I pulled the distributor on my car. Before I did it I marked EVERYTHING to try to make sure I got it back in right. Now I have it back together and am trying to start it, but it will not start. It seems like the motor is kicking back against the starter. So I pulled of the cap and brought the timing mark up to 6B and the rotor is not even CLOSE to where the #1 plug wire goes.
Everytime I pull the distributor I end up with this same problem. You would think I would learn how to do it right but for some reason it just escapes me !!
Anyway, does anyone have any idea what the problem is ?? am I 180 off on my distributor ? Any suggestions on how to avoid this problem in the future ??

THANKS Guys !!

 

Z,

Notice that when you install the distributor, the rotor turns clockwise about 15-20° as the driven gear meshes with the camshaft gear. When you get teh #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke, align the oil pump shaft with a long screwdriver, then back the rotor counter-clockwise about 15-20° before you drop it into position. The final alignment should be close engough for arguments' sake. Finish up by setting the timing with your light.

In practice, it really doesn't matter where you install the distributor, as long as the plug wires are connected in the correct order and the correct position when the coil fires. You can run the engine with the rotor 180° off the stock position, 45° off, 90° off, 22° off - wherever you want. It's just a little easier to have it in the stock position for reference and troubleshooting later.

 

When you bring #1 to tdc look and see what terminal the rotor points to. That is where the #1 spark plug wire should be. Then just follow the chevrolet firing order from there. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

Or, you could pull the distributor and start over.:rockon:

 

Here's an oddball question. What are the specs on the bolt that holds the distributor in place? I pulled my the other day and it appears as if I have lost the bolt. I need to go the the parts store or the hardware store and get another one but I need to know its length, width and whether it is course or fine thread.

 

Hmm...Mine was crossthreaded in there, so we drilled, tapped, and heli-coiled it, with a (Metric) M8*1.25, I believe. But...this is really quite irrelevent to your situation :sillylol: So uhh....in effect, I dunno.

What you really want to know is it's size, thread pitch, and length. You SHOULD be able to find this somewhere on Google, *** knows everything else is there...

 

it's a 3/8 corse thred bolt (the same as everything elts on the engine) not really sure the length, but I'd guess about 1"

 

It's actually quite different from the rest of the bolts on the intake. I know that because the bolt that holds the coil down is actually too small because it falls right down into the hole. The intake bolts are quite a bit larger because they do not thread in there. So it's somewhere in between.

 

3/8"-16 x 1", based on the ever reliable Mk I eyeballs.

 

I'm going to head to Autozone and pick up a bolt at lunch. I also need an exhaust pipe expander so that I can get my stupid Edelbrock Y pipe installed. But, that's another story.

I'll post the bolt size if I find out for certain what it is. That way nobody else will be forced to go through this same heart wrenching experience.

 

Charyou: I search Google about 40 times a day, I don't know why I didn't think to look there. I did look there after you suggested it, but came up empty. BTW - I love the picture in your sig. That show is funny as hell.

99Hawk120: Good call! You were right, except that I got a 3/4" bolt which worked great. My car is once again making noise, especially since I am running straight through the headers. I just installed the headers and the cat back has not been welded in yet. I don't think the neighbors like me right about now! :sillylol:

 

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