This is how it was when I took it off...is this going to be a problem..I hope not because I cant find a new one for the 327...

 

another view.....

 

It looks like the oil pan gasket is the only thing that may be affected.

 

thats what I was thinking..no cracks or anything else visible

 

It's only the rear part of the pan seal reatiner. I wouln't lose a lot of sleep over it. Just clean the cap thoroughly, then apply a liberal amount of RTV to help seal and retain the pan gasket/seal. I would avoid trying to weld or repair it, since any distortion of the cap will require machining of the cap and case (align bore/honing).

EDIT: I presume this is a small journal crank?

 

Yes it is a small journal...thanks for the reply Vader...I pick up the block this week , and the crank, from the machine shop..all freshened up..I really didnt think it was going to be a problem...but this is my first total rebuild, and I want to do it right the first time..I'm getting quite a few dollars into this project and I didnt want something like this to spoil it....thanks again.

 

Looks like somebody set the block down carelessly some time or other.

I agree, nothing serious is affected, only the oil pan gasket rail. That shouldn't create any problems. I wouldn't even do anything any different as far as assembly, than if it was undamaged.

I would certainly not try to swap another cap on there; the crank bores and caps are machined as a set, you will most likely need to have the block align-bored to make another cap fit, not worth going through all that.

 

you might want to have it penetrant or mag tested for cracks, but i doubt it gives you any problems

 

glad you all agree on this..thats good enough for me.. Thanks guys for your time..I'm really anxious to get the short-block assembled..The LT1 problems set me back a little on the porting acc. for the heads. But Ive been working a lot of OT to get what I need..No silver spoons here. ..Have a great evening and I'll be talking to ya.

 

Pees me off the way some people in a machine shop will treat blocks/heads, etc. One time when I dropped off a set of heads at a machine shop in Providence, the guy at the front desk threw them 10 feet onto a pallet. I should've taken the heads back, but fortunately them came out unscathed a week later.

 

That would have been a tough one for me to swallow..the damage to this cap was done prior to my ownership..the shop I have been using has been very professional....I disassebled the short block myself.
I think at that point I would have loaded up my stuff and gone elsewhere.

 

I personally would take a little bit of dremal-ing to it. Use the little sanding drums just to smooth it out, & remove any risers that might want to chip off later down the road.
Get that broken edge beveled a little. You’re not going to remove any real material, you just want it smooth.

Ron

 

that might not be a bad idea...I'll consider that , thanks Ron. You get my follow-up on the opti?

 

Ok..new Question....I got my block and crank back today. Had to go .040 on the rods.....030 mains..and it says thrust std...exactly where is the thrust bearing located on the crank?
in ordering bearings..I dont see a thrust bearing listed with the kits..I'm ordering this kit from northern autoparts (rering kit)...http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...?ProductId=525

Will the thrust bearing be included with the rering kit, or is that something I need to order seperate..I dont see a listing at any suppliers..Nor do I remember removing anything other than the bearings under the caps..I dont know what a thrust bearing looks like..maybe that was the partticals in my pan after-all..help me out..here.. (duh)

 

pan particals pic...https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=168614

 

ok I'm getting this I think...thrust is the flanged part of the bearing, right...so the main size is the size I am concerned with since the thrust was left standard..correct me if I'm wrong....gosh this is fun!
What do you think the chances of this motor running when I'm done are..LOL

 

Riley,

Yes, thrust is controlled on teh #5 main bearing. If the thrust is STD, that means that no material had to be machined/ploished from the crank to clean up the thrust surfaces. Make sure your replacement bearings are sizes accordingly, with 0.030" undersize and standard thrust width. Clevite or TRW should be able to accomodate you easily.

You'll get it running, I'm sure.

 

"I personally would take a little bit of dremal-ing to it. Use the little sanding drums just to smooth it out, & remove any risers that might want to chip off later down the road.
Get that broken edge beveled a little. You’re not going to remove any real material, you just want it smooth."

I agree, smooth it up a little

 

Thanks for the reply Vader.. the bottom end of the engine is new territory to me..so much to learn. i'll get it. Thanks for the support! I'll be talking to ya.

82 Camaro...I'm going to smooth the journal out a bit . thanks for your input!