just got my block(350 casting number 3970010 4 bolt main) from the machine shop, got all the plug in, cam bearing install, bored 30 and over, honed with torque plates. people think i am crazy because i am holding a big chunk of metal and smiling(the block is pretty heavy, i guess all those time at the gym finally pay off ). The first problem i ran into is how in the world am i going to get the block on to the engine stand? is there a bolt kits they sell? i am sitting there screaching my head... all those book like "how to rebild your chevy small block", "john linegenfelter on small block", "chilton's manual" has nothing on this basic procedure. I seach the web and found couple picture with the engine on the stand but the angle doesn't allow me to see what's goes on... am i the world's biggest idiot? this is just upsetting, after all these money, time, i can't even get the engine block to the engine stand. please help... and since i am asking question what's you guys's opinion on cam and lifter, the machine shop insisted on the solid cam is better and will make more power. so i am think about solid roller lifter... the engine combo is of the following 350 block, scat 3.75 stroked crankshaft, no name 4340 6in. rod, kb flat top piston, dart iron eagle head 200cc intake runner 64cc c.chamber, it should yield close to 10:1 cr. i am trying to mimic david Vizard no.8 engine in his "max performance chevy small block on a budget" suggestion are welcome on cam and lifter

thanks in advance

David ****

 

Go to the hardware store and get LONG bolts (grade 8 if you can find them)

Than just bolt the engine to the stand usuing the bell housing pattern.

The engine stand back adjusts to fit any engine.



------------------
ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

RTKTGTR 1999 NBM T/A, flowmaster,FRA,Pro Kit,BMR STB, polished calipers.
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up,flowmasters,4.10s,
1981 corvette FOR SALE
1995 ZX6R,Yosh,D207s

GO #3

 

Yup, measure how long you want them to be first. It seems like 3.5" is right but it depends on your stand. Also buy some nice fender washers to help keep the bolts from pulling through the stand or damaging the block a little.

 

I think I understand your question differently than the others??......but you need a chain hoist (come-a-long would work in a pinch, but I don't advocate it's use), also the stand bolts to the bell housing holes..

I try to use only the highest, top holes , they take all the wieght.

,><>><><><><><

Dang, almost forgot the most important part....pull the fixture out of the stand, bolt it to the motor, then you only have one large hole to line up.

[This message has been edited by 8Mike9 (edited July 25, 2000).]

 

I have a 750lb capacity 4-caster engine stand with a 305 longblock on it using 3.5" grade 5 bolts and washers in the 4 outer/top bellhousing mount holes. Is it normal for the engine to be at a relatively "sagging" downward position? It just looks like it could fall off the stand at any moment.

Another strange thing is that when I pull the pin, I can't rotate the engine using the t-handle. Is this normal?

[This message has been edited by Scott C (edited July 25, 2000).]

 

dwang,

Instead of a thousand words...



Later,
Vader

------------------
"Some Body...Someone"

 

Well he asked about a bolt kit or such so I think he was referring how to actually attach it. If I wrote a book about everything I know about engines it would make Lingenfelter's book look like a table of contents. They have to hit the highlights of what is important. If you are concerned about how to get the stand on while holding up the block here is how I do it. When I bring home a block its on a truck bed anyways. I take the rotating part of the stand out (very easy, just pull handle out and it comes right off) and bolt it to the block. Then I pick up the block and slide it in the stand. It is normal for the engine to tilt down some. Most stands tilt up a little, then under the weight they are closer to straight. There is no real bearing in there, so when the block binds the pipe it doesn't like the spin. With an engine on there I usually stand on a leg of the engine stand and put some mojo on the lever. One time after a good bit of rain I actually used an engine hoist to help rotate around a fully assembled all iron big block. This was a bit dangerous so I got out of the way and straped it on good enough that if the stand tipped over the hoist would hold the engine up.

 

much thanks to all. i wish i am more knowledgeable and be able to share it with the fellow enthusists, but i got much much to learn. thanks again for not laughting at my stupid question.
i will get some bolt tomorrow, and hopefully to get the short block done by end of august.

dw

 

Everyone had to start out knowing nothing, it is just a matter of how many people remember that they once knew nothing. I am sure you will be able to share some info before long, so many questions go through here I am sure something will pop up that you know about. Oh, and I realized you asked for a little help on the cam as well. Right now I am pretty impressed with Comp Cams Xtreme Energy line. I am sure there are other good cams, but these seem to have closed some of the gap between mechanical and hydraulic cams performance wise. You have fairly big heads for a street engine, so they will want a bigger cam but we wouldn't want to get out of control killing its street manners. The 10:1 CR will help out. I would recommend their XE274 cam. It has a 230/236 degree split profile. On a 383 with those heads it will not have the best manners below 2500RPM and idle vacuum will be borderline for power brakes. It would be a good idea to run a vacuum canister with this engine. Their part number for it is 12-246-3. Any major parts house should be able to hook you up with this cam and lifter set. They have a smaller XE268 cam that will help improve driveability, and would not be a bad match but I feel the previously mentioned cam would work a little better. If you are new to performance engines and how fussy they can get with big cams then maybe you should opt for the smaller size. Either cam should have you well in to the 400HP range.

One other side note. You mentioned Keith Black pistons. I have ran these pistons and know others that have. Aside from a couple of internet people I have never met anybody that liked them. They rattle real easy, so make sure the piston-bore clearance is perfect. They are poorly designed and will shatter very easily with detonation. When using them follow their ring gap specifications for the most part. For the top ring I would go even higher than what they recommend, like .036"-.040" end gap. If this gap is too small the rings will butt and knock the tops off the pistons. With a 10:1 engine it will be your mission in life to keep the ingition system dialed in right to eliminate detonation completely. If you treat the pistons well they will hold up ok, but if you treat regular cast pistons right they will hold up too. David Vizard is a big fan of the hypereutectic piston, which in theory is a very good idea. In practice the results seem to be marginally better than cast pistons, at best.

[This message has been edited by Dr. Pepper (edited July 26, 2000).]

 

went to couple hardware store, and seems no one carry grade 8 bolt. fyi the bolt size that will fit the bell housing is

3/8(diameter) 16(thread per inches) 3.5(length that suit your engine stand)

the block is on the stand and hopefully i did it right(i got some fender washer), it just worry me 4 little grade 5 bolt is holding the weight of the block. the block is sagging a little bit. (i think 3 inch bolt will be perfect) i can rotate it freely, i am ready to put the main bearing in and test fit the stroker crankshaft. to you engine guru this is nothing, but to me it is a giant step.

dw

 

Dwang: if you are worried about the bolt strength, grab the yellow pages. Look under Fasteners, or Fastener Suppliers. In the manufacturing industry we often have to purchase all sorts of odd sized grade 8 (or higher) bolts for machinery assembly needs, and one thing I've learned is that these specialty shops are gold mines for car buffs. Call a few of them to find out what they can get for pricing. Tell them you need four 3/8 - 16 grade 8 bolts (or whatever they are), they will sell you exactly what you need.

Also, for those who like to polish their motors (me, me, me!), these same shops also market stainless steel socket head cap screws which polish up real nice on an intake manifold. Stainless is more expensive, but shore looks purdy on a motor.

BTW: Don't use stainless on applications where strength is critical. It's not as strong as a grade 8 bolt.