less than 5 dollars at a hardware store. Thanks for your suggestions and help.
7/16-20 threaded rod, 5" long, two mating nuts, and a washer - three bucks at your favorite hardware store.
Installing your hub the correct way without screwing up your crank - priceless...
If you look closely, your hardware store will probably also have 14x1.25 threaded rod by the foot and make all the piston stops you'll ever need for two bucks.
Installing your hub the correct way without screwing up your crank - priceless...
If you look closely, your hardware store will probably also have 14x1.25 threaded rod by the foot and make all the piston stops you'll ever need for two bucks.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
It's nice to see our moderators are back in thinkin'/ helpin' mode.
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
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Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Good to see you got it on with no problems.
The threaded rod, nuts and washers are the best thing. Just DON'T use a bolt to try and suck it in. You'll strip the threads out of the end of the crank. Installing the threaded rod in the crank is just used as a base. Tightening the nut down onto a couple of washers will force the balancer onto the crank with no damage to anything.
I work on diesel trucks. Many of the gears and balancers are installed by heating them up. 250-300* is all thats required. A temperature gun makes it easy. You could just put the balancer in the oven set at 300* for an hour.
I use the threaded rod and nut method on my own engine.
The threaded rod, nuts and washers are the best thing. Just DON'T use a bolt to try and suck it in. You'll strip the threads out of the end of the crank. Installing the threaded rod in the crank is just used as a base. Tightening the nut down onto a couple of washers will force the balancer onto the crank with no damage to anything.
I work on diesel trucks. Many of the gears and balancers are installed by heating them up. 250-300* is all thats required. A temperature gun makes it easy. You could just put the balancer in the oven set at 300* for an hour.
I use the threaded rod and nut method on my own engine.
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
It's nice to see our moderators are back in thinkin'/ helpin' mode.
It's nice to see our moderators are back in thinkin'/ helpin' mode.
But after all, we are PEOPLE, too. None of us is perfect - at least not yet, anyway. We're still allowed to be imperfect and make mistakes once in a while. And we're not getting paid much for this, either. I hear that first check is still in the mail....
Any of you guys seen your's yet? Didn't think so.
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