Right now I am happy as a " pig in Shlt!!!"..My engine came today, I took the afternoon of and proceeded to "look" At it..pulleds the rusty "RHS" valve covers..anyone know this builder? Penn State.. beautiful !!! Comp cam 1.52 roller rockers..guideplates and screwin studs..not a spec of rust! A big W on the heads...Ill run the #s later....turned her over..pulled the pan..TRW forged ,,pistons..020 over.406?.do you measure the rodscenter of pin to center of crank..if so 6": forged...>.o2 over.. GM crank markes .010..Looks steel ? Ill give you the #,s later..The cam is crane,,supposed to be ,560 lift..Im pulling it to run the #s..the crank had somw welding on the weight..balanced? I'm a little excited right now and a little Drunk..thankyou Jim Beam..:hail: ..hurt my back rolling the engine on the stand...the flywheel was manual about 1/2 inch thick!...anyone need it? I'm going auto ..( th400)...anyway Cheers!!!!! I'll get some pics up..and a TON of ??? PS. 2 bolt....flawless cylinders......

 

RHS = Racing Head Service. IF memory serves me correctly, I think they were / are located in Memphis, TN. They are better known as Comp Cams.

Steve

 

Well, Thats who built this motor. It was built in 92. The guy said he had $7000 in it at that time...now I believe him.
Here is a question..It has a Holley Contender intake. The motor has been in storage for 3yrs..the inside of the intake is rusty colored....how do I clean it up?

 

Extrude hone?

 

the welding on the crank weights is probably from heavy metal balancing, it needs to be done to convert a 400cid (or other large stroke) crank to internal balance, are the welds on the sides of the weights? (i.e., is a slug of metal inserted front to back in the weight?), if so, it is the strongest way to install the heavy metal slugs

 

yeah well you've got better luck then i have. I bought this brand new rebuilt 350 and basically its a mess. Most of the damage came from R&L shipping because the shortblock was somehow switched onto a different crate where it was just lying on it with the bottom end sticking out of the wrapping. there was DIRT IN THE CYLINDERS!!!!!!! Rust started to form on the cylinder walls and can actually feel it with my fingers no just surface rust. What a big mess basically i don't want the thing. Im trying to file a claim through RL Shipping cause they messed but the packaging it was supposed to be in.

 

how it was when i came home before i unwrapped it. nobody was here to sign for it.

 

dirt or gravel in the cylinders

 

rust on the cylinder walls

 

OMFG!! Im sorry to see that!..Mine came on a motor stand..on a pallet..in a box built around the pallet. He did a very good job of prep work for storage..everything was nice and oily. I would for sure go after somebody! I bought an optispark for my 94 LT1 off ebay, and after all the work of the install, it was bad. I contacted the fella...and what he said was ..obviously I dont know how e-bay works....no refunds..... what a butthead! People like that give e-bay a bad name.

 

HUH!!!

 

see mine was orignally packaged in a motor stand on a pallet when it was shipped to fed ex. this is when something gets delayed and the guy i bought it from made an arrangement to have RL pick it up from fed ex. between the time the guy shipped it out and i recieved it it switched crates. I got a big mess in front of me i am so pissed off

 

I would be too..Go after the freight company..you and the seller! I think they have some explaining to do here. IMHO they are responsible if they changed the packaging..as far as the rust...how long between shipping and receiving?

 

it was shipped on 4-16-03 through fed ex. fed ex's freight department got behind so the seller had R&L pick it up. I recieved the shortblock yesterday 5-2-03. I never recieved a bill of landing from R&L or signed for it because i was not home. I don't know who to go after RL or fed ex but im thinkin it was RL fault for messin with the crate. I just hope i can get my money back.

 

Well I think a refund on shipping cost is at least in order..but dont expect it to happen fast. There is a lot of red tape to go through. But dont let it slide! Go after it. At least get an explanation why the packaging was changed..the block doesnt look that bad..I think the cylinders were only honed, not bored, you can see some scoring.. some wd-40 may remove a lot of that rust. The dirt is easy to blow out. You may want to get it honed again. A machinest can tell you how much wear there is in the cylinders..anything over .060 I would have it bored....but with new rings (wich you have) you could get by. Honing runs about $40....I paid 235.00 to have my 327 block Machined..crank turned...cam bearings...frost plugs..tanked..checked. As long as the block isnt cracked..you still have the start of a great motor. Just curious, how much you pay for the SB? All is not lost!

 

here is a pic of my honed 327. BTW its for sell!

 

its punched .040 over. the problem with the rust is that can feel it as run your finger over it. i tried some rust remover on it and knocked some of it off but some spots still feel rough. can i use something to scape it off with out marking up the walls to bad? I paid a little over a grand for it for a basic rebuild with cam. i should have done a little better shopping around but oh well

 

thats not a bad price.....I'm not sure what you should use in the cylinder...what I would do is shoot Ede a pm and ask him..He may be a little rough sometimes, but, he knows a lot about machining and shortblock assembly.
anyway, we will go back ttt and see if anyone else can help out. I know just about everywhere else you can use a wire wheel on a drill, I just dont want to give you bad info. ( Emery cloth?)

 

I've got a 350 block in my basement that I bought for $20. It's been bored .030" over, and is totally infested with rust.

Do the WD-40 thing, it works.

I sprayed the cylinders with a real heavy coat, once a day for 3 days, wiping it down between each coat.

After the third day I wiped it down, sprayed it, then used a brass wire hand brush (not one for a drill) and all the rust is now gone.

That should do it. When you're done make sure you clean the engine block off THOROUGHLY!!!!, then hit all the machined surfaces with a very light coat of WD-40 again. Just coat the cylinder walls with motor oil.

BTW, I'd still pitch a bitch if I were you.

 

Yeah, wd-40 worked for me too.....without a coat of oil you would be amazed how fast the machined surface will start to rust...that is why it is recomended to have the boring/honing done when you are ready to assemble the block...have all your parts ready to go in first.

 

something else i noticed today to was this hole here. doesn't look like its supposed to be here. it comes out around where the oil pan would sit

 

were it goes through

 

I really cant tell from your pics..I have not a clue!.Front or Rear of the block?

 

Mine has that also. It's not that large, but it's there.

Riley, that's the front of the block on the right side, about 1" from the timing cover mounting surface.

 

Extrude honing is basically shoving an abrasive material (paste?) through the passageways to smooth them.