Any 4WD guru's in here??
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Any 4WD guru's in here??
Gotta problem with my 2000 S-10. It won't engage into 4HI. It has the 4.3 Vortec with the electronic transfer case.
This is kinda pi**ing me off, cause the stupid thing only has 33,000 on it, and this is the third time I've had to take it in for warranty work. I could've used it last night with the snow, but it would'nt engage at all. I stopped the truck and managed to engage 4LO - but that's a pretty useless gear for driving.
Any ideas on quick things I can check?? - BTW - If I shift to neutral at a stop, and press the 4HI button, both the 4HI and LO buttons will flash for like 3 seconds - then it reverts back to 2HI again, if that matters. Any help appreciated. Supposed to snow again tonite!!
This is kinda pi**ing me off, cause the stupid thing only has 33,000 on it, and this is the third time I've had to take it in for warranty work. I could've used it last night with the snow, but it would'nt engage at all. I stopped the truck and managed to engage 4LO - but that's a pretty useless gear for driving.
Any ideas on quick things I can check?? - BTW - If I shift to neutral at a stop, and press the 4HI button, both the 4HI and LO buttons will flash for like 3 seconds - then it reverts back to 2HI again, if that matters. Any help appreciated. Supposed to snow again tonite!!
Confuzed,
There are a few possibilities.
There is a transfer case control module (TCCM) on your truck. The 2000 model may have incorporated it into the PCM, but the functions (and error codes) are still there. The system uses and encoder/motor to position and sense the range selector for the transfer case. These aren't cheap at all.
There is also the possibility of it simply being the control switch on the dash, or wiring at the transfer case/PCM, and those are a lot easier to test and cheaper than the encoder/motor, even the rebuilt ones.
However, the flashing lights for the system probably indicate a problem with the unit sensing its position and may not be a good omen.
In either case, at only 33,000 miles total, your truck and all its problems should be covered under warranty. The $430 encoder/motor, switch, all labor, and diagnostics should be at the expense of the dealer for the first 3 years / 36,000 miles at a minimum, probably longer. Since you reported the probelm before the expiration of the warranty, it might be their problem forever. I wouldn't even bother with checking anything except for a different dealer servie department - one that can read the diagnostic flow chart in the manual for your truck. Where are you going for service, anyway? I would take the truck back in and suggest they closely inspect the encoder/motor and control system. They have the manuals and a diagnostic link for your vehicle, so it should be easy enough. (Remind them of the TSB on encoders in case they forgot.)
Incidentally, I'll be driving up through that fresh snow tonight on my way to the northern tip. Mr. Colt and I are going bear hunting, and Mr. Sherman and company will hopefully be doing the same thing. If I see a newer S-Truck stuck in a snowbank, my dog and I might stop to help them out with the AWD.
There are a few possibilities.
There is a transfer case control module (TCCM) on your truck. The 2000 model may have incorporated it into the PCM, but the functions (and error codes) are still there. The system uses and encoder/motor to position and sense the range selector for the transfer case. These aren't cheap at all.
There is also the possibility of it simply being the control switch on the dash, or wiring at the transfer case/PCM, and those are a lot easier to test and cheaper than the encoder/motor, even the rebuilt ones.
However, the flashing lights for the system probably indicate a problem with the unit sensing its position and may not be a good omen.
In either case, at only 33,000 miles total, your truck and all its problems should be covered under warranty. The $430 encoder/motor, switch, all labor, and diagnostics should be at the expense of the dealer for the first 3 years / 36,000 miles at a minimum, probably longer. Since you reported the probelm before the expiration of the warranty, it might be their problem forever. I wouldn't even bother with checking anything except for a different dealer servie department - one that can read the diagnostic flow chart in the manual for your truck. Where are you going for service, anyway? I would take the truck back in and suggest they closely inspect the encoder/motor and control system. They have the manuals and a diagnostic link for your vehicle, so it should be easy enough. (Remind them of the TSB on encoders in case they forgot.)
Incidentally, I'll be driving up through that fresh snow tonight on my way to the northern tip. Mr. Colt and I are going bear hunting, and Mr. Sherman and company will hopefully be doing the same thing. If I see a newer S-Truck stuck in a snowbank, my dog and I might stop to help them out with the AWD.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,211
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From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
Hi Vader - It seems by your answer you've been around these a few times. Thanks for the reply.
Sorry, I may have mislead you a bit. This is my third time taking it in for repairs, but not for this problem. First at around 12,000 miles, the fuel sensor went bad and had to be replaced. Then it was clunking in the front end at around 25,000. Now this.
I get it serviced at Car Max - I'll see what they have to say. Thanks to you - I now know the possibilities of what could be wrong. I'm not sure about what model of transfer case I have, but as far as the flashing lights go, It has always done that just before it engages - except now it refuses to. When it's in drive and I'm moving, I get no response when I attempt to go into 4HI at all. No click, no flashing, nothing.
So far as I know, I have'nt changed fluid in the case yet, but I don't recall the owner's manual even mentioning it. I just don't want one of those situations where they'll try and pin this as being my fault or lack of maintenance. I do all the basic maintenance myself so far as oil changes, lube etc...
But when I elect to do the basic stuff myself, I can afford a decent grade of synthetic oil and such. Not whatever these shops have in the barrels.
i just made an appt. for tuesday to get it looked at. Thanks again for the info, and Happy Bear Hunting!!
P.S. - Ice fishin's not bad around these parts either! Few more weeks.....:hail:
Sorry, I may have mislead you a bit. This is my third time taking it in for repairs, but not for this problem. First at around 12,000 miles, the fuel sensor went bad and had to be replaced. Then it was clunking in the front end at around 25,000. Now this.
