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priming a solid roller cammed 383 stsroker.. help

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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 01:21 PM
  #1  
ShaneBuss2's Avatar
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From: houston tx
Car: 1992 Firebird Coupe
Engine: 357ci Carb
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi, stock rear
priming a solid roller cammed 383 stsroker.. help

When i received my new 383 stroker from the race shop, it was not primed and had no oil... I primed it for a long time with a drill, but oil never came out the top..

i started it up and it ended up bending two pushrods. it's not a clearance issue. I still dont see oil on the top of the motor, yet i had good oil pressure. it only ran a very short time.

I have been told that sometimes oil doesnt come out the top when you prime it.. any truth here?

I am hoping i can just prime it for HOWEVER long it takes until oil comes out, replace the two pushrods and try again. If oil doesnt come out, then maybe ive got a bigger problem.

I guess i just need to confrim wether or not oil should eventually come out the top when priming with a drill? does it matter what kind of priming tool you have?

thanks guys,
Shane
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 01:51 PM
  #2  
badgta's Avatar
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From: KY
Car: 1991 FORMULA
Engine: ZZ4 + LT4 HT CAM 430HP
Transmission: 700-R4 COMING T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.56's (COMING)
try this

you will probably never see oil up top unless you have a primer tool that has the bushing on it.... distributors have a bushing on them...

that would explain it if ya were using say and old screwdriver.....

the next time ya change your oil try to fill the filter all the way up when ya put it on to prevent a dry startup....... besides that i cant really think of anything but maybe a galley plug they forgot???

anyway, good luck and i hope it works out for ya
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 02:24 PM
  #3  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
priming is a waste of time and effort on a SBC. your bent push rods are an indication of valve train geometry problems
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Old Mar 18, 2003 | 09:13 PM
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From: St. Augustine, FL
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 383
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt-3.73
When I prime mine, it takes about 30 seconds for the oil to run out of the pushrod holes. Don't run the drill to fast, try different speeds.

You pushrod bending could be the timing gear being not aligned correctly.
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Old Mar 19, 2003 | 01:26 AM
  #5  
ShaneBuss2's Avatar
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From: houston tx
Car: 1992 Firebird Coupe
Engine: 357ci Carb
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi, stock rear
Here is what the engine builder said. i hope he's right. (it's the same guy who actually built my engine.. that guy isnt there anymore :-( )

Q: I noticed there is no oil on the top of the motor also ..its weird because I’m getting good oil pressure.. This would explain the two bent pushrods I guess.
A: This is typical of a Mechanical Roller Cam, Hydraulic Cams have springs in the lifters that "shoot" engine oil all over the valve springs, Mechanical Roller Cams don't.
Lack of oil will not bend pushrods, most likely the pushrods are too weak for the spring pressures required by the Mechanical Roller Cam & thus they are bending.

From what you are saying, I would order all 16 new Manley Pro Series Swedged End Pushrods & install them - I would bet your pushrod troubles will be over.


Q: I measured the pushrod and its about 7.80…
A: That most likely is too short, most of our Small Block Roller Cam Motors ( you must have a Mechanical roller if your pushrods are 7.800" Long ) use a 7.900" Manley Pushrod, Manly makes the thickest & strongest pushrod in a 5/16" diameter. It sounds as if your motor has a Mechanical Roller Cam, with bent pushrods the first thing I would tell you to do is order a new set of Manley Pushrods, the Part # you want is: 25712-16 - Replace them ALL.....


I am going to give this a shot. I feel better knowing on a solid roller oil doesnt always go out the top, and knowing it probably was ****ty pushrods (or them being .100 too short) taht caused the problem. I know there arent clearance issues..

Thanks guys!
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