Is this true? How is it accomplished? Worth looking into/trying?

 

you could stroke it out to close to 327, but it won't be anywhere near what an actualy 327 is. the 327 uses a 4" bore, and a short stroke, where as a a 305 made to a 320+ cubes is going to be a very small bore, very long stroke.

 

Could'nt you just bore out the 305?

 

i dont' think you can bore it THAT much. you can make a 327, with a 350 block, and and the right crank.

 

i believe that a 327 can be made with a 350 block and a 283 crank. boring a 305 over that much would put you in the danger zone of cracking a block and/or cooling problems with the cylinder walls so thin.

 

Nope, that's a 302. A 327 is a 350 bore with a 327 stroke.

 

With a 305 case and a stroker kit, you can easily make a 334 out of it. If you get lucky and have a heavy 305 casting that will allow a 0.060" overbore, you can get that up to 339, at which point you're only 10 inches short of a better engine... and will have spent a lot more time and cash.

Any time you have to get into crank work on a 305, you might as well put the effort into a 4" bore block.

 

Yes, let me just stress once again that if lower-block work is needed in a 305, switching to 350 is the only economically and otherwise sensible thing to do. Unless you don't live in USA, where any of Detroit V8 blocks are very hard to find.

 

302 = 4.000'' bore 3.000'' stroke
305 = 3.735'' bore 3.480'' stroke
327 = 4.000'' bore 3.250'' stroke
350 = 4.000'' bore 3.480'' stroke

As you see to get a 305 near a 4.000'' bore you would have to go .265'' over and that my friend cant be done.. You would bore clean through the cyl walls right into all the water jackets.

MAX safe over bore is .060'' on a good core

 

I can sell you a rebuildable 327 if you want, it's laying in my garage, it's out of a 63 vette, shipping will be a **tch though

 

find a 307 and rob its 3.25" stroke crank. then find a 350 block, and you have a 327

 

Hopefully, most 307s have been mercifully smelted and recast into 4" bore blocks by now...

 

C'mon Vader, 307's are'nt that bad. IMO way better than a 305.

 

Where do I get a 334 Stroker kit?

 

yeah they are that bad. they're very similar to a 305 or 283. since you're too young to remember the 307 everyone that had one and cared about preform,ance was looking for a 327 or a 350 to swap in place of the 307, just like 305s today.

 

Nobody wants to tell you, because we don't want to be associated in any way with it.

(But a search will reveal the answer)

Oh, one more: 305 bore with 3.75" stroke - 328 ci. But, since most people that would consider such a project would want the bore to be clean, they'd go ahead and do the .030" over and bingo, 334 ci.

I guess I can think of one (and only one) situation where you would consider a stroked 305 - strick casting #'s emissions inspection. With an internally-balanced one-piece RMS stroker crank, Herr Inspektor wouldn't be able to tell you've increased the displacement with an external visual.

 

I dont think so, only salvageable part on them are the crank, a few of the head castings werent all that bad but most were junk.

 

there was a magazine that did a build up of a 305, doing a 334, and from what I remember it made pretty good power. Not like a 350 would, but some people don't have the money to go and get a 350 if they don't have one. sometimes you have to use what ya got, run what ya brung.

I think the mag was Hot Rod or Popular Hot Rodding

 

I don't remember what magazine it was either, but franky my dear, I don't give a damn.

I think the project car was called Silver Streak. (Another one streaks the bowl on it's way down.)

That engine had SO MUCH MORE done to it that just a crank change. They put on World S/R (maybe Torquer) heads, a beefy cam, bumped the compression, etc, etc.

And if you think it cost more to build a 350 than a 334, you haven't done enough research. The price of 350 pistons are nearly half the price of 305 pistons, all else being the same.

AAMOF, I'd bet it's just as cheap, if not cheaper to do a complete 383 than a 334, if I knew I was right.

I have to give five7kid some credit though. He finally found ONE legit reason to 'consider' building a 334.

