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A few Questions on Distributor tuning.....

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Old May 7, 2003 | 07:44 PM
  #1  
330hp_91RS's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
A few Questions on Distributor tuning.....

I just got a rebuilt distributor for my L69 becuase the old one began to leak oil up into the module area.

1st: Regarding the setup on my 84', what kind of TOTAL timing do I want? I hear 45-55 degrees, but that is pretty broad.

2nd: ALL HEI's have 20 degrees of mechanical advance, right?

3rd: The # on the VAC advance canister is the # of degrees the canister gives, right?

4th: What should I do about setting base timing when changing advance springs? I.E. if I set the base timing with the stock springs on to 14-16 degrees, then I change to my lighter springs, even at 700-800 rpm I get like 20-24 degrees ( can't tell by eyeballing)

Should I set it with the stock springs or the advance springs to 14-16? I set it with the stock springs in my old dist, and that worked best, but the canister gave 12 degrees of advance rather than 20 like my new one. I can't just swap canisters cause I gave the old one for a core.

I am planning on getting an adjustable Vacuum canister soon.
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Old May 8, 2003 | 01:07 AM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Not all have 20 degrees. You have to find out what yours is specifically.

But...

Total mechanical is king. Without the vacuum hooked up, 36-38 is typically all a SBC will want/need. Vacuum advance should be adjusted after that to avoid ping at mid-RPM, high-load cruise conditions.

You really need an advance timing light, or timing tape on the balancer. Guessing just doesn't cut it, unless the distributor is set up on a distributor machine so you know the total mechanical advance and when it is all in, and can set the initial timing at idle.

If you have an advance timing light or timing tape, the easiest way to adjust total mechanical is to remove the springs and start the car up. The weights will advance full at idle, and you can set it without reving the engine up (disconnect vacuum first, of course).

As long as it starts without kick-back, and/or doesn't ping at partial throttle, the initial advance doesn't make much difference.

Last edited by five7kid; May 8, 2003 at 01:10 AM.
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Old May 8, 2003 | 10:34 AM
  #3  
ME Leigh's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,852
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Here you go:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/43300/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24878/
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