Here's the situation:
Get in the car and turn the key, all the dash lights come on, radio comes on, etc. Engine does not turn. Hit the key again engine still does not turn. Third time is the charm, engine turns over and starts.. Drive, it is all normal...

This happend 3 times the last few days. The first time it happened, we had bad rains here so i just assumed something got wet... Car sat all weekend, then had the problem Monday morning, Monday after work, and this morning (Tuesday).

Any ideas what to look for?? I don't want to get stranded somewhere....

Thanks

 

There is a possablity that it is the VATS (Vehicle Anti THeft) system. Your key or ignition may be worn and starting to act up. How many miles on your car??

 

109k miles.... I thought that too, cause the security lights is one of the ones to come on, but, I thought that when VATS was activated, it took like 10 minutes before it would let you try again. I am waiting no more than 10 seconds or so...

 

Do you get a clicking sound when it does not turn over?

 

Nope no clicking... It is as though I have turned the ignition On. When I turn the key to start, absolutely nothig happens, no click, no lights dim, no nothing.. When the starter does finally enguage, everything is normal, no odd sounds, no feeling of a weak starter, it just fires right up...

 

Just in case you may have a safety switch problem, try starting in NEUTRAL instead of PARK. (IIRC, all the ragtops came with automatics, not a T-5).

 

I didn't even realize it would start in neutral.. I will try that and let you know...

For my info.. What points are the safety switch connected to?? Is there one contact on the brake pedal?? and the other to make sure the car is in Park (or Neutral)?

Yes it is an automatic, as were all factory ragtops.

 

I get that clicking sound and after 10 or more tries, it fires right up!! Why does it make that click and how can I fix it??? I've been fighting this problem for some time now. I have a new battery, new starter, and new GM positive bat. terminal cable, and it still happens. I have had this problem even when the car was bone stock and still had the automatic in it. Shaqwell mentioned that there is a little relay inside the driver-side kick panel, does this have anything to do with it? I had VATS removed when I ordered the custom chip for my new combo, so I do know that VATS is a non-issue.

Someone help please!!

Thanks,
Mike (1bad91Z)

 

I had the same problem for a very long time. Even after I replaced the starter. Several people told me it was the starter and I resisted that notion because I had already replaced it. Finally I replaced the starter again and it cleared up the problem. Guess I got a bad reman. starter. Stranger things have happened. If that did not work, I have heard the ministarters are magnificent. Several people cleared up the problem with one of those.

 

Ok, new info... started fine this morning... Tonight as I was leaving work, it did not start. I rolled down the windows (actually it was warm enough I put the top down ) and listened as I hit the key again. One sturdy click, then the Voltage meter dropped as I held the key to start. Hit the key again, same click, and meter dropping... Tried to start in Neutral, but no click no nothing, put it back in drive, mashed the brake a couple of times, hit the key, got a click, volts went down, then it fired up...

Anyone else got any ideas??

Thanks

 

CHANGE YOUR STARTER

 

When the key is turned to start, power is sent (via one of the small wires) to the starter solenoid (mounted to starter). The power flows into a coil of wire and creates magnetism. The magnetism pulls/pushes a piston which is connected to an arm. The arm pushes the starter gear into (and engages with) the flywheel/flexplate.
After the piston has traveled far enough to engage the starter gear, it makes contact with the high power post (which is connected straight to the battery) inside the solenoid .
It also makes contact with the high power post that connects to the starter. This allows current to flow from the batt into starter windings and armature. A metal disc that's mechanically connected to the piston (but electrically insulated from the piston) is what actually contacts the posts, not the piston.

Once all this happens, the eng begins to crank.

When you hear the click, it's the solenoid piston is engaging the starter gear.
If nothing else happens, a good contact was not made between the disc and the 2 high power posts inside the solenoid. After a long period, the disc and the posts gets burned from arcing and can corrode making it a poor contactor.

The posts and disc can be cleaned with a wire brush, put usually give trouble again soon after.
Since most GM solenoids are pretty cheap, it's best to replace the solenoid and be done with it.

 

So change the solenoid and not the starter first??

Any parts store solenoid ok, or shoudl I buy GM??

Thanks

 

Unless you see obvious damage to the starter, it's probably OK.
Be sure to check the gear and flywheel/flexplate teeth for obvious damage/wear.
My original starter went almost 20 years and >250K miles.
The solenoid has been replaced a few times.

Can't go wrong with GM parts, although they are usually more expensive.
As far as aftermarket, there's quite a few good companys.
Blue Streak, Wells, Bendix plus a few others I can't think of at the moment.

Third gen V8 cars seem to have problems with the factory type starters. Do a search on this board. You'll see what I mean.
Might want to consider a mini starter if you plan on keeping the car for long. They're more expensive, but are pretty much trouble free from what I've heard. That's what I'll be buying soon.

 

How hard is it to change the solenoid on a T-56 starter? I have another new re-man. T-56 starter still have same clicking! Will a new GM AC-Delco solenoid work or bolt up to a O'reiley's re-man starter? At this point, I'm willing to give anything a try! I just dont have the dough right now for a mini-starter. It's just hard to believe that all the damn starters that I put in that car were bad (several BIG automatic starters and going on 3 T-56 starters)!!




Mike (1bad91Z)

 

If your having that much trouble with mutiple starters, your issue is probably somewhere else.
I don't have any experience with VATS, but if the solenoid is clicking, I would think your past all the VATs and safety interlock stuff.

You didn't mention if you've checked/replaced the batt ground cable.

Unless the ground cable is new, I'd replace it. Corrosion from the batt can travel up the wire underneath the insulation and cause high resistance, but the outside will look fine. Also want to be sure the ground cable is connected to the block at the correct place and the connection is clean/tight.

A voltmeter and a couple of jumper wires with alligator clips will tell you real quick where the problem is.

 

Ok, replaced the whole starter setup since I could not find just a selenoid. I replaced it with a wells part. Now it's worse... It does the same thing when I hit the key (hear 1 click then nothing). Instead of 3 or 4 hits of the key, I need like 10 or more now....

Where else could the problem be?? I doubt it is the safety switches, cause I wouldn't hear the click of the selenoid would I??

Thanks...

 

Yep, I'm having the same problem (upto 10 clicks now myself!)

Try this, I found that when it clicks, if you jump the car, it will start right away. Dont know what this means, but it's an observation at least!

Mike (1bad91Z)

 

Alright, here is the scoop with me. I have had my Camaro since 97...Not much has been wrong with it until last night. I left it outside for around 30 min. after drving it. I went back outside to go out, and it just seemed to not start . Not even a roll over. Although it did make a clicking sound. Does anyone know what the problem is????