 

Fella used a 307 block in the Engine Masters Challenge. He did well. Also, the 307s can be bored out to the 4" bore in some cases if I'm not mistaken. Maybe one of you old timers can
(de)-verify that.

On another note, There is a 307 Chevelle in the family. This old timer is sort of sentimental about it I think. Been tryin to outrun my stock GTA for a while now. Maybe he's given up and finally settled on working on the Big Block.

 

Thank you, I'll give it a try.

Some early 283 blocks could be bored out to 4". But, the factory started saving raw materials ( ) in the 60's and made the cylinder walls of the 307 too thin (generally) to go to 4". If you do a sonic inspection before you start the chips flying, you'll know if your block is a candidate or not. Makes more sense to find a 327 LG or 350 block.

The Engine Masters guy stroked a 307 - custom pistons, a whole bunch of head work. The power really came from his head work (which was his specialty, IIRC).

 

Not sure I can agree with that. The primary limitation of the factory 307's was the heads (and the fact that they were all small cam 2bbls). I remember seeing a 307-based econorail at a car show in '73, it ran 8's in the 1/4 (not bad in those days).

A 307 shortblock with all of my equipment should run better than my current 305 - assuming a little more stall speed, which is actually too low right now for my 305.

 

The reason I was wondering about a 334 is because I have a 350 and a 305 HO sitting in the garage. The 305 is the original motor for my 83 Z28 HO. I still have the five speed in the car and all I have heard is that a T5 will not hold up to a 350. I was hoping a 334 would be within tolerances of torque and power for
the T5. And I really don't know what I'm going to do w/ the 350.
It has a small crack on a coolant journal next to the lifters; need to weld it and rebuild it.

 

Vader, what would be a good casting for this? The 305 in my 86 started knockin a couple weeks ago, so I pulled it out to make room for my good ole' 350, and upon pulling it apart it had .060 pistons in it. The engine has a total of 220,000 Miles (Yeah, tell that to a RlCER!), but was rebuilt 65K ago. I was shocked to find .060 pistons in it, and the crank was 10/10. The casting # for the engine is 14093627. Any good? Worth rebuilding to re-sell?? Thanks. BTW, it is a 1 peice rearMS, carbed.

Edit: Just ran the # on mortec.com, all it gave me was:
14093627...305...87-91...2...Roller cam, one-piece rear seal
The only dispute with that is, it's an 86 car, and there was not a roller cam in it (although i'm sure they could have just put a flat tappet in during the rebuild, cuz the holes are there). So what do you think?

 

if they had the money to waste on a stroker kit for a 305 they could buy a 350 short block and have extra money to spend...

 

that's not that impressive


many imports are able to hit that without rebuild if taken care off


hell my celica (if any of you care to remember) had 250k miles on it without a rebuild still pulling good compression as well with way more abuse (of all kinds) then your motor has taken I'm sure

and my current car.... my *** never have I seen a motor take more racing abuse

but to the question at hand

the 305 is an ok motor for economy with making decent power

but the problem is the bore is too small and makes for getting some decent size valves in there a problem without shrouding. if I remember right the stock valves already have a decent amount wrong with that

and when you start getting in a motor taht has a longer stroke then bore you start to come into some good airflow problems


if you want a small motor you would be better off going with a 327

they can make good power while still being fairly cheap and also since they are able to use a lot of the 350 parts you would be a lot better off using that


the 305 motor only other reason to build that up is if you had a race class that was displacement limited at which point I would build a 302

had to have stock matching numbers for the block for emissions

or something else like that


305 again isn't that bad of a motor but leaves a lot to be desired

 

3927185's

These were the better of the 307 head castings. I think they used them on 327's and 350's also.

 

the 283 302 307 and 305s are all kinda small i have had them all i even have a 267 it has a 3 1/2 bore it gets really good MPG- thats all its good for- like to go on long trips were you don't want to run a 406 or 400- or as a until my good motor is ready you can drop in a little one

 

In 1975 I was looking at buying a new Nova. The EPA mileage for the 267 was lower than for the 350.

 

Yep, they were terrible performers and got crappy gas mileage too. I had a 267 in an 81 monte carlo, no amount of tuning or maintenance could get a decent mpg out of that car.

 

Not so. Fitting 1.94" intake valves into the 305 bore is not a problem. Just requires a little grinder work to unshroud them, nothing major at all. But even without grinder work they would still fit.

 

Originally posted by mw66nova
i believe that a 327 can be made with a 350 block and a 283 crank
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Nope, that's a 302. A 327 is a 350 bore with a 327 stroke.
by MTchrist

sorry MTchrist but you are wrong. the 302 was made years ago when chevrolet wanted to enter the SCCA's trans-am series and the limit on the engines was five liters. Chevy's 283 was not enough and the 327 was too big to enter. Their answer was an old hot rodders trick to put a 283 crank int the 327 to come up with the 302 that penske(?) drove to win much of the series.

 

283 crank in a 327 is the same 302 cu in as a 283 crank in a 350 since they all share the same 4" bore. Stroke is the difference between the three engines.

 

Let me offer this up. The early 4in bore blocks (327) almost all came with forged steel cranks, these were also small journal. About 1968 chevy started building the cranks in the large journal. (there were large journal 327's out there, I owned one)So, even though dropping a 283 into a 4in bore block to build a 302, (or a 327 crank)sounds good in theory, you may find that the crank won't physically fit in the block (late crank, early block) However, there are bearing spacers out there that will let you put an early (small journal) crank into a late (large journal) block. However, most engine builders shy away from this since there are potential problems with using these spacers. Generally, I'd give up on building a 327, the good ones are small journal, need boring and don't have holes in the heads for accessories. I, and many others felt that these were the best sbc's ever made and that the 350's were stones, but that is all ancient history. Do yourself a favor and stick with late (68 and up) engines. Another benefit is that in later years chevy added more tin to the block, this really cut down on wear in the bore, the early engines absolutely had to be bored when they got around 70,ooo miles on them. The newer blocks can go a lot farther. But those old 327s with the small journal steal cranks would spin 7,000 all day long with a solid cam and good vlave springs.

 

holes in the heads is only a small very small problem, we used to take 283 heads and drill & tap the 3 holes in one head and may be one hole in the other for the alt,327 heads can be done the same way,i mean you're gonna put many hours with a die grinder to get them to flow *** so why not drill some holes wile you're at it? well i have a boring bar valve grinder and small mill, the pre 1968 327s are the ones i like best. even with out the tin in the block. other things can be done to slow down cylinder wear.

 

Did any one ever take a 350 block & crank and put late 327 rods & pistons in it? the top ring will come up to the top of the block deck,nearly no ring grove, the piston will stick out so much that the only way to get heads on it is to use 400 heads and still needs a little grinding, later we was gonna try and mill out some 327 heads to clear the pistons, we used old flat top pistons mid 1960s

 

the word in my top post wit 3 little stars was not a cus word.
it was the word good, flow good/ do to a miss spelling i forgot one of the Os in good, and it makes the name of our heavenly father

 

How?

 

i think you'll find that the 327 and 350 pistons have different wristpin locations. I don't see how you're going to pull that off.

 

Yea right? .23 is damd near 1/4" Where are did you find 1/4" head gaskets?

 

Actually it'll only stick up half of that(other half of the stroke is at the bottom of the cylinder).. but still. Sounds like a real ******* piston doming experiment to me.

 

call it a ******* piston doming experiment if you like.- it does need a little mill work to pull it off
if this seem hard then i will not go in to how to turn down a piston in a lathe or mill some of the underside.

 

I'm going to try to say this as nice as I can:

Dude, you're either a troll or a magazine mechanic. Given your relatively low post count, I'll assume the latter. I know for certain you're not a *******, because a ******* at least has a little common sense.

I'd suggest you lay off giving "advice" for awhile. As the old saying goes, "You can't learn anything with your mouth open." And I'm afraid you've got a lot to learn.

The value of continuing this thread has long passed, I'm afraid.