I am about to move and need to get my car running again.

I got the swap done and got the car running and tuned up fine. Then, the next morning I went to start it again and nothing. She turns over (starter and batt are both good), she is getting fule to the carb, the dist is now replaced and is working good, she is getting spark to the plucs great, the compression in the block is good, I replaced the plugs because they were fouled after trying to start it so many times. I am totaly lost and need to get the car back on the trailer in 2 days. I am in the military going to Kuwait and need to get my car home to store it, can anyone help??

Could it be the computer not letting it turn over? I cannot understand why it would be because I am getting fuel and spark.

help..................

 

Check your timing, you distributor could be set incorrectly.

 

The timing is good, I checked it like 4 times. Timing is on, I am getting spark, I am getting fuel, I am getting everything but it just will not totaly kick over???

ANY THOUGHTS?

She smells really flooded, but I let her sit over night and nothing?

 

try holding it a wot and cranking it............ get a ****load of air to mix with the flooded cond............. it might work..... i hope it does so ya can get her stored...

 

rent, buy, or borrow a wench or come-a-long to get it on a trailer and worry about getting it started and running when you return. you ought to have enough on your mind without adding to it.

 

Yes, I do have a lot on my mind, but I have been slaving away at this car for months. I just want to see her run good before I leave. I have 2 days to get her running, I am so stressed it shows. I just changed the oil because it was mixed heavy with fuel. Still nothing. I have adjusted the psi from 0-8 and nothing. She reaks of fuel. I am lost. this swap has been one to remember. What gives? It cannot be the chip/prom. I talked to Bran at tbichips.com and he says it is not the problem. I am lost.. Please help. I have 48 hours to get her running.

This one will officaly be called "stump the chump."

 

I would tend to agree wil Ed. Get soem buddies or a winch, and get the car on the trailer. Move and store it, go to work crushing the resistance, and when you get home we'll get it running, if I have to come out there and start it myself.

And despite what the news media may be showing, many of us are behind you.

 

This may be a stupid answer, but I know I had the same problem and what i did was get some new plugs and some starter fluid and shoot some fluid in the carb and it cranked right up , I had to do that for a while but eventually it straightened out. maybe that will work.
Good luck over there , my brother has been in oman since before Christmas and has since moved in iraq

 

pull a plug or two, the easy ones and see if they are wet with fuel or black with soot. Either one will stop the car from starting. It sounds like retarded timeing to me but i'm not there. When it did start was it easy to start or did it crank for a few seconds and slowly begin firing. Try to crank it with the throttle to the floor and the injectors unplugged. Them with the injectors plugged in and the throttle to the floor.


On a side note:

Despite the crap you see on TV, i know of no one who isn't with you guys. When i find someone who isn't, i change there mind. Thank you and come home safe.

 

What about any advice I could use in these next 2 days? I will try the starter fluid, but I have already tried new plugs. I am getting good back fire when I try to start it. She is running rich, flooding good, smells bad.

Thanks for the support Vader and all others. Also, thanks for any advice you can share with me on my car situation before I leave, then when I get back we can get it going better. I will do my best over there and spread the word to the 3rd gens to the Iraqis, he he!

Thanks

Stand behind our troops, they will die so you can stay home and eat good food, be with loved ones and grow old in a free country. All we ask for is support at home. Thanks to those who already do.

2LT Ryan Lowe
United States Army
4th Infantry Division
Armor Corps

 

just a thought, it sounds like maybe an exhaust valve isn't opening. is it popping through the intake? Try unplugging one spark plug at a time. If it stops backfiring through the intake you found the offending cylinder and can trouble shoot from there. Has this car ever run good? have you logged any mile on the motor? It sounds like when i broke an exhaust rocker stud.

