I am replacing a lock cylinder and have a couple of questions. First, behind the plastic dust cover is a metal plate (canceling cam) between you and the mounting screws in the cloumn, does this have to be removed? or can you just rotate it a bit and remove the mounting screw for the lock cylinder?
Second, if it has to be removed, where do you find the odd U-shaped tool necessary for the removal?
If any one has a detailed explaination of how this is done it would be greatly appreciated (tech type article)?
I believe my problem lies in the lock cylinder as it's not starting at all now and I can turn the cylinder without the key in the igition? Any ideas or advise would help, thanks for your time and patience......

1986 Trans Am stock (for now)
305 c.i. engine, carb
700r4 automatic transmission

 

I'm not quite sure what you talking about, i did mine about 4 years ago, but i did not need any special tools other then a steering wheel puller.

 

I swapped in a tilt column for my standard column so I switched over the lock cylinder and various other column guts.

I THINK you have to remove the cancelling cam to reach and fiddle with the set screw, but it's no big deal. Any autoparts store can rent/sell you the "U" tool to remove it. I bought mine for $10 and it's easy to do. Just be careful that you release everything slowly behind the cam so it doesn't explode and you lose parts.

Go slow, and pay attention to how parts come out, then put them back in in the same order. That's what I did. Also check the Tech Articles for one on tightening your tilt column. It has detailed info that you're looking for.

 

War Eagle,

That perimeter-slotted metal plate is not the turn signal cancelling cam. It is the steering wheel lock plate, and must be removed.



It is FAR easier to use the lock plate depressor tool to hold the plate against the upper bearing preload spring while removing the small round wire retaining ring. It is difficult enough to remove the retaining ring with the tool and both hands free, let alone while trying to hold the plate against the spring with one hand. I used to do it that way, then I got lazy/smarter. Either way, you should use safety glasses or some eye protection just in case the lock ring snaps or flies of the steering shaft.

Once the lock plate is removed, the turn signal cancelling cam will lift straight off the column.

With that out of the way, all that's left to do is to disconnect the VATS cable if you have one (not on an '86), remove the key warning buzzer clip/contact set, and remove the lock cylinder retaining screw. After that, the lock cylinder will simply pull out of the column upper housing. Reverse the procedure for readsembly.



While you're in there, it might be a good idea to clean up all the dried grease and dirt from the turn signal switch and cancelling cam. Also, closely inspect the cancelling springs on the switch and replace as necessary, then regrease the parts with clean white lithium grease. A couple drops of clean engine oil into the upper bearing wouldn't hurt, either. A little care and preventive maintenance will go a long way here.

I'd suggest trying the new lock cylinder before closing up the column and installing the wheel. There is a remote possibility that you have a problem with the sector and rack mechanism in the upper column bowl, so there's no sense in reassembling until you're certain it works to your satisfaction.

If you have problems after the new cylinder is installed, come on back in for more detail.

 

WarEagle; I just did this to my car; the message is still up on the main screen- here's a link, I have actual photos of the operation in it. Not as clear as Vader's diagrams (where do you get those wonderful toys?), but you can see the tools in use: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=162390

[edit] The grease was white lithium?? Shoot; got a can of that in the garage. All I did was lube up the cancelling cam's big circular contact for the horn with dielectric. Ah well; I'll lube it all next time. Thanks for the tip on putting oil on the bearings, too... when it's really cold out, I get a slight squeak when I turn left. I wonder if it's the remnant of the left blinker's cancel spring causing the squeak...

 

Thanks for the info, it helps alot. One more question, What is the best way to remove that wire snap ring without damaging it,and how far down do I need to compress the shaft lock plate to get the ring off? Again you guys are great, thanks for all the info............

1986 Trans Am stock (for now)
305 c.i. engine
700r4 automatic transmission

 

Not far; just enough to relieve the pressure on the lock ring. In my message, one of my details was how I got the lock ring out. The picks I talked about were bought at Home Depot a year or so ago, $5 for a set of three... I think they were made by General.

 

I removed the lock cylinder and that is not the problem, the next step would be to remove the torx screws and pull the rest of the top of the column. Is this feasable? or is it a PITA? With the new cylinder in, you turn the key, it clicks like a gear or something is stripped behind the cylinder.(battery is still disconnected) Any ideas of what this may be?

1986 Trans Am stock (for now)
305 c.i. engine, carb
700r4 automatic transmission

 

Yes, as a matter of fact, I have an idea.

There is a rack and sector gear arrangement on the opposite side of the column from the lock cylinder.
These are die cast zinc, and can break. The sector also engages a follower and linkage rod to actuate the ignition
switch. These parts are available from many sources as repair items.



If you remove your lock cylinder (#20) again, you can then remove the turn signal switch (#12) and carefully pull a little of the wire harness out of the column. To remove the turn signal switch, you'll have to remove the hazard signal **** from under the column. There is a small Phillips screw holding it to the turn signal switch. You can then remove the turn signal arm by gently but firmly pulling it out of the switch. Be careful not to pull too far once is comes out, since the cruise control wire harness is connected to it. That will have to be unplugged once the upper bowl is removed.

The tilt lever will also have to be unscrewed from the column. Once that's all clear, you can remove the upper column bowl mounting screws (#15) and lift the plastic upper column bowl (#19) out of the way. At this point, you should be able to see all the parts included in the housing assembly (#30), including the rack and sector gear assembly and column lock pin.

Pay close attention to the arrangement of the lock pin spring, and how it connects to the sector gear before you disassemble any of that.

If you get in that deeply and still don't see an obvious problem, check back in for more details. This diagram might give you a decent overview: