which screw in studs do i need that do not need other maching to the heads, other than being tapped. and where to get them thanks.

Kevin

 

The heads need machined.It doesnt matter what brand or type used.

 

all screw in studs require machining for the stud to tighten against the head.

 

there are "repair" studa avaiable that require nothing more than removing the pull out stud and tapping the hole. as the name implies they're made to replace a stud that has pulled out. your best bet is to mill the head and use ARP or similar screw in studs.

 

why exactly do they require milling to the tops for?

 

So that the hex part of the stud has a flat, true surface in the correct plane to screw down against, instead of just a random blob of as-cast metal spooge.

 

Best thing to do is take them to a machine shop and have it done. Tell them you want to change to screw in studs, and have the spring pockets machined for bigger springs.

Wont cost much, and you can upgrade your springs for a bigger cam. I think my machine shop quoted the work for 100 bucks. That also is machining for guide plates.

 

well i dont wanna dump alot of money in these heads because there stock castings that have been ported, i plan on getting some aluminum, sometime next year, and i just wanna get it where i can drive it everyday until then. Do i have to have a machine shop flatten the tops out, or can i do it myself, with something.

thanks

Kevin

 

besides giving the hex a flat surface to contace you need to take .4 off the stud boss because of the differance in height between pull outs and screw in studs

 

69,

If you are not planning to use push rod guide plates, you do not need to mill the top of the stud boss flat. There are two common types of screwed studs available. One type has a hex collar, and the other does not.



When using a hex-collared stud, the tops of the stud boss on the heads should be flat to mate the collar. The "replacement" stud does not require this machining, and can be installed with the engine assembled. They are a step better than pinning the studs in place with roll pins, and can be replaced easily if damaged/worn.

Rocker Stud Replacement.pdf

 

I would personally not use a "repair" stud in heads that are already off the motor and in the shop. They're intended as a work-around get-by for an assembled, perfectly running motor with a sudden failure, to avoid tear-down and machine work. They have an unsettling tendency to back themselves out, since there's really hot a whole lot holding them in. You can't Loctite tham because they have to have sealer on the threads since they go into water.

For the pennies of difference in the cost of materials and labor, you'd be better off to do it right and get the kind with the hex.