I get it serviced at Car Max - I'll see what they have to say. Thanks to you - I now know the possibilities of what could be wrong. I'm not sure about what model of transfer case I have, but as far as the flashing lights go, It has always done that just before it engages - except now it refuses to. When it's in drive and I'm moving, I get no response when I attempt to go into 4HI at all. No click, no flashing, nothing.
So far as I know, I have'nt changed fluid in the case yet, but I don't recall the owner's manual even mentioning it. I just don't want one of those situations where they'll try and pin this as being my fault or lack of maintenance. I do all the basic maintenance myself so far as oil changes, lube etc...
But when I elect to do the basic stuff myself, I can afford a decent grade of synthetic oil and such. Not whatever these shops have in the barrels.
i just made an appt. for tuesday to get it looked at. Thanks again for the info, and Happy Bear Hunting!!
P.S. - Ice fishin's not bad around these parts either! Few more weeks.....:hail:
From what I've seen working on these 4wd systems I would be really willing to bet you've got a bad Transfer case control module. Its basically in a default mode you can still get 2hi and 4lo and thats it. The module is located in behind the passenger side front kick panel bolted to the cowl. With this being a 2000 model and only 33K i would definitely take it to a dealer and see if you have any warranty left(you might be out on time) and see what can be done. If the dealership wont do anything for you and if youre the original owner call the 1-800 number for chevy and complain to them they just might help you out. The number should be in the owners manual. Good Luck!
Originally posted by Confuzed1
... P.S. - Ice fishin's not bad around these parts either! Few more weeks.....:hail:
... P.S. - Ice fishin's not bad around these parts either! Few more weeks.....:hail:
Any luck on the transfer case?
Gearhead,
Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if the module was still separate or part of the PCM now. Pretty soon they'll have the figgin' radio in there, too.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,211
Likes: 3
From: GO PACK GO
Car: 83Z28 HO
Engine: Magnacharged Dart Little M 408
Transmission: G Force 5 speed
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" w/Detroit Trutrac
The ice was a little over 3" thick, and I figured I'd be too tired to fish by the time I chopped a hole big enough for the boat.
Thanks for the replies. I took it to the shop, and it turned out to be what they call a Encoder Motor. I guess that's what does the actual shifting on the xfer case. Of course, they don't have one in stock, and I have to bring it back.
Since I work afternoons, it makes it a PITA, cause now I'll be sitting in a boring waiting room for 2+ hours when they get the part in.
At least it's still covered under warranty.
The system uses and encoder/motor to position and sense the range selector for the transfer case. These aren't cheap at all.
Thanx again everyone.
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O.K. So I got lucky on that one.
As for doing you own service, I'm right there with you. During relocation a couple of months ago, I had my wife take one vehicle in for a synthetic oil change, lube, etc. since I didn't have the time or facilities. $76 later, they had poured in 4½ quarts of Mobil 1, installed some no-name filter, and greased the chassis with what was probably NOT synthetic. On top of that, there was a $4 labor surcharge for a "synthetic oil change" whatever difference that makes - as if it were more work to change synthetic oil.
I can do the same thing with Mobil 1 10W30, an AC/Delco filter, and Mobil 1 grease for about $20.
The only thing to be cautious about is logging your service dates/mileage so you have a warranty leg to stand on. It also helps to check with the dealer periodically on TSBs regarding your vehicle. There may be problems that only they are aware of and don't publish widely, so visiting them can be beneficial. One example of that is what I discovered on my 2000 AWD Astro. The factory had machining tolerance problems on the transfer case (clearances got too close) so the case would make a shuddering noise under moderate acceleration under some conditions. The "fix" was a new (synthetic) transfer case oil. Had I gone in and complained about the noise, they would have changed the oil for free. Since I prefer to do it myself at the recomended mileage, I had to buy the Auto-Trak II oil for $8/quart. That wasn't as annoying as not knowing about the change in required oil formulation.
You may have similar issues, so it might pay to ask. There's only one CarMax/Circuit City in the Dairyland that I'm aware of, so I've got an idea of where your service is happening. They SHOULD have access to the GM TSB and parts database, but they might not. Make sure you visit a service center that has the factory service info available to get a complete list of possible TSBs for your vehicle.
As for doing you own service, I'm right there with you. During relocation a couple of months ago, I had my wife take one vehicle in for a synthetic oil change, lube, etc. since I didn't have the time or facilities. $76 later, they had poured in 4½ quarts of Mobil 1, installed some no-name filter, and greased the chassis with what was probably NOT synthetic. On top of that, there was a $4 labor surcharge for a "synthetic oil change" whatever difference that makes - as if it were more work to change synthetic oil.
I can do the same thing with Mobil 1 10W30, an AC/Delco filter, and Mobil 1 grease for about $20. The only thing to be cautious about is logging your service dates/mileage so you have a warranty leg to stand on. It also helps to check with the dealer periodically on TSBs regarding your vehicle. There may be problems that only they are aware of and don't publish widely, so visiting them can be beneficial. One example of that is what I discovered on my 2000 AWD Astro. The factory had machining tolerance problems on the transfer case (clearances got too close) so the case would make a shuddering noise under moderate acceleration under some conditions. The "fix" was a new (synthetic) transfer case oil. Had I gone in and complained about the noise, they would have changed the oil for free. Since I prefer to do it myself at the recomended mileage, I had to buy the Auto-Trak II oil for $8/quart. That wasn't as annoying as not knowing about the change in required oil formulation.
You may have similar issues, so it might pay to ask. There's only one CarMax/Circuit City in the Dairyland that I'm aware of, so I've got an idea of where your service is happening. They SHOULD have access to the GM TSB and parts database, but they might not. Make sure you visit a service center that has the factory service info available to get a complete list of possible TSBs for your vehicle.
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