hi to all.
i'm rebuilding my old 350 carburated engine (old model, 4 bolts 2 piece rear seal)
i want to buy bearings and the numbers are:
1- connecting rod.- 7555
7-32
DA-49

2- mains.- 8201
7-39 K1
DAB 86

i got no idea what do they mean, it doesn't say anywhere .010 nor .020...nothing, so should i suppose they are standard?

and last but not least, the numbers on the CAM are:
GM20
0650
D19
i know is stock but i would like to know the specs so as to decide what to use with a compression ratio of 10.XX
please if theres any website where i can check the cam numbers at least, that will be great.
thanks to all for your time.
Fernando.

 

Generally if you don't see the usual .010, 0.30 on the crank and rod bearings that would mean they're standard bearings.

No idea how to look up the cam numbers though. Buy and aftermarket cam like the $80 dollar ones from Summit You can try www.mortec.com for the cam numbers, but I doubt it...

 

Unfortunatly the numbers on factory gm bearings and camshafts
don't tell you much.
Unless the crank is absolutly mint condition it should be reground and use undersized bearings.

About $125(Can) to get it machined.
The only way to really identify the factory cam is to measure the lift.
A factory 350 cam will have .390" intake and .410 ex lift.

A good replacement performance camshaft for a street
performance motor with 10:1 compression would be one with
.440" to .490" lift and 214* to 230* duration @.050"
If your going to use a stock converter and say 2.73 gears
then select a cam on the mild side. IF your going to use a mid 3.xx gear like 3.42 and a higher stall and want more horsepower use one around 224 to 230*
@.050". If you get much beyond 230* @.050" then power brake operation becomes and issue.
Usually your better off with the milder grinds overall.
New performance valve springs are a must.
Check out this site: For Cam and lifter sets and bearings etc.

www.amotion.com Accelerated Motion. In B.C. Canada.
He has all the popular cam grinds and his cam and lifter sets
are top notch. They are $ priced $ right too.
He ships COD to your door. (Postal COD)
Select the cam you want and email him for a price quote.
Good stuff.

 

can i ask why you say this? i was able to get away with just having my 305 crank polished. it still measured within allowable tolerances.

edit... clicked "submit" too quickly...

wouldn't you want to have the crank checked by the machinist first? then determine if the crank needed to be ground?

 

Yes if the crank is mint you can often just have it polished.
But it can appear mint with no scratches and be out of round or tapered etc. yes it should be checked for this by a machinist.

Hey if it will take just a polish, more power to ya. But most of the time it needs to be turned. The difference in price is not worth compromizing the rebuild just to stay standard/ standard.
Re ground Under ground cranks are just as durable. Maybe more so.

 

measure the mains and pins and make any bearing and machining choices based on that. the numbers on the backs of the bearing mean nothing to you, you want to take some measurements and go from there.

 

yep.
i'll send the crank to the shop for inspection/repair, i want also to change the cam for something that will give me 185 psi. of crancking compression but with say...470 lift, so the duration will be the number so look for, my present cam gives me only 140 psi.
there should be a math. formula somewhere so i can get my numbers, or a program somewhere.
anyway that cam is going where it belongs (garbagge)
thanks to all of you.
CAMAROS FOREVER:hail:

 

Well If you have 140lbs with a stock cam ,you'll have less with a hi performance cam. (more duration= less cranking pressure)
I hope you're going to rebuild with flat top pistons instead
of the stock dished pistons. This will increase your compression ratio and get your cranking cylinder pressure up.
For a high performance street 350 motor you want to build for about 9.8 to 10:1 compression. There is a limit that the available fuel octane will allow before you get detonation and knock.
The compression ratio is also effected by the cylinder head cc, piston/ deck clearance and head gasket thickness.
Generally you build with a flat top piston , a decked block,
a .040" gasket and a 64cc head. for a 350 based motor.
If you want to make some horsepower you should upgrade the cylinder heads., Either by buying new/ better flowing ones or improveing your present ones. This is the basis of where to start
inplanning a motor build, not the cam shaft.
How much power do you want? select a cylinder head that will do the numbers. A low performance head will not make big power, ( without reworking) even with all the best camshaft and best wishes. If you have 76cc open chamber head, you can buy domed pistons., but it is usually better to start with a flat top and smaller chamber head.
Most stock motors have low performance, large chamber,
small valve, low compression heads.
What is your total budget and what cylinder head do you have now? Casting #?

 

salut F-BIRD.
the old setting was dished pistons (020 over), an the most ridiculous heads, 76cc. 1.74 / 1.50 valves.
i'm going to install my fresh overhauled, 416 heads pocket ported by myself, so with stock gaskets etc, will give me a hair above 10:1 compression.
so now i want 185psi of cranking, the million dollar question is: who's the winning cam?.
i want that pressure or as close as posible.
thanks again brother, i'll wait for your oppinion.
Fernando.

 

WG-1159 (Cam only)
WG-1159Kg
280-2H
Hyd C
214 224
280 290
.442” .465”
107/117

http://www.blueracer.cranecams.com/

Here in Canada , Accelerated Motion is about the best deal
going in cam and lifter kits.
he has all the popular grinds including this one.
His stuff is top notch and he'll ship cod to your door (postal cod.)
www.amotion.com

His version of that cam is
214/224 .444/.467 288/298 112 PN #19811-21578

This cam will give you the cranking psi your looking for and match you cylinder head flow . It's a great overall street performance cam too.
I hope you're upgrading the valves to 1.94x1.60 on those
416 heads. You'll be dissapointed with the stock valves.
really limits the flow/ horsepower.

 

actually, i run out of juice (money) long ago, the heads are done already, but they are 1.84 / 1.50, so i know it wont be a 10sec. car but with the smaller chamber (58cc.) and the slightly bigger I. valve "it cant be worst".
i have another engine, 87, 5.7 (350) single piece seal, the crank is busted, so i will replace it, the heads are 76cc. but valves are 1.94 I. and i think 1.60 for E. this proyect i'll put together with dome pistons to get 10:1 compression, but that will be in a couple of years, in the meantime, i'll just stick to this one and experiment.
thanks again.
i.ll visit the page and keep you posted.
Fernando.:hail: