I have a 98 s-10 with a 4.3 that Im pretty sure has a bad lifter. One of my mechanic friends said collapsed lifter based on listeing to it with a wooden handle screwdriver to his ear. I took it to a dealer, and without even taking the valve covers off they said I need a new cam,timing chain, lifters and pushrods ( for that service they want $2800). I dont really wanna spend that much money on it because its a beat up construction vehicle. Oh ya i guess I should state that it has a loud clicking noise that speeds up with rpm and goes away when the engine is warm. So what do you guys think does a collapsed lifter sound like a good diagnose? Even if there is damage to the cam lobe i dont really care I just want the noise to go away and Ill drive it till it dies. So if I were to replace a just the lifter, in theory that should make the noise go away right? Ive never seen a damged lifter before so Im guessing i can figure out with one(s) are the problem with a visual inspection? thanks

 

89,

The fact that teh noise stops when it gets warm is a hint. The fact that it is a construction/fleet vehicle is another (I'm guessing the 3,000 mile oil change interval hasn't been strictly adhered to).

You more likely have a dirty lifter that will not fill with cold, viscous oil. Try cleaning the engine with a quart of ATF. Remove the oil filter, then spin on a cheapo filter ans top off the sump with a quart of transmission fluid (oil). Run the engine until it is at full temperature, varying the RPM to distribute and pump oil fully. You could even drive the truck as long as you don't accelerate hard, load it heavily, or otherwise distress the crank, rods, and bearings. After no more than a hour of operation, drain the oil while it is still hot to remove as much suspended debris and sludge as possible. Add a new filter and fill with quality lubricant. Synthetic would be best, since it swill continue to clean your engine. However, a good mineral oil of the correct viscosity (like 10W30) would be acceptable. To me, that leaves out Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Castrol. That's just my preference. Avoid the "designer" oils like the "high mileage" types or "oil burning control" crap. Regular, real oil is all you need.

The ATF should help clean any accumulated sludge and varnish from the lifter check valves, metering disc valves, and other sensitive and critical lubricant areas. I've quieted valve trains and even main/rod bearings by doing that.

Once you get it changed, stay within a regular scheduled maintenance program.

 

thanks....It has 78000 miles on it I have only had it since 64000. I have always been good about changing the oil. But Im sure it prolly wasnt changed much before.




edit: oh ya vadar So do you think that atf is better then conventional engine flushing products?

 

I've got an old Buick Century that does this type of thing too, but isn't it also possible that a bad manifold gasket could cause a ticking sound. Mines only when on the power, and only for a little bit after its been started, so that would rule out the lifters, wouldn't it? Thoughts are appreciated, just for general interest. This is the second 3.3 Buick Century I've had thats made it over 200k without ANY motor work, so I'm convinced that if I keep changing my oil, and letting it warm up nice, it'll run forever!

 

89,

I'm not sure about any of the other engine flushing products, but I've safely used ATF.

The 262 is a durable engine. I'd be very surprized at a damaged cam at only 78,000 miles unless it had been really neglected. IIRC, the '98 is a roller lifter engine, so lobe damage would be even less likely. I had an '88 that went 180,000 with no problems, and was still strong at trade-in. I was more concerned with the rear gears than the engine/trans at that mileage.

And that mileage is an excellent point at which to switch to synthetic. I switched my '96 Sonoma at 84,800 miles and have had no leaks or other problems.

 

if that kinda of damaged has occured at a low millage do you think there is much other internal engine damages?

 

IIRC, the '98 is also a balance shaft engine. It's a little odd that they didn't mention that at teh dealer's serviec department. I'm impressed that the dealer mechanics are able to diagnose all those problems without even removing the rocker covers to check lobe lift. Damn, those guys are good!

I'd be looking elsewhere.

 

its probably jsut a bad/dirty lifter. I doubt theres anything else wrong with it at only 78k. Those engines are really tough. I have a hand me down 4.3 cpi s-10 from my mom and she believed in 30,000 mile oil change intervals. when the brakes would start to squeel real bad shed finally break down and have it serviced. She even kept driving it one time with no oil in it untill the motor stalled from all the friction. The 4.3 soaked all of it up and it still gets me back and forth to college everyday. the block and heads are warped from being overheated and it blows head gaskets alot but it still keeps on trucking.

 

my almost brand new 4.3 in my 89 does the exact same thing pretty much. if i were you i wouldnt worry about it too much, just get used to it. as long as it stops ticking, it probably doesnt have anything wrong with it. just a lifter that wont stay pumped up when the engine is off, or cold. mine will tick for the first 3-5 seconds everytime then stop. has done this for the last 6 months or so. no drop in oil pressure, or anything else. just a little ticking when i start it then silence

 

Ok Im gonna try flushing the enigne tommorow, but I just want to clarify that its not a little ticking, Its real loud until approx 200 degrees

 

you may want to check for a bent pushrod, or maybe a loose rocker adjustment. i didnt know how loud f a tick you were talking about. just thought id let you know how my 4.3 is

 

I'll say the same thing I say on the Astro/Safari forum...

...time for a 350!