I finally decided to fix my carb problems once and for all by replacing my entire ignition system. Bought a new GM distributor, MSD superconductor wires, Accel supercoil.

1. Took the old distributor out. Took a mental picture of the exact location of the plate that the cap bolts to, as well as the position of the rotor. On a clock pattern, with 12'oclock facing the firewall, the rotor was facing dead 3 o'clock.

When I went to put the new distributor in, it would only fit at about 3:30 or 2:30. Hmm, maybe it didn't come out exactly as I thought. Installed at 3:30. Cranked it. Cranked very erratic. Not like a dead battery.

2. Took the cap off. Now the rotor was facing dead 6o'clock. So by my calculations, I need to reposition it at about 5:30. Took the distributor out, tried to put it back in. After repeated attempts, I realize that the distributor only completely seats at two positions, 180 degrees from each other, and somehow that point moved to about 9o'clock without turning the engine over again (or 3o'clock). So I grabbed a flashlight and looked down the hole and I see what resembles the tip of a flatblade screwdriver, which corresponds to the bottom of the distributor gear. What is this, the oil pump? And why does it move even when I didn't turn the engine over? And lastly, how do I get out of this mess I got myself into?
Thanks,
Homer

 

Yeah, that's what drives the oil pump. It turns fairly easily so it sometimes gets off a bit during the removal/installation. I've taken a really long screw driver and turned it a bit to get it to line up correctly before (you drop that screwdriver you're in a world of hurt).

If you can get the distributor to fully seat close to where it came out at you can just reset the timing to compensate. I doubt you'd ever get it back in there exactly perfect, so you need to be resetting the base timing anyway after the install...

 

Makes sense to me. Where are the marks I use to set the timing?

 

Make sure the rotor points in exactly the same direction as it did before once you get the oil pump shaft lined up and get the distributor to go all the way back in.

Then do your best job to "eyeball" the distributor body so it's pointing in as close to the same direction as it was before.

That should get the engine to the point it can at least start and run.

Use a timing light and the timing marks on the balancer to dial it in exactly from there.

 

Well, sounds like you messed up the timing a bit. No big deal. Your distributor wasn't sitting down on the oil pump shaft. It was only at 2:30 because it couldn't sink in the rest of the way onto the shaft. If it had, it would have rotated to the 3oclock position. Anyways, here's what you do. Take your #1 spark plug out. Rotate your engine using a big socket wrench on a nut on the balancer. Rotate your engine until you can feel air coming out of the #1 spark plug hole. Look on your engine block right above the balancer somewhere. There should be a piece of metal welded on there with marks on there. These are your timing marks. Keep rotating that balancer until you see the mark in the balancer. It usually is a cut in the balancer itself. You'll know it when you see it. Anyways, line that mark up with the 0 degree mark on the timing marks. Now you have your #1 cylinder at TDC. Put your distributor in and get the rotor to where it points at the #1 spark plug wire tower. If it won't seat onto the oil pump shaft, get the rotor where it hasn't reached the#1 tower yet. Once you get it on the shaft, it should point at #1 tower. To get it on the shaft, have somebody put a little downforce on it while you "bump" then engine with the starter. Just give the key a quick turn. Your friend should tell you when he/she feels it drop onto the shaft. Put your distributor cap on and all the wires. Pull that four pn connector of of your ignition module, start the car, and time it with a light using the same marks you used to get the #1 piston to TDC. This isn't as hard as it sounds. I could do it in 10 minutes. Make sure after you time it, you plug that 4 pin connector back in! Also, while you're timing it, it may need to be set at 6 degrees before top dead center. I'm not sure what engine you have. Check your book or ask around! On my 5.7L TPI, it's 6 degrees BTDC! Good luck! Matt

 

Ok, rotated the oil pump, replaced the distributor to the correct tooth. Now the motor cranks normally, but it still won't start. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the entire ignition, what's left? I'm really confused.

 

"I finally decided to fix my carb problems once and for all by replacing my entire ignition system. Bought a new GM distributor, MSD superconductor wires, Accel supercoil. "

Hmmnn....

Anyway, recheck the plug wire routing as well.

Next time the tranny slips, add fluid to the differential

 

I don't know what kind of car or engine you have, but make sure you didn't make the same mistake I did. When I did my head gasket on my 5.7 TPI, I accidentally crossed two wire harnesses. I accidentally plugged the wire from the coil that's supposed to go to the ignition module, into the air temp sensor which is underneath the plenum. The harness that was supposed to go to that, I had plugged into the ignition module. Took me a few days to figure it out. You weren't real specific on what it was doing when you were trying to start it. Are you getting fuel? Are you getting a spark? Matt

 

ok, (Don't tell dirk), It's a Caprice, LM1, computer controlled quadrajet carburetor, HEI external coil 350. I didn't cross the wires. I used the diagram I got off this website, and routed every wire to the correct spot. I looked down the carb. I am getting fuel. I watched the accelerator pump squirt fuel in the bowls. I wired the coil exactly the way the other one came out. I set all the screws of the carb according to the shop manual. What should I do now?