Ok, my car needs a new one before I can go anywhere. The drain hole is stripped, and also bent so even when I got a self threading bolt in there, it still doesn't have a good seal and leaks slowly but surely. I don't want to drive sans oil, nor do I feel like paying to have it towed, so I want to try and get the job done in my driveway. I've heard conflicting stories as to how difficult it is to change. One guy told me it could be done in a couple hours tops. I've also heard from someone else, that you have to lift the engine to change it in a thirdgen. Can somebody who's done this give me some info? Also, where is the best place to get a new pan? Dealers have them for about $135. I can get one for $25 at the junkyard, but I'd prefer a new one for a better price. Any info would be appreciated....

 

Stick with the one from the junkyard. Degrease it with Gunk, Simplegreen or a similar substitute. Take out your trusty drillmotor and a wire wheel. In about 20/30 minutes you will have a pan ready to paint the same color as your engine. The one from the dealer will be gloss black anyway. Used pan + a little elbow grease + paint = new looking pan at 1/4 the cost. Use that extra money for something else. Good luck on the install. I've never changed a pan in a Third Gen with the engine still in the car. I wish I could help you with some advice.

 

After just rebuilding my engine and putting it back in, I would say you will have to lift the engine up. Not out. Just up about 3-4 inches. Use a cherry picker or even a bottle jack. Just unbolt the motor mounts and lift the front of the engine. Prolly have to Jack on the Harmonic balancer. Then use a rubber gasket and some black RTV. Put the RTV on the pan then gasket on top of the RTV then bolt the pan up. FOLLOW THE RECCOMENDED TORQUE SPECS!!! Don't torque it down till you pop a vein in your forehead. It will leak. The front and rear bolts have a different torqe spec than the ones on the side. Chitlons has the specs if you can't find it I'll look it up for you. Good luck man!

Later,
Lars

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'92 RS 305 TBI
K&N Open Element
Ultimate TBI mod's (thanks Pablo)
Cam[.442"/.465" x 218*/224* @ .050", 10:1 Hypereutectic Pistons
Performer Manifold
Shift Kit, Corvette servo,
and 2800 Stall Trans Specialties Converter,
Gutted Cat, IAT Resistor
MSD Blaster Coil, Accel Cap and Rotor

 

i have attempted to change the rear main seal and oil pan gasket on my 87 iroc. didnt get either one done. my repair manual says to lift it up about 3 inches so i lifted the motor up and stuck some 3 inch blocks under it. still wasnt high enough to get it off. i had it up as high as i could get it until the tranny prevented me from going any higher and still didnt get it off. then i just gave up. it might work to put a jack under the tranny and try to get it up even instead of an angle from just lifting on the motor. could probably get about an inch higher which should be enough. maybe someone else has actually gotten one off and will have a better idea. good luck.

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87 Iroc-z and a 77 camaro currently being restored
http://satanzchild.isonfire.com

 

Shadowchild: Isn't your rear main on that a one piece seal??

You just pull the trans out and remove flexplate, put in new seal.

As far as getting a pan out in chassis, I imagine if you got it high enough it would go.

I've always pulled the motor. To me its easier. (thats how I got my nickname )

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

RTKTGTR 1999 NBM T/A, flowmaster,FRA,Pro Kit,BMR STB, polished calipers.
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up,flowmasters,4.10s,
1981 corvette FOR SALE
1995 ZX6R,Yosh,D207s

GO #3

 

yes it is a 1 piece. figured while i was ripping all this stuff off might as well do the oil pan gasket. couldnt get the top bolts out of the tranny either. how the heck do you get those out?

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87 Iroc-z and a 77 camaro currently being restored
http://satanzchild.isonfire.com