I have seen several post with similar problems, car overheats after intake swap. Now my problem is that when I start the car the temp gauge goes from being dead cold to over past 260 degrees in a mater of minutes. I pulled intake off and cleaned since oil had settled at top, I also installed a CRANE AFPR. used the FEL-PRO MS93035. My gasket do have the cut off on the last port unlike a post that I read where it only had a small hole. I set #1 at TDC and installed the distributor and have the the PF at 42 psi. I have a 180 stat with two drilled holes, manualy running both fans, the card idles at about 1200. I removed the stat and still over heated. Oh yea withing minutes (about 2min) not only does the gauge read past 260 degrees but the headers are extremely hot and so are the plug wires. Needs some help could it be a gasket leak? The water ports furthest to the left, (PIC in previous post).[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Ronnie Rodriguez\My Documents\My Pictures\felpro gaskets.jpg[/IMG]
has port coverd with a small hole, mine has the cut out (PIC from Summit)[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Ronnie Rodriguez\My Documents\My Pictures\fel-ms90351.jpg[/IMG] and that port had junk when removed intake and cleaned off. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

 

First Pic with blocked passage

 

Second Pic, with cut out passage

 

Ugg... I feel for 'ya when it comes to the overheating problems. I bet you ran across my posts several times when doing the search--I see you found my picture!

Sounds a lot like the symptoms I was experiencing. Of course, I didn't start having the problems until after a LONG rebuild, so there's a heck of a lot more variables there. It seems like you, however, just started experiencing these problems after you changed your intake, so hopefully that rules a lot of things out that I had to deal with.

In your case, there would be three potential things that I would be concerned with. First off, you want to make make sure that you aren't leaking coolant either externally OR internally. Obviously, to check for external leakage, just look around the front and back of where the intake manifold meets with the block. The bigger problem would be if it was leaking internally, which could cause the overheating if the coolant is mixing with engine oil (which it certainly would if coolant was leaking internally into the lifter valley). It might not hurt, then, just to let some oil out of the oil pan just to make sure that it doesn't look like chocolate milk.

The other possibility could be that gaskets aren't getting a good seal around the intake ports (for whatever reason--mabye a warped intake). In this case, you would be experiencing a large vacuum leak, which could also cause overheating. As far as actually finding if you have a vacuum leak... I hear that you can get some propane and go around the suspect places. If the idle picks up, you have a vacuum leak. Don't quote me on that, though--I've never tried it.

You also want to make sure that you put the gaskets in correctly and that they're not flipped. They look symmetrical, but the EGR ports won't line up correctly if a gasket has been flipped.

 

You can't link a picture off of your hard drive.

Idling at 1200 is a problem.

Did you start the car with the radiator cap off and top the radiator off with it running? I suspect you may have some air pockets. Make sure the timing is set to stock specs, and the fuel pressure too.

 

Yep, probably have an air slug stuck in the engine somewhere. Try taking the thermostat out and run the engine till it warms up good and see if it overheats. If not, put the thermostat back in and top off the radiator/ overflow bottle after it all cools off.

 

Play with the fuel pressure. I had the same problem after I built my stroker, and I had too much fuel at 45 psi ( I know it sounds weird). The headers were glowing, so I turned it down to 38 psi, and it ran cool as ever.

As Rezin said also, it shouldn't idle at 1,200, it should be more around 600 to 750.

 

I have tried removing the thermostat, no luck. I have also adjusted the timing, no luck. There is no coolant leak externally, as far as internaly, I have not checked the oil. Do not plan to change the oil until I get it running again. Since I think that I have tried everything externaly (I hope), I have removed the intake and everything looks fine, I didnt notice any coolant in the oil on top from removing the intake. I am going to re assemble the intake with new gaskets. Anything special that I should be looking for or doing while doing that? Should I use the black or the blue sealant? Thanks for all the help.

 

Use the Ultra Black RTV from Permatex, I've never gotten the blue to do anything but leak.

 

I always use the high temp red rtv and let it cure for a day or 2. Never had any leaks yet!

 

Did you read this thread? It's basically what Morley said above.

 

Re-install the thermostat. Remove the radiator cap while the engine is cool. Start engine and add coolant as needed. Leave the cap off till the engine is at operating temp. This is noted when you can see a steady flow of coolant in the radiator. Top off coolant and close cap. Continue to run engine to see if it still overheats. If it doesn't you're done.

This method is to allow all trapped air to escape after major engine work is done. Trapped air always causes the engine to heat up very quickly and overheat.

 

I still say try adjusting your afpr. If an air bubble is trapped, it takes a little longer to heat up to 260 than what you're saying.

 

I have now put back the intake with new gaskets. Put the 180 stat in boiling water to see if it was opening, It is. Set #1 At TDC and droped the distributor, (supposed to be stock timing). I only tighten the screw on the Crane AFPR til I felt tension, (according to the manual, stock pressure), Started the car and added water as the level went down, and closed the cap. Car did not hesitate to start but it did idle at about 1500 RMP's. and this time it took about 3 minutes to get to 260 degrees. Any suggestions of what else it could be? Should I advance or retard timing ? If so how much? Should I test compression, would that be the problem?
Thaks For The Help.

 

You need to set the timing with the est wire disconnected and use a timing light, set it to 6* BTDC. Also it sounds like you need to set the minimum air and possibly clean the IAC and passages.

 

You closed the radiator cap too early. Just leave it off and see if she gets too hot.

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If not, get one! You can't judge fuel pressure by the tension caused by tightening down the screw. Get the Accel gauge that mounts on the fuel rail (schrader valve), that way you can adjust the pressure while it's running to be certain you have the correct pressure. Plus, if your tightening the screw in a clockwise rotation, that adds fuel. If you loosen it, it takes it away. Once again, if you have too much (rich) or not enough (lean) fuel, your headers will glow and the engine will heat up real fast.

The other guys are right, timing should be 6 to 8 degrees advanced, with the EST disconnected, and the cap should be left off of the radiator until you don't see anymore bubbles coming out. Let us know how you make out.