what do you guys suggest i use on the front/ rear of the intake?
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,940
Likes: 2
From: Glendale, AZ
Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
Just a little dab of black silicone in the joints where the cork meets the intake gasket should be all you need if all the surfaces are prepped and cleaned.
i usually use the china wall gasket, but if you're set on rtv all i use is ultracopper or ultragrey ,both cost a bit more than the run of the mill black or clear but i believe they do a better job of sealing and last longer. actually i've used ultracopper for head gaskets, not with a head gasket but as a head gasket.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Don't use the china wall gaskets (my advice).... They will pop out of place 90% of the time and a pure silicone bead will work better when done right.
Use GM RTV Silicone Sealant Gray, part # 12346240 . Done more intakes than I care to remember and never had a problem with that silicone. Getting the intake back off can be interesting though at times as it REALLY holds..... I have also used the Permatex Ultra Black in a pinch and it has worked out fine as well. Do a search on this subject and you will get more information than you can possibly imagine. But the key is the cleanliness of the surfaces and the use of a thin layer of silicone on the intake itself and a thick bead on the china walls of the block itself.
Ultra Copper on an intake gasket job??????
Use GM RTV Silicone Sealant Gray, part # 12346240 . Done more intakes than I care to remember and never had a problem with that silicone. Getting the intake back off can be interesting though at times as it REALLY holds..... I have also used the Permatex Ultra Black in a pinch and it has worked out fine as well. Do a search on this subject and you will get more information than you can possibly imagine. But the key is the cleanliness of the surfaces and the use of a thin layer of silicone on the intake itself and a thick bead on the china walls of the block itself.
Ultra Copper on an intake gasket job??????
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Never had to use more than a little dab of RTV sealant on each corner where the end gasket meets the side gaskets.
Clean and de-oil the surfaces with "pro brake cleaner" before installing the gaskets. Other wise the gasket can "slip and slide"
on the oily surface. Thats usually the cause of the end gaskets blowing out.
Clean and de-oil the surfaces with "pro brake cleaner" before installing the gaskets. Other wise the gasket can "slip and slide"
on the oily surface. Thats usually the cause of the end gaskets blowing out.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 547
Likes: 3
From: Culleoka, Tn
Car: 85 iroc,96 z28,96 Ram 2500,69RR
Engine: 383 with AFR heads.
Transmission: richmond 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 1991 w/1LE.auburn pro series.2.73's
its by permatex-its called "the right stuff" been out a couple years-oem approved. one way its packaged is in a metal can like plastic cheese in a can and its dispensed the same way-by bending the nozzle over and it just oozes out. stuff dries to the toughest silicone bead-ck. out this link and see what they say about end seals-http://www.permatex.com/right_stuff/right_stuff3.asp i have been using it for a couple years and it is what they say. more expensive, but you look like a saint after a couple years and there isnt even seeping going on.
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