 

liaky: I already pulled the plugs (all of them) they looked real black and smell of fuel. So, I relpaced them and they seem better. Now, I changed the oil because it was mixed with fuel. I am getting spark to the plugs (I unbolted #1 set it up against the header and got a nice blue spark). I am letting it sit over night to ease the flooding, maybe more luck in the morning. Timing has been set time and time again. We unplug the #1 plug, turn it until it blows back, then set the dist in a TDC. Did it like 4 times to be sure. I tilt the dist back and forth (advance it then back it off) looking for that sweet spot. Nothing! I believe she is flooded so bad, the plugs are getting wet, but what do I do, take the plugs out and let the sockets in the heads dry over night as to get the area dry. Also I read one of vaders old post about taking them all out and turning the crank a few times to push out and fluids in the chamber. I am lost.

Thanks

Do you think the starter fluid at WOT will help any?

 

When I did get her running, she ran good. She has about 4-7 miles on her. Maybe 20 minutes total running time. It back fired when I got it running. That I blame on a loose spark plug I found after changing the old ones out. I get a pop, like with flames or smoke coming up through the carb. After chaniging the oil and pooring a small amount of oil down the carb, the exhaust let out tons of white smoke (I asume burning the oil I put into it). We checked the roller rockers and they all seem fine. When it does get running, she runs for a few seconds then quits. That is it. She turns, turns, turns, then the batt dies. She turns, turns, turns, then blump, blump, blump.........flat line again..........

 

Ok lets clarify something, you never set the timming with a timming light right?

Lets assume you didn't, and this is the first time your firing it up.

Take out the #1 plug ( drivers side front most one). put a socket on the crank. stick your finger over the plug hole get some one to turn the crank by hand until you feel air blowing out of the cylinder. You should be turning the engine clockwise when viewing from the drivers seat. As the air starts to blow out set the timing notch on the balancer at about 10 degrees BTDC.
Then take the distributor cap off and carefully line up the #1 plug wire post with the rotor. Make sure all the distributor harness plugs are in because if not it may be retarding the timming. Try to start it now.

 

liaky: I did that already. Pulled the #1 plug out and waited until it blew air back. Set the timing with the rotor lined up with the #1 plug. Did it all. Set the timing with a timing light. Everything! I have had a fulltime mechanic help me, he is stumped with this. He blames it all on the computer not allowing it to "light the fire." He is used to old school set ups.

Dam the luck.

What else could be the problem?

 

PS laiky, do you have an Instant message handle? I do thank you tons for this advice/help. Please IM me at ryanflowe

I have my IM on and I will wait, that way we can trouble shoot this faster.

Thanks again to all

 

GoFaster,

If your plugs are wet with fuel, you're not getting any spark in the chambers. All the spark enrgy is being shunted to ground through the wet insulators. Remove the plugs again and allow the cylinders to dry out. If you can't heat and dry the plugs, another new set of plugs would be in order.

I'd hate to tell you how we used to dry out flooded engines, but it was similar to smoking out a holed-up Iraqi...

 

Vader, thanks. I thought of allowing them to dry over night. It just seems to me that it would still kick over. What would be causing the motor to get the plugs so fouled with gas? If I change the plugs again, this will be the 3rd time. I would like to fix that. The carb is leaking fuel from the gasket due to the fact I have a stripped bolt on the dirvers rear side carb to intake bolt down.

 

I think you may have found the cause of the flooding.

 

Okay, so I found the leak, now what? It should still be able to start up, right? I got the fuel out of the oil, now she still wont start.?? No sealent will stop the gas leak? Just for now?

Thanks

 

You may have both a fuel and vacuum leak as a result of the loose bolt. One thing you can do is to snug the top screws of the carb body to help seal up the lid. Just a few inch-pounds, nothing goofy for torque. If you have dry cylinders and dry plugs installed, return teh timing to specs and try it again. If the intake starts to load up with fuel, stop trying (since you'll only flood it worse) and try to crimp the fuel line from teh pump of fuel tank to stop the flow of fuel to the carb. Let it run out of fuel if you have to.

You may also have a stuck float if the engine hasn't been run in a while. Try tapping the top of the carb body in the front with a wood hammer handle or screwdriver handle. You don't want to break anything - just free up the float to reseal.

Are you getting any popping or even a hint of cylinder firing?