Heat soak on Starter?.....
Heat soak on Starter?.....
Hello, I post a question yesterday about my car not starting after it gets warm I changed the key because ours was very warm but that did not help.............
Everyone mentioned Starter heat soak as well..............
When the car will not start it does not make a sound no click click
no nothing..........does the heat soak they mentioned do that?....
and what is the fix for this?.....Thanks, Bob
Everyone mentioned Starter heat soak as well..............
When the car will not start it does not make a sound no click click
no nothing..........does the heat soak they mentioned do that?....
and what is the fix for this?.....Thanks, Bob
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From: England UK
Car: 85 Z28
Engine: LG4 modified
Transmission: 700R4
Yes, heat soak can cause this. The heat affects the solenoid which is where the clicking normally comes from.
You can pick up (or make if you prefer) a heat shield to keep the heat off the starter.
You can pick up (or make if you prefer) a heat shield to keep the heat off the starter.
Im pretty sure its heat soak. This happened to me for years and I was always thinking the key too - it isnt!! You have a couple options:
1. Heat wrap by DEI
2. Get a heat shield that mounts to the starter.
3. Get a remote mount starter mount (this is cheap and easy and worked great for me. Summit makes a kit maybe 25 bux).
All are available at Summit but the remote mount will definately solve your problem.
1. Heat wrap by DEI
2. Get a heat shield that mounts to the starter.
3. Get a remote mount starter mount (this is cheap and easy and worked great for me. Summit makes a kit maybe 25 bux).
All are available at Summit but the remote mount will definately solve your problem.
Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: Chesterfield, VA
Car: '86 IROC, black and sharp
Engine: 305 tpi, bone stock
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 pos w/rear db
I've always heard of heat soak but the only time I ever has a problem with a dragging starter (or a delayed start after several clicks) was with weak starters. Two times in 25 years between 9 vehicles (only 2 with headers) I've had a hard to start when hot problem. One car had headers, the other did not. On both the installation of a new start cured the problem. If a heat shield helps great. Just my two cents.
Wow, nine vehicles in 25 years sounds like a lot, but I still have 7 of them (81 Z28, two 86 IROCs, 73 Laguna, 2 blazers and a Jeep). Notice the blazers and jeep are not identified in detail giving you a clue that they really aren't that important to me. Once of the blazers will be sold this summer to make room for a pickup. I won't miss it unless the PU gets stuck this coming winter.
Wow, nine vehicles in 25 years sounds like a lot, but I still have 7 of them (81 Z28, two 86 IROCs, 73 Laguna, 2 blazers and a Jeep). Notice the blazers and jeep are not identified in detail giving you a clue that they really aren't that important to me. Once of the blazers will be sold this summer to make room for a pickup. I won't miss it unless the PU gets stuck this coming winter.
Last edited by Z's r Best; Apr 10, 2003 at 10:43 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
From: St.George Utah
Car: 89' Iroc
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
so is it the starter or the silonoid that causes it not to work, cus i want to get the remote mount silanoid kit but If its the starter thats the problem I will save the money and get a high torque minnie starter.
Unless your motor has a high compression ratio maybe 10.5:1, you will not need a high torque starter. I would start with the remote selenoid and hook it up to your starter and see how it works. If you are still having problems then buy a standard starter at autozone (if there is one near you), they offer a lifetime warrantee on their starters. This starter should be sufficient for your motor. Another option is to just pull your starter out and get it checked to see if it is weak. I do not think you have a weak starter... I will put money on it that it's the selenoid. Most parts places like autozone will check your starter free of charge.
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I got sick of dealing with heavy ***, stock, POS starters from Autozone. I finally broke down and got an LT1 starter for $110. It sounds so much better than the stocker and is easier to remove if need be.
hey...i have a 1991 Z28 with a 305 tuned port...sounds like i may have the same prob...starts up great cold...but after shut down and after a nice hot soak i get a slow crank and eventually it turns over...sometimes however fast crank? no turn over...i replaced the starter mayb 2 years ago (brand new ac-delco) for a different prob...battery is 4 months old (interstate)...starter relay brand new...starter cables (brand new ac-delco)...as u can c i dont use cheap junk on my car...but if any1 has had the same problem as i have please reply...im goin crazy!!
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
Where is your initial timing set? If it's advanced too far you can have this same problem.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Albany, NY
Car: 84 Camaro Z28
Engine: carbed 350
Transmission: T5
i have the same problem, when i run the car for a while and shut it off it wont start back up. im going to replace the soleniod and get a heat shield. if i get the remote soleniod will that solve the problem (is it the starter that gets too hot or the soleniod?) thanks for any replies.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Paris, Tx. USA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: TH350
Originally posted by JP84Z430HP
Where is your initial timing set? If it's advanced too far you can have this same problem.
Where is your initial timing set? If it's advanced too far you can have this same problem.
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