I usually have to put water into the resevior every month or so, I check it when I check the oil. Yesterday it was empty which is unusual since on average it stays just blow the line. Whn I saw that I checked the radiator and there wasnt a drop of water in it nor did I see a puddle under the car. So I filled up the radiator and the resevior. I was out the whole day and the car wasnt running hot, so I forgot about it. Later that night when I tried to turn on the heater it only blew cold air. and when I got home the radiator was empty again. the next morning (this morning) I got under the car and saw a trickle coming from a tiny hole in the water pump, it didnt look like it was damaged just a perfect little circle on the under side. the coolant is leaking from the (weep) hole, the coolant leaking down the lower radiator hose and onto the ground. I let the car sit today and it doesnt seem like its losing water only when the car is on.
any help is appreciated thank you

 

Pull the dipstick out or remove the oil filler cap. If you see yellowish color mixed in with the oil, you're leaking coolant internally. Time to replace the head gasket or heads. I replaced both on my car about a year ago for the same reason.

 

check the oil still brownish black, normal. I just took it out for a quick ride to let it warm up. At first the air blew cold, but it warmed up and now operates normally. also there doesnt appear to be any more coolant coming out the weep hole. I also forget to mention this morning when by the time I got the the gas station and checked the radiator and resevior it was low so I figured I'd go the kragen auto and by some radiator and engine block sealant. I put it in the radiator and left the car parked today. I know this was a temporary fix I need to find out whats really going on.

 

Do a coolant pressure test. I dunno how effective it will be now that you put that stuff in. But if you're losing coolant it's gotta be going somewhere. When one of my heads was cracked I had no external leaks and no overheating problems. I figured I had an internal leak because everytime the engine ran, the water in the expansion tank would bubble.

 

I've isolated the leak to the weep hole on the water pump. it still flows out but not very much at a time just drips. less than a drop a second. I dont have any tools to do a pressure test what would I need, and thanks for replying so fast.

 

Doesn't hold water = leak

Cure = replace the water pump



No heat = no water in the heater core (or radiator) because it all leaked out

Cure = replace the water pump



Water drips out of water pump = water pump is bad

Cure = replace the water pump



I think you might want to replace the water pump, and don't bother with testing it, you already know it leaks

 

If for some strange reason changing the water pump doesn't solve your problems, there are a couple of easy ways to check for leaky head gaskets. 1. Start the car, wait for it to warm up, and stand behind the tailpipes. Lots of white smoke and moisture is a good sign; sometimes you can even smell the coolant. 2. With car cold, remove radiator cap and start car. Wait for car to warm up and watch what's happening in the radiator. If the system is sealed, the coolant will flow smoothly. If there is a leaky gasket somewhere, ie: head gasket or intake gasket, you will see bubbles due to the fact the engine is sucking in air from the leaky gasket.

 

I think you have to remember that when you are watching the hole in the water pump with the car at idle, it does not tell you want is happening at 60mph. When the engines runs at road operating speeds water is probably being forced out the small whole at a larger rate. With a little pressure behind it, it would not take too long to loose 2 or 3 gallons. And our cars only hold about 4.5 gals.

 

I took the car out today, to school. Water still dripped out of the hole but not that much. Everytime I got out of the car I looked underneath and checked the water level, it went down very slowly. Throughout the whole day I'd say my reservoir level went down about 1 cup. but the water still trickles out the weep hole.
Just to be on the safe side I'm going to replace the water pump on saturday. Since I just got the car last year and I dont know the last time it was replaced. I'm gonna get the new pump from kragen, should I get the "New O.E." or the "New Hi Performance O.E."? or does it even matter?
Also What kinda job am I looking at I'm probably going to do it myself, with sporadic help from my dad. Thanks for any help

Terrence

 

Is the new one you're getting aluminum? That's what I'd go with next time I have to replace my water pump or radiator. It's a good idea if you wanna shed some pounds.

 

I dont know about aluminum Kragen sells them for $180 the hi performance OE costs $50.

 

Don't know about what Kragen sells (every chain store water pump I've had has been complete ****e), but www.stewartcomponents.com sells a kickass Stage 1 pump for $69. Cured all my heating problems (car runs wayyyy cooler in traffic and such) and it has outlasted all the other pumps I've had. Put them on both the thirdgens I've had recently, and will be putting one on all future ones I get...

 

Since you put that coolant leak stop in your system, FLUSH the system before you put the new water pump on. The leak stop has a habit of plugging up heater cores since the passages in them are much smaller than in a radiator.

 

anyone got any tips on what should be done when changing the pump, like things I shouldn't do? I'm going to replace the belt too. anyone out there tackled this job?
any help is apreciated

GO RAIDERS!!

 

Don't forget to remove all of the old gasket from the block and don't over tighten the belts.

 

yah good idea on replacing they do that right before they fail. good to do it now before your stranded somewhere. i'v done it the hard part is getting to it. i can't tell you anymore than the manual

 

The pump I was going to get came with 1 gasket is there anymore than that? Thanks




G:rockon: RAIDERS

 

SBC engines have 2 water pump gaskets. I used to have an old Cutlass with an Oldsmobile 350; that one was a one-piece gasket, as the whole water pump sealed against the timing cover. The pump for chevy motors is enclosed with inlet and outlet ports = 2 small gaskets somewhat similar in shape to a thermostat gasket, but smaller.

 

Eric, the olds 350 does that, too? My 2.8 V6 has that same kind of pump; the whole back of the pump is a damn gasket. Worst part is, my timing chain cover is aluminum. That's such a pain in the butt to scrape, since I try my best to avoid gouging the aluminum chain cover.

Another thought as to leaks; I had a coolant leak once, couldn't find anything wrong- no drips on the ground. One hot day, I was doing an oil change, so i got home, and popped the hood. I smelled coolant, and saw some steam. Turns out my exhaust manifold burnt a pinhole into my heater hose. When the cooling system was under pressure from hot coolant, the coolant was pissing right onto the exhaust manifold and evaporating- and left no drip marks on the ground.

If you suspect a leak like that, you can throw some baby powder around. A leak will leave a line in the baby powder.