ok, sticker on the car says *0 degree advance" this right? or should i set it differently ...--have a timing light now-- ... im supposed unplug the single white wire with the lil gray connecter in the middle of the wire, ..that leads to the front plug on the coil right???

 

No.

It's the brown wire in front of the heater box on the pass. side. It's sticking out of some black wire loom.

Make sure the car is off when you unplug it, and before you plug it back in.

It wouldn't hurt to disconnect the neg battery cable for ~30 seconds to reset the ECM, but that's up to you.

 

0* is suggested... 6* is likeable....if the motor will hold it...you will know if it is too much.....

 

that the correct wire for a 92 rs??

 

thats what they say.....

 

grey with a black stripe?? heh, hope so, only one i saw....anyways, ..timing is dead on, car still messing up....dunno what to do now.....push it over a cliff?

 

how is it messing up? be more specific and im sure someone here can help ya find a solution other then pushin it over a cliff.. but if ya really wanna push it over a cliff my driveway is sorta like a cliff.. jus push it there n leave it.. i'd love another 3rd gen

 

lol ive posted so many times about it....no one even responds....heh here it goes...92 camaro rs ,305 TBI, every other time i crank my car...it runs real rough, lopey, ..uneven idle, white smoke comes out the tbi , if i hit the gas it seems to level out and be ok after 10 seconds......ive replaced the ECM, MAP sensor, Idle air control sensor,engine temp sesnor, EGR solenoid, distributor, coil, cap, rotor, ignition module, plugs, wires, o2 sensor, checked for all possible leaks, ...all wires are in tact.. NO error codes, no nothing...i am completly stumped...

 

Where did you see gray w/ black stripe?

I'm pretty sure it's brown w/a black stripe. (single connector) It's located right in front of the heater box (pass. side, ~6" from the firewall). If you set your timing w/o disconnecting this wire, then your timing is WAY off, like 15* or more. That will definately make the car run bad.

 

This is a bad pic, but gives you a general idea where to look.

 

yeah, thats where i disconnected the wire, it was grey with a black stripe, ...only single wire over there with a connecter in the middle....and the car only runs bad when i crank it when its hot, then after 10 seconds of runin like crap the idle levels out and runs fine.....weirdest crap ive ever seen

 

2 words...prom burning!!!

 

2 more words...different cam........

 

2 more....Niagara Falls

 

Just a thought but if you havent looked into it already,it could be a fuel system problem, injector going bad, a fuel filter clogging or fuel pump on its way out.
Good Luck!

 

i had a friend write me a prom for the lt1 swap heh

 

Put the stock PROM back in and re-test.

 

started this with the stock one, and does it with the custom one too heh..so the closer i get my car to 0 ...the worse it runs/backfires out the pipes.....at 6 , it ran good but would pop after getting on it.....any suggestions?? 8?? 10?? lol

 

8* or even 10*+ with the stock timing tables would probably be fine and I'd say even common for a TBI with a cam. There is hardly any timing in the stock TBI tables.

 

go ahead and advance it as much as it will hold.....just stay out of the "Ping" zone!
You may want to reset the valve lash....I would try it with the car running....loosen each till the clatter then tighten them down to quiet....do all 16 , turn the motor off, THEN set the preload 1/2 turn more..(RB suggest setting the preload AFTER shutting down the motor, to save time and mess) The white smoke out the TBI has me wondering if your valves are seating all the way.

 

odly enough....oil doesnt shoot out the push rods on the roller like it did on my 86 hydrualic engine, this isnt messy at all, just a PITA to get the cover off the pass side with all the smog crap still on.....so ....today i do half a turn , instead of the suggested 1/4 a turn like someone told me to do, ...perhaps this is the problem??? who knows....set the timing at 10, seems to like it there....no loud backfire after i get on it....lol @ easter falling under hitlers birthday and the national pot smokers day....thougt id throw that out there...i found it amusing

 

4/20 ..let me know if it helps..not the weed...the lash readjustment!!!

 

BLAH....ok at 6-8-10 degree advances, ...when i get on the gas and run through 2nd then shift....POP loud *** backfire through the tail pipes, ....any suggestions as to where to set it now???

 

are you getting any pinging/ detonation when you are getting on the gas?

 

define pinging?? its not really popping when i hit the gas, only when i let go and its reving down...its all pop pop pop pop....POP!!!! heh.....i can deal with the small pop, i even expect it due to no catalytic converter...but the LOUD pop has got to go, ...altho its fun scaring unsuspecting kids..

 

Re-check your plug wires. Trust me on this one, sounds like my first days as a "mechanic"

Plug wires 5 and 7 are really easy to get mixed up, the car will run and will be driveable, but will backfire like a mother, but not all the time. If the car does not feel as strong as before you installed the cam, that is definately it.

Before you say I checked the wires and re-checked tham and .....just check them again.

If they are right on 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, then you either have you valves set incorrectly or you set them to tight at first and bent a valve.

It's not that the valves are set too loose but too tight if it is backfiring. If they are loose enough to make noise they still won't backfire like a shotgun when you drive it.

EDIT: I ran 12 degrees of advance on a stock TBI cam with 1.6 rockers and a Hypertech chip. Run 12 degrees, you won't ping. You need more cylinder pressure because you lost a bit with the installation of the cam. You could probably even be safe with 14 degrees.

 

ok well. first valve adjustment, ...1/4 a turn after the clattering stopped, ...today i adjusted to half a turn --readjusted-- didnt just go all out and do 1/4 a turn without re adjusting....anyways, i odoubt i have a bent valve, ... i dont think 1/4 a turn will bend it, ...maybe one FULL turn...but then again, i could be wrong.....lol ive checked the plug wires 10 times, ...but ill do it tomarrow one more time.....and ill advance my timing to 12.....dont say i have a bent valve that scares me......what are other charactoristics of a bent valve??

 

I must say...your posts are entertaining!!!

Listen to 330hp_91RS....Im laughing to hard to type!!

 

What may I ask is so funny there Riley?


Anyway, SlowMaro, I had a bent valve on one of my Vortec heads that I had to get replaced, it would backfire preety bad, sometimes thru the intake and at night once in a while you could see a flame when you heard the backfire. I had everything right and my timing was fine, My dad's mechanic ( Best Mechanic I have ever seen) checked it out down at my dad's shop and came up with a dead cylinder which ended up having a bent valve, I fixed it, no backfires, nothing just clean power.

 

Riley here thinks I know nothing about TBI's and timing and that 12 degrees will make you ping. Is that right Riley? Well then, you just keep your timing at 6 degrees and have a good time. I ran 14's with my LO3 and a stock intake and Stock cam. Even when I bought the car the owner bumped the timing to 10*.

Keep laughing, you'd be laughing pretty hard if I caught you at a stoplight, I guarantee that.

 

ok, simmer down children, we all know every engine is different from the other due to wear and tear, climate conditions, etc etc. i was just trying to figure out what was an all around safe advance ....i still vote on my timing being off, ..i didnt really put my engine in a position to bend a valve, it runs too good...well as good as 130k will allow a L03 to run lmao

 

I am having a similar prob to slowmaro.


I just did a cam,intake,and Carb swap.(this is on a 69 chevy truck)Comp cams 270h,edelbrock performer rpm.edelbrock 600 cfm carb.


To adjust the valves the I turned the motor over till till both the intake and exhaust valves where closed on the cylinder I was adjusting.Then I tightened them down til I couldn't turn the pushrods anymore.Then another 1/4 turn.


The truck will run.It takes a while to start.And once it is startedhas lots of white smoking coming out of the carb.The timing is way advanced.When I try to get it close the motor cuts out and dies.When I say way advanced I mean 3 inches from even being on the timing tab advanced.


Please help before I push it into the river!

 

uh oh, sounds like mt previous timing problem that took me 3 days and 20 people getting mad at me for not understanding lol....so heres what ya do, take out the #1 plug, and the driver side valve cover, ...take out the dist....bump the engine over , go look at the harmonic balancer and see where the line is, ...keep doing that til the line is on 0 on the timing tab, look at the valves on the #1 cyl, they should be closed, ..now, ....stick a screwdriver in the #1 plug hole, if it goes in 1/2 an inch and hits the piston, you are good, ...put the dist back in facing the #1 plug position --about 5 oclock if you are facing the engine-- .....DONT LEAVE the screwdriver in the #1 PLUG HOLE!!!< just use it as a probe, see if the piston is up, and take it back out.....if it still doesnt run right, ....repeat these steps a few times and itll work out.....i feel your pain, i went through it for AWHILE before i got it right.....

 

330hp_91RS im pretty sure Riley's35089rs+ was sayin that the backfire scarin kids was funny n that u were right.. maybe im readin it wrong..

 

Slowmaro And I have been corisponding(sp ) here on the board, and through instant messenger since he started this adventure....he has a great sence of humor.. areal likeable fella!
330hp_91RS..I actually think you may know more than myself about his problem...Ive exhausted all my suggestions fuel injection is not my thing Ive learned a little since I got the 4rth gen..but...and yes I have scared / been scared by backfires..LOL absollutly nothing against you..its hard to tell sometimes just by reading and writing..I'm sorry you were offended..I had no intention of offending....

 

Now that I doubt...either one of my cars would spank you!!!

Well I guess I would have to get the 89 back together first... ..LOL

 

heh id beat ya all at the stop light, cause chances are, ..i wouldnt see it being red and just keep on going lmao, ...by the way, .if anyone cares to know, ..my whole *ran perfect from a cold start but would mess up for ten seconds after a hot start up"....it was my VALVES!!!! somehow, readjusting to 1/2 a turn after lash instead of 1/4 fixed it, ..i dunno how or why, i actually had no intentions on that actually fixing the problem, i did it just to do it for the hell of it, and accidently fixed it lmao....two thumbs up for fixing crap and not knowing ya did....now, if only i can get it to stop backfiring, ...ive tried, 2-4-6-8-10-12, all gaveme a backfire, ...maybe throughout all this i fouled a plug somehow....ah well im setting it at 8 and leaving it, ....i can live with the shot gun effect heheh

 

I know this is pointed at 330hp_rs, but my 305 TBI has two 9.3 1/8 mile timeslips and 3 or 4 9.4 1/8 slips as well. Bone stock LT1s are nothing special.


For slowmaro, I know my car will start "popping" when I let off the gas, when I had the timing around 0 or -2 (after), normally run at 6-8* BTDC. Keep advancing until it pings or get the chip done right. I had a friend with a TBI with 14 or 16* after cam swap and stock chip. I'm saying I still think you need more timing.

 

Well I pulled the driver side valve cover off.Found the #5 cylinder to have a bent pushrod and the rocker sideways on the exhaust side.


I couldn't figure out why.Until I tried to put a new pushrod in.Then i saw that the slightly longer intake bolt was stopping the pushrod from moving.So I shortened the bolt up.But now I think the lifter came out of it's bore.So I got to pull the intake again tommorow.


Also it has white smoke out the exhaust when you give it some gas.(I discovered this before the bet pushrod)Is white smoke oil buring or what.Thanks.

 

the special part is it is BONE STOCK!!..those times were on a 40* night absolutely no traction ......alomst lost it on the 1-2 shift.. Opti went to crap the next day...anyway , I love my 4rth gen Almost as much as the 89..the 94 is the "wifes car.........and yes , they are both special,,thats why I have worked my *** off to be able to own them ,,,and studied my *** off to be able to maintain them.....

 

well, it pops less at 8 than anywhere else, ive advaced to 14 and it still pops once loudly after i let off the gas in a high rev.....the chip was made by someone who only makes 89-92 tbi chips, i trust that the guy made it accordingly...i told him all the mods that was done to the car and he went to work, even though we all know the exact precise way to program a prom is to slap a lap top in there and get all the variables, and burn proms until its flawless....but hey, ..the guy lives too far away lol...ill just keep playing with the timing til it stops....and if all else fails ill stick the stock chip in and see if it backfires still, .....is there ever a need to rtard the timing instead of constantly advancing???

 

Try the stock chip with the timing advanced.

With the custom chip, did he tell you where to set the timing? Send him an e-mail.

 

doh....good call, he takes forever to reply though, about a week, ....so in that amount of time, i will have set my timing at every possible point lmao

 

So, uh, how sure are you the cam is installed right? Evil question to ask but it's the next step for ya. A few deg of ignition timing doesn't account for the symptoms you're seeing.

What brand of timing gears/chain did you use? Was it one of the fancy 3-way sets that can do 4deg advanced, 4deg retarded, and straight up? If so, which way did you go?

When you checked the index marks on the cam and crank gears, how were they aligned...where was the cam mark, where was the crank mark?

 

99.8% positive that its in right, i used the stock gears and i made SURE that the dots were like : <---that a tooth left or right of that would have ben completly noticable, ..the dowel pin on the cam that goes into the cam sprocket or whatever pointed to 3 oclock, im sure thats right....

 

ok well, i took my car for a 30 min test drive today.....got on the gas heavily a few times, ...no more loud backfire, just the usual low pitched pop pop pop pop pop......i still think its funny that i replaced my whole ignition system and 15 sensors , hoses, checked everything for a week straight, and the reason my car was running rough for ten seconds at a hot start up, ..was...the...VALVES!!! who knew!! but for now, all is running good and i hope the backfire stays away from me!!! i do belive,...its time......for the happy dance,. ..yes folks....the happy dance :lala: :lala: :lala: :rockon:

 

I knew..1/2 turn..Because RB says sooooo......

 

 

damn damn damn DAMN....thought i had the timing prfect, ..itll only backfire after a high rev 60-100mph run on the highway...let off the gas POP...loud as hell....other than that , its perfect, doesnt do it on high 0-60 mph revs ...--when i say rev i mean from 2k to 5500k-- long revs i guess is what i mean....timing is set at 8, any more or less itll backfire more....so im going to advance it 1 single degree i guess.....or should i retard it to 7....glad im not paying a mechanic to do this, id be BROKE.....

 

Maybe if you paid a mechanic ..it would be fixed by now....