I have done searches but can't find. I want to make sure i got everything right before I start.

You need a

400 crank - Scat 9-350-3750-5700L (3.75 Stroke w/ 5.7 rods)
350 rods - Scat 4340 I Beams or Stock 5.7
383 pistons - TRW Forged pistons.


now what about flexplate? and balancer?? what do you use? do you have to use special ones. I have both a stock 350 and a 400 flexplate/balancer

am I correct?

thanks

 

stop before you order those rods..........

i have the same kit and even with a small base circle cam those rods still had to be grinded to clear.....

now the pistons you need are trw l2491f30 and speedpro r9902 rings for them.........

the crank you spoke of is an external balance crank... you will have to use a 87 up flexplate if it's for a 1 peice seal....

now i personally think you could use the stock 87 up 350 balancer, because when i had mine balanced with a 400 external 8.8 balancer it was way off and took alot of metal removal..... i think with a 87up it might have made it eaiser but fo ahead and get the 400 one.......

besides block clearencing , a small base circle cam will be needed.......

as for the rods get some thats clearence for strokers to save alot of heartache and make sure you have at least .060 rod block clearence and .040 cam clearence on everything....... more would be better......

 

so basicly whatever I do I need to assemble the motor to clearance everything and then take it to the machine shop to have them balance it and everything? and what is a small circled cam??? I'm a little confused as to what everybody means w/ that.

thanks

 

The problem with a "stroker" motor made with those cheap chinesium rods, is two-fold. First, the outer bolt head will hit the oil pan rail and the bottom of the cylinder toward the outside of the block; and second, the inner bolt head will hit the bottom of the cylinder toward the inside of the block, and will invade the cylindrical volume occupied by the cam, and hit the cam. So you have to grind a whole bunch of material off of them just to get them to jam into our block at all; but to get them to clear the cam, you have to use a cam that's smaller diameter than stock, which weakens it.

Sure, they're 5.7" rods; sure, the crank has a 3.75" stroke; but that doesn't mean they'll fit anything. Buy that cheap stuff at your own risk. I guarantee you Scat won't come out and make it fit for you, and they won't give you your money back if you get disgusted since it's not warranteed to fit, and they won't buy you a new block if you ruin yours trying to graunch their crap into it.

Stock 400 rods have shorter bolts, with a special shape on their heads, just so they'll fit. Cheap "stroker" rods (actually stock 350 profile rods) don't have these adaptations. In fact, you can't pull the cam out of a stock 400 with the crank in certain positions, because the bearing journal is bigger than the lobes; so the cam will pull part way out, and stop when it hits a rod. Very confusing to someone who has never worked with a 400 before.

Almost any cap screw rod will fit in a "stroker" application, but almost any nut-and-bolt rod won't, or at best will fit only with a great deal of grinding.

You get what you pay for. Don't buy things like that from the low bidder.

 

Get the scat stroker rods with the 7/16 cap screw bolts.I used them and my engine builder said they are not that bad for the price.Also alot of people use eagle H-beams.

 

I used 5.7" Eagle H-beams for my stroker. No problems with the cam. My machine shop HIGHLY recommended the Eagle h-beams. Worth every penny if you ask me (and you didn't).

Ben

 

I also tried using the stock type rods with my stroker. Long story-short, they wouldn't work with my LPE 74211 cam.

I went with Eagle H-beams. Got them on E-bay for $350. They cleared the cam with room to spare..

The pistons that were bought for the stock type rods wouldn't work with the eagle "floating pin" rods, so I had to buy another set of pistons..

The oil pan rails have to be clearanced a little more with the Eagle rods, but it's nothing that can't be done in a few hrs with a magic marker and a die grinder.

 

Is all that crank leverage worth it?

 

.

 

Is all that crank leverage worth it? I mean, wouldn't it just be easier just to change out your rear?

 

so what about using the scat crank, eagle H beam rods and some forged 383 pistons? I plan on running a zz4 cam for awhile till I get the whole prom tuning thing down.

thanks

Josh

 

Stroker crank=$150
H-beam rods=$350
Speed Pro Hypers=$180
Balancing=$200
Used Accel runners=$300
Accel Intake=$400
LPE 74211 cam=$325
Head work=$450
Set of 24lb injectors=$80
Pro Mag roller rockers=$260
EEPROM burning kit=$300
Wide Band o2 kit=$400

Being able to roast the tires from a rolling start= Priceless

Seriously though, it all depends on what you want and how bad you want it.
I want torque, lots of torque, and I want it bad..

I also want decent gas mileage for my 80+ mile round trip to work and back. The low gears would kill my mileage.

 

87transam5.7tpi>>>
The crank and rods look good.
I wouldn't buy forged pistions unless I was planning on a power adder, or really high RPMs. Some good quality hypers would be fine on a street eng.

My original pistons (Powerhouse brand) hit the crank counterweights (and it was all sold as a kit ).

The Speed Pro skirts are shorter and clear easily. Something you might wanna keep in mind while shopping for pistons...

 

Engine balancing is not done with an assembled engine. If you take them a complete engine you will be charged heavly to disassemble it.

All they shold need are the crank, rods and pistons. All apart too.

 

Ya I knew that, I should have clarified. I meant put together, take apart for machine shop thne put back to gether. sorry :-/

 

I had a company named speedo-o-motive build me a 383 eagle rod short block and I think they forgot the oil pan rail clearancing because it ate a rod bearing within a few 100 miles and it had a nice mark on the rail. Of course they totaly denied any wrong doing so I ate the cost of rebuild and headache of dealing with it.

BTW If you ever spin a rod bearing get the rods resized along with the crank, don't ask me what happens if you don't.

 

lol..... tell me about it!!

We were like "WTF???" and " I just don't get it!!!" ....

 

Hook the drill up to it and pull until it comes out