383 motor options???
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
383 motor options???
OK, I will be changing from a 350 TPI to a carbed 383. I could use my block and buy a stroker crank, or I have found a 4-bolt main 350 already freshly bored 30 over with a steel 400 crank already ground and in the block. All I will have to do to it is hone it out and clearance the block for what ever rods I buy.
Here is the kicker. I can get the block and 400 crank for like 250-275. With my block, I will have to have it bored and prepped, buy a new crank and have wasted parts left over.
My question is would it be better to buy the older block and fix it, or just use my L98 block?
I will be buying new heads, intake, carb, cam, and lifters. If I buy the old block then I will still have a complete running motor to sell.
what do you guys think.
Here is the kicker. I can get the block and 400 crank for like 250-275. With my block, I will have to have it bored and prepped, buy a new crank and have wasted parts left over.
My question is would it be better to buy the older block and fix it, or just use my L98 block?
I will be buying new heads, intake, carb, cam, and lifters. If I buy the old block then I will still have a complete running motor to sell.
what do you guys think.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Use your L98 block.
I'm going to assume that the other block is a 2-piece rear main seal, driver's side dipstick, non-roller (of course) older one; and that the crank is a stock 400 crank. Your motor is a 1-piece RMS (you'd have to change the flywheel), pass side dipstick, roller block. If you use your existing block you won't need lifters, since you already should have roller ones.
It will end up costing about the same either way, but the end product from your L98 block will be superior.
I'm going to assume that the other block is a 2-piece rear main seal, driver's side dipstick, non-roller (of course) older one; and that the crank is a stock 400 crank. Your motor is a 1-piece RMS (you'd have to change the flywheel), pass side dipstick, roller block. If you use your existing block you won't need lifters, since you already should have roller ones.
It will end up costing about the same either way, but the end product from your L98 block will be superior.
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton AB Canada
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
That's a good point regarding the roller lifters, going back to flat tappets would be stepping back in camshaft technology.
I gather you're goal is to go faster, but are you sold on tossing the TPI to go with a carburetor? It's yours to do what you like of course, but I couldn't pull a functioning TPI induction system and replace it with a carb.
That smooth-running fuel-injected engine just cranks over and idles for you when it's cold and rainy out, the carbureted one has you fiddling with a choke and waiting for it to warm up...
Surely a roller-cammed 383 TPI could be the best of both worlds? It would be a torque monster, and probably better resale, if you're worried about that.
OK I'm done ranting, I must be getting old...
I gather you're goal is to go faster, but are you sold on tossing the TPI to go with a carburetor? It's yours to do what you like of course, but I couldn't pull a functioning TPI induction system and replace it with a carb.
That smooth-running fuel-injected engine just cranks over and idles for you when it's cold and rainy out, the carbureted one has you fiddling with a choke and waiting for it to warm up...
Surely a roller-cammed 383 TPI could be the best of both worlds? It would be a torque monster, and probably better resale, if you're worried about that.
OK I'm done ranting, I must be getting old...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Well, I definatly will be going carb. And I will be going roller no mater which block I use. I would be changing the lifters anyway even on the L98 to upgraded performance lifters.
This car will not be a daily driver. Just on occasions, so im not worried about cold starts. I am building it to run in the 1/8 mile maybe a few weekends a month.
The 400 crank is stock, but it is a stock steel crank not cast.
This car will not be a daily driver. Just on occasions, so im not worried about cold starts. I am building it to run in the 1/8 mile maybe a few weekends a month.
The 400 crank is stock, but it is a stock steel crank not cast.
Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton AB Canada
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: 355 4 bbl
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.73 L/S
Originally posted by bluegrassz
The 400 crank is stock, but it is a stock steel crank not cast.
The 400 crank is stock, but it is a stock steel crank not cast.
There were no production 400 cranks made of steel, just cast nodular iron - aftermarket steel perhaps?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by rustydawg
Is the fellow selling the crank saying that or have you seen it for yourself?
There were no production 400 cranks made of steel, just cast nodular iron - aftermarket steel perhaps?
Is the fellow selling the crank saying that or have you seen it for yourself?
There were no production 400 cranks made of steel, just cast nodular iron - aftermarket steel perhaps